New engine start up

When you start a fresh engine for the first time. Do you spin it over without spark plugs to build oil pressure?

I have the motor ready to fire, but have not finished the rear 1/2. No hydro pump or PTO shaft installed. If I run the motor with no tranny fluid, will it destroy the front bearing in the tranny?
Thank for any advise.
 
Touringsedan,Yes spin it over without spark plugs to build oil pressure before start up a squirt of oil in the plug holes won't hurt anything.You could block the clutch down to start it up but the transmission will probably still spin some,just oil the front bearing some with a squirt can and don't run it to long.Can't wait to hear it run huh!
 
I spun mine over with no plugs to build oil pressure. If you used assy grease in the bearing and insides of the engine, she will be ok until you are ready to start. I would not be in a rush to start the engine. I would not start it without oil in transmission.
 
Why not wait till you have it all done?

Then towing it in high gear for a short distance, without the fuel turned on, will work nicely.

Curious . . . did you use engine bearing assembly grease (Lubriplate) ?
 
Here's how I pre-lube an engine BEFORE startup... A clean garden sprayer devoted to the job, with engine oil in it, connected to the oil gauge port. (The sbc engine shown can also be primed with the oilpump drive adapter shown.)

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/N%20Ford/OilPrimer.jpg">

I wouldn't even consider running it with the transmission "dry", there's a whole lot of other parts, besides the front bearing, that will be running "dry".

Of course, for a short run you could put the tranny in gear (to stop the internals from being turned a bit by drag in the clutch and pilot bearing) and hold the clutch depressed.
 

Great idea on the pre lube. I guess I am getting anxious to hear it run, plus I figured if I had engine troubles I would find out before all the work was done. I will wait until it is complete before starting it. thanks guys
 
When you rebuild a engine, it should have been rebuilt with assembly lube or motor honey applied to all the bearing surfaces. This is to prevent a dry start.

Yes the bottle attached to the point where your oil sensor screws in is a excellent idea. Cheapest. Another item to use is a reciprocating type automotive type fuel pump. Or if you have it, a 12 volt water pump for a rv, please remember to purge the water with oil before feeding it into the engine.

If you do chose to spin over the engine? Make sure you have prefilled the oil filter.
 
I once had a old time mechanic tell me
that when he did a engine rebuild he would
take a 1/2 qt of Type F transmission fluid and add it to the fuel tank
it would add lube to the inner walls of the engine
he said he always had good luck in breaking in a engine.
 
(quoted from post at 07:26:58 06/25/16) I once had a old time mechanic tell me
that when he did a engine rebuild he would
take a 1/2 qt of Type F transmission fluid and add it to the fuel tank it would add lube to the inner walls of the engine
he said he always had good luck in breaking in a engine.

Sounds like he did good rebuilds.

As far as the rings and walls go, a certain amount of friction is not only acceptable but desirable for ring seating.

One company's SAE 30 [b:4a5c1d10bb]Break-in Oil[/b:4a5c1d10bb] has this to say about its product:
"Formulated without friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston ring seating in new and rebuilt high-performance and racing engines. Contains anti-wear additives to protect cam lobes, lifters and rockers during the critical break-in period when wear rates are highest, while INCREASED film strength protects rod and main bearings from damage."

I know that the tractor engine isn't a high performance or racing engine, but you get the point.

So in my opinion the ATF idea is a little overkill or even counter-productive.

T
 
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