Good Morning Guys and Gals,
I posted a message on Friday evening about having an issue getting a new aftermarket governor assembly to work on a 2N. I was able to get the new governor assembly to work 100%, however, I found some interesting things while troubleshooting.
First of all, the issue I was having was the throttle lever would move a total of 3 notches or so and I was at wide open throttle. The springs were all tight and bending the linkages would not have gotten me to where I needed to be. The issue seemed to be the arms free play. When the tractor was at idle the arms were as far forward as possible. When the throttle was applied, the whole arm assembly would move and would never have "tension" to apply the spring on the outside. So, the governor was basically non existent.
I installed the old governor housing and made sure it was within spec between the fork base and the C clip and ran the tractor. Tractor ran beautifully. Ok now the issue is definitely the new governor.
Next I took the "guts" of the old governor assembly and tried that in the new housing. The tractor ran away again. Ok the guts aren't the issue. So I started looking at the housing and the levers.
I first measured the thickness of the forks. On the old housing the thickness from the back of the fork that hits the back of the housing to the front that interfaces with the fork base on the shaft was .40". Then I measured the fork for the new assembly and it measured .38". Ok so after 67 years of running the old fork is still larger than the "new" fork. Now we are getting some where.
Now I wanted to measure the distance of the fork face to the base of the housing to measure the farthest travel of the fork in the two assemblies. From the face of the fork that interfaces the fork base to a straight edge on the base of the housing was 1.26" on the new assembly and the old housing was 1.11". So the old housing moved the fork closer to the fork base when it was rotating forward in the assembly.
This tells me that the play I was seeing when I was getting full throttle was the fork moving forward when the throttle was applied and it was not contacting the fork base "as soon" as it was in the old assembly. There was too much of a gap in my opinion.
Ok, so in order for this setup to work I needed to take the distance out of the new assembly by about .2 to .3 of an inch give or take. Now, what I did here might not be what some might do. And I hope that some of this information might help others to come up with a solution that will work for the masses. What I did to take up the slack was find a washer, a lock washer, that would fit over the hat and take up the slack. When the assembly was put back together the arms no longer had free play. When I rotated the arms from the front of the tractor toward the carburetor I hit resistance when the fork interfaced the washer almost immediately. My main fear was the washer would slide off or fall off and cause issues in the governor. But once I felt the slack was removed and realizing the shaft rests in a bushing on the back of the housing my fears were less. I know this would be considered a farmerized fix. Like I said, some may not like the exact fix, but hopefully we can develop shims for the fork base itself to make these assemblies that are out there work for all models of tractor whether it is a early 9n or an 8N.
Sorry for the long post, but I wasn't able to find a whole lot of info on getting these cookie cutter assemblies working and hopefully this will save someone some time and aggravation when trying to get the assembly to work. We used the tractor yesterday and it performed flawlessly. Thanks for reading and have a good week....
Kris A NC (now IN)
I posted a message on Friday evening about having an issue getting a new aftermarket governor assembly to work on a 2N. I was able to get the new governor assembly to work 100%, however, I found some interesting things while troubleshooting.
First of all, the issue I was having was the throttle lever would move a total of 3 notches or so and I was at wide open throttle. The springs were all tight and bending the linkages would not have gotten me to where I needed to be. The issue seemed to be the arms free play. When the tractor was at idle the arms were as far forward as possible. When the throttle was applied, the whole arm assembly would move and would never have "tension" to apply the spring on the outside. So, the governor was basically non existent.
I installed the old governor housing and made sure it was within spec between the fork base and the C clip and ran the tractor. Tractor ran beautifully. Ok now the issue is definitely the new governor.
Next I took the "guts" of the old governor assembly and tried that in the new housing. The tractor ran away again. Ok the guts aren't the issue. So I started looking at the housing and the levers.
I first measured the thickness of the forks. On the old housing the thickness from the back of the fork that hits the back of the housing to the front that interfaces with the fork base on the shaft was .40". Then I measured the fork for the new assembly and it measured .38". Ok so after 67 years of running the old fork is still larger than the "new" fork. Now we are getting some where.
Now I wanted to measure the distance of the fork face to the base of the housing to measure the farthest travel of the fork in the two assemblies. From the face of the fork that interfaces the fork base to a straight edge on the base of the housing was 1.26" on the new assembly and the old housing was 1.11". So the old housing moved the fork closer to the fork base when it was rotating forward in the assembly.
This tells me that the play I was seeing when I was getting full throttle was the fork moving forward when the throttle was applied and it was not contacting the fork base "as soon" as it was in the old assembly. There was too much of a gap in my opinion.
Ok, so in order for this setup to work I needed to take the distance out of the new assembly by about .2 to .3 of an inch give or take. Now, what I did here might not be what some might do. And I hope that some of this information might help others to come up with a solution that will work for the masses. What I did to take up the slack was find a washer, a lock washer, that would fit over the hat and take up the slack. When the assembly was put back together the arms no longer had free play. When I rotated the arms from the front of the tractor toward the carburetor I hit resistance when the fork interfaced the washer almost immediately. My main fear was the washer would slide off or fall off and cause issues in the governor. But once I felt the slack was removed and realizing the shaft rests in a bushing on the back of the housing my fears were less. I know this would be considered a farmerized fix. Like I said, some may not like the exact fix, but hopefully we can develop shims for the fork base itself to make these assemblies that are out there work for all models of tractor whether it is a early 9n or an 8N.
Sorry for the long post, but I wasn't able to find a whole lot of info on getting these cookie cutter assemblies working and hopefully this will save someone some time and aggravation when trying to get the assembly to work. We used the tractor yesterday and it performed flawlessly. Thanks for reading and have a good week....
Kris A NC (now IN)
