New Holland 6610S rear hood removal

[Bill Knecht]

Hi. I'm a relative newbie, having some minor experience on a MF135. Last fall I bought a 1997 F/NH 6610S with FEL at auction, stored it in a covered hay shed. Recently I went to start it up again, and was flabbergasted to find out that a raccoon had built a nest in the engine compartment, and utterly destroyed much of the wiring to the instrument panel. So, we're now in Fixit Mode.

My problem is that I can't figure out how to take off the rear hood. It's driving me crazy. I have the parts manual, the Clymer I&T shop manual, and the 700-pp OEM shop manual (#87032904) -- no help.

I've removed all the obvious external bolts on that hood, plus 4 more that are attached to the horizontal mounting frame sitting up underneath and inside the bottom of that hood near where the filled red arrow is in the picture. I unfastened the light-control switch, and the key-start switch, the instrument panel, and removed the fuel tank cap. In other words, I did everything a growed man otter.

The rear hood now moves up slightly at its front. But, it feels as if it's still glued down rock-solid at the back. Peering up from underneath, I simply can't see anything more obvious to unscrew. Is there some kind of trick to this? I'm at a complete dead end. I checked the latest YT posts, and the Archive for Ford stuff, but didn't see anything helpful.

 

[shaun wallace]

Remove the yoke, 2 bolts hold it or 2 nuts. Kill wire?

 

[Bern]

If you took off those 4 hidden bolts in the back, it should come right off. I can't think of anything else holding it on.

 

[Jerry/MT]

what about the fuel cut-off?

 

[Destroked 450]

I don't know of anything extra holding a S model tank shroud
There's 4 bolts in the front, 2 on the right side, one on the left and one in the top center.
There's two on each side in the back were you indicated

 

[Bill Knecht]

Thanks for the input, guys. I appreciate it. There's a spot on the wall where I've been bangin' my head!

I'm unsure about a kill switch or fuel cutoff. Will check the parts manual.

The 4WD selector switch and horn switch are still in place, because I couldn't see any obvious way to unhook them, and I
figured they probably have enough wire to let the hood rotate up, and then remove them from the back. I read that the 4WD
switch has tabs that have to be pushed in, and I assume that's done from the back. But, those shouldn't impede the basic
removal, and it's not a question of the hood moving up and then getting hung; it feels loose at the front and then as if it
were bolted down at the back.

Peering up from underneath, I can see two bolts at the very front of what the parts catalog calls the Support (page 14A02,
part #16, E8TZ3Q540AA, in green box where arrow points). Do you think maybe they need to be unscrewed? I can't see how they
actually attach to the hood itself. But, maybe I should try? What do you think?


Any chance there's gremlins in there, having a good laugh at my expense?

 

[shaun wallace]

There is 2 bolts on each side plus 2 nuts in middle. Thats what I called yoke. Usually take the nuts off and will let it come off. Have 3400 I get to do steering shaft seal every couple years. Owner lets set to much. Have to take all bolts to get rear hood off.

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

Yes those two bolts, one on each side of item 16 need to be removed. Then remove the fuel cap and lift the front up just enough to clear the tank neck. Then lift the cover upward front and back to clear steering shaft.

 

[Bill Knecht]

Victory seems nigh. I removed two 1/2 nuts attached to VERTICAL bolts in the very middle part of that yoke (E8TZ3Q540AA), and that's when the rear hood finally freed up at its rear.

Right now the hood is still hung up on those two switches (horn and 4WD switch). The horn switch should be easy because it just has two connectors that can probably be pulled off. I just want to label them before doing that, since there are going to be a lot of loose wires in there pretty soon.

The 4WD switch seems to have a wiring harness connector going to it, which would make engineering sense. I tried feeling for a release tab up there, but couldn't quite figure that one out. Will try again today. Got to go carefully. Don't want to bust anything.

 

[Bill Knecht]

VICTORY !!!

Removing those 2 nuts on those vertical bolts of that yoke was the (penultimate) key. The final stroke was to label wires on the horn switch and 4WD switch, and carefully wiggle off their connectors (except for the ganged connector on the 4WD switch, which I couldn't figure out until I raised the hood up high enough to actually see under there). That connector has a tab on the outside of it that has to be flipped away, and then the connector will unplug.

You know what gets me, after all this nonsense? It's the fact that removing this rear hood -- which is critical to working on a lot of the electrical stuff -- is considered so elementary that it's not even given half a page in the 700 pp OEM shop manual. Everything about the process was non-trivial, starting with removing the steering wheel (which required massive force), figuring out over half a dozen bolts and nuts that had to be removed, and ending with tricky electrical connectors.

OK -- now to see if I can repair the wiring. Will post pix. A quick glance shows massive destruction. Sigh...

Thanks for your help, guys. This forum, and y'all, are great.

 

[Bill Knecht]

Oh, man, it's WAY worse than I imagined. There must be 20 wires chewed-through. See pix. In one bundle alone there are 5 black wires (meaning 5x4x3x2=120 ways they could be reconnected). I'm guessing MAJOR HASSLE to try to trace each wire and correctly reconnect.

Question: Cheaper to buy new wiring harness(es)? If so, can you recommend a vendor?

 

[Bill Knecht]

How do I tell if I have an emissionized or non-emissionized engine?

 

[Bill Knecht]

I think I have some posts out of time sequence here. Apologies.

 

[Bill Knecht]

Parts catalog has unexplained abbreviations (sections 11B01, 11B02)

What do N.A., R.O.W., and BTW stand for?

 

[Sean in PA]

N.A. = North America. It refer to tractors that were built to be sold into the North American Market.

I'm not sure on the rest of them.

 

[Bill Knecht]

North America, OK. So, that would include Mexico, presumably, which is where the S models were made.

I read somewhere else it might be Naturally Aspirated, as opposed to turbocharged.

Man, you'd think that for what NH charges for their parts catalog, they could at least have a glossary.