New 8N update

[badams215236]

I Got the opportunity to get some better pictures of my tractor over the weekend and thought i would share them.

I got some time to start cleaning her up over the weekend. I have only 2 small leaks, one at the governor oil line that won't quit even after tightening ( i suspect i will need to replace the line). the other is from the infamous cotter pin. I need to check oil level yet and i maybe the result of loading it on to the trailer when i brought it home. One thing i found while pressure washing the tractor was a small brass plate attached to the block on the right side in-between the carb and the governor. I has a number stamped into it and the numbers are upside down. does anyone know what the numbers on this brass plate designate?

-Ben-

 

[HFJ]

hi ben. pretty sure the numbers on that tag are the carb's model number.

 

[HFJ]

oops, my bad. i missed the "attached to the block" part. disregard my previous comment.

 

[Roger in Iowa]

4 bolt steering box says it is an early 8N and the short oil filler says the engine is a little later and then front hubs says really
early as 9N.

 

[badams215236]

(quoted from post at 16:08:13 01/23/17) 4 bolt steering box says it is an early 8N and the short oil filler says the engine is a little later and then front hubs says really
early as 9N.

After quite a bit of digging, and with some info folks on this forum provided I have figured that it is a late 48-49. the steering sector, dash layout, and castings all point to this. the engine serial number says it was made in mid 1950 ( 8N-B casting mark on the block). when the engine was swapped it was converted from a side dizzy to a front mount. the hubs appear to be from an early ford auto. They are a one piece hub and drum. it is a bit of a frankentractor, however it was this way when the guy I bought it from got it and I like to think it adds to the story of the old girl. I am looking for a set of front hubs and rims to replace the car/truck parts though.

 

[badams215236]

Here is a picture of the inside of the hub

this is the brass tag I found on the right side of the block when I pressure washed it. it is upside down on the block.

 

[Royse]

I can't say for sure on the brass tag. Maybe an industrial or
marine application swap? Does it have the regular serial number?

Front hubs are easy to find. I have some if you are close.
Shipping would probably be a deal killer.
Kirk-NJ and probably others can tell you exactly what those
came off of. Seems like it was a 30's Ford Deluxe maybe?
I had those rims on my 2N also.

Was the close-up of the hub taken from the rear or front?

 

[maxwell99]

You will want to change all fluids unless the previous owner can assure you it has been done,

On the transmission fluid many of the old tractors weep some, hence drain is called a weep hole, be sure to keep it open and clean, you do not
want oil building up in clutch flywheel area and getting on the clutch,

I would change the transmission oil and keep it at the mid level mark on the dip stick, do not fill up to the top mark, will be plenty of oil and it
might not weep so much, always check oil level with lift arms in the down position,

Do the brakes work, tractor that will not run will normally not hurt you, but a tractor that will not stop can kill you,

 

[badams215236]

Royse, the engine does has the standard serial# here is the picture

the picture of the hub was take with my back to the rear tire. it is the right hub

 

[Phil N]

Those front brake drums are great for adding front wheel weights. Remove bearings and lay wheel, hub, and drum assembly flat. Drill some
holes from outside of brake drum and add bolts and nuts to act as rebar and fill with concrete. Trowl smooth and away from inner wheel
bearing. Works great.

 

[Ken(Ark)]

(quoted from post at 09:32:25 01/24/17) Those front brake drums are great for adding front wheel weights. Remove bearings and lay wheel, hub, and drum assembly flat. Drill some
holes from outside of brake drum and add bolts and nuts to act as rebar and fill with concrete. Trowl smooth and away from inner wheel
bearing. Works great.

Good idea , those front ends are a little light . I like those 16" wide tires better than the skinny 19" . Once it gets cleaned up and painted it will look like "Normal" .

 

[ArleninOr]

Ben, I have the front hubs but no wheels if interested.

 

[badams215236]

(quoted from post at 11:38:14 01/24/17) Ben, I have the front hubs but no wheels if interested.

I am interested, where are you located? I have found a guy not to far from me that has a "junkyard" of these tractors. He has hubs for $20 a side. seems like a good price. I bet shipping the hubs would cost that much.

 

[badams215236]

That does sound like a good idea. I don't have any real work to do with this tractor. I just have a affinity for old iron. I am looking to put the mechanicals back to the way ford did it, or as close as I can without spending 3 times what it is worth. I plan to run it in some parades when its done and dive it around the local area. there is just something about the sound of that flat head 4 chugging along that put a smile on my face.

 

[Copperhead don't play]

(reply to post at 22:08:13 01/23/17) [short oil filler says the engine is a little later]
Roger please tell us about the short oil filler
thanks,
Copperhead