New Starter

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

I got a new starter for my Oliver and it's got a different wire hookup instead of just one big cable apparently you have to do something else with like a smaller ground wire or something. does anybody have a diagram or just explain what wire goes to that little nut on the left side of it? pictures for reference

 

[Jim.ME]

I got a new starter for my Oliver and it's got a different wire hookup instead of just one big cable apparently you have to do something else with like a smaller ground wire or something. does anybody have a diagram or just explain what wire goes to that little nut on the left side of it? pictures for reference

That is most likely the terminal to attach a wire that runs to the coil side of a ballast resistor to bypass the resistor during starting of a gasoline enge using a ballast resistor ahead of the coil. You can check it with a test light or voltmeter. Tractor in neutral, no power on that terminal when setting with key on, terminal has power when the starter is cranking the engine and drops out when the starter drops out.

 

[used red MN]

What model of Oliver, I see one in your avatar but there shouldn’t be a need for me to translate that into a model number. Give us a picture of the old setup.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

What model of Oliver, I see one in your avatar but there shouldn’t be a need for me to translate that into a model number. Give us a picture of the old setup.

It's a 52 Oliver 77. Old starter just had one main terminal.

 

[used red MN]

What model of Oliver, I see one in your avatar but there shouldn’t be a need for me to translate that into a model number. Give us a picture of the old setup.

Okay I checked your past posts and it is a 77. Not an Oliver guy but the parts catalog shows the type of starter with a single heavy stud for a cable to hook to. This would require either a solenoid or heavy high amp push button switch in the battery cable. If you have either of those here is what I think you need to do. To test connect one cable of a set of jumper cables one to the positive battery cable and one on the top starter stud. Make sure the tractor is in neutral! Temporarily jump power with a smaller wire from the top stud to the small terminal the left. Did it crank? If no jump power to the right one, did it crank? If it did run a 12 gauge jumper from the big terminal to whichever one made it crank. If neither did again temporarily jump power to the right small terminal and ground the left one. If that makes it crank make a permanent 12 gauge ground for the left terminal and install a jumper as said above to the right one. When done bolt the cable on the top terminal with the needed jumper.
That is a work around to use you stock starting system. The proper way would be to remove the solenoid or heavy switch. Run a battery cable direct from the battery to the terminal on the starter. Then take the existing wire that energizes the solenoid and connect it to the small terminal on the starter in whatever configuration made it start when you did the jumper cable test. The solenoid probably had other wires that feed the tractor electrical system so those would need extended to the starter terminal. If you have a high amp push button you will have to figure out how to add a push button to activate the starter solenoid.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

Okay I checked your past posts and it is a 77. Not an Oliver guy but the parts catalog shows the type of starter with a single heavy stud for a cable to hook to. This would require either a solenoid or heavy high amp push button switch in the battery cable. If you have either of those here is what I think you need to do. To test connect one cable of a set of jumper cables one to the positive battery cable and one on the top starter stud. Make sure the tractor is in neutral! Temporarily jump power with a smaller wire from the top stud to the small terminal the left. Did it crank? If no jump power to the right one, did it crank? If it did run a 12 gauge jumper from the big terminal to whichever one made it crank. If neither did again temporarily jump power to the right small terminal and ground the left one. If that makes it crank make a permanent 12 gauge ground for the left terminal and install a jumper as said above to the right one. When done bolt the cable on the top terminal with the needed jumper.
That is a work around to use you stock starting system. The proper way would be to remove the solenoid or heavy switch. Run a battery cable direct from the battery to the terminal on the starter. Then take the existing wire that energizes the solenoid and connect it to the small terminal on the starter in whatever configuration made it start when you did the jumper cable test. The solenoid probably had other wires that feed the tractor electrical system so those would need extended to the starter terminal. If you have a high amp push button you will have to figure out how to add a push button to activate the starter solenoid.

thanks I will try this

 

[old]

I got a new starter for my Oliver and it's got a different wire hookup instead of just one big cable apparently you have to do something else with like a smaller ground wire or something. does anybody have a diagram or just explain what wire goes to that little nut on the left side of it? pictures for reference

The small stud need either a ground or power applied it to make the solenoid to engage and in turn spin the engine over

 

[Jim.ME]

If it is like a Delco starter solenoid the wire from the starter switch goes on the right-side small terminal and the resistor by pass is the left-side small terminal. Neither small terminal should be grounded.

Does the starter button (switch) provide power or ground.

Along with engine voltage and ground, it wouldn't hurt to tell the brand and part number for something like this aftermarket starter, so people trying to answer your questions aren't totally guessing. This starter is not like the starter and solenoid set ups in the 77 parts book.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

If it is like a Delco starter solenoid the wire from the starter switch goes on the right-side small terminal and the resistor by pass is the left-side small terminal. Neither small terminal should be grounded.

Does the starter button (switch) provide power or ground.

Along with engine voltage and ground, it wouldn't hurt to tell the brand and part number for something like this aftermarket starter, so people trying to answer your questions aren't totally guessing. This starter is not like the starter and solenoid set ups in the 77 parts book.

I bought it for my local store that is a quote on quote Oliver retail store and they said this will work for 77. it is a 1952 Oliver 77 12 volt positive ground. I know that's weird but it's got a 12 volt battery for the starter and then it's resisted to 6 volt for the rest of the system and the charging system isn't hooked up yet

 

[JOCCO]

Okay I checked your past posts and it is a 77. Not an Oliver guy but the parts catalog shows the type of starter with a single heavy stud for a cable to hook to. This would require either a solenoid or heavy high amp push button switch in the battery cable. If you have either of those here is what I think you need to do. To test connect one cable of a set of jumper cables one to the positive battery cable and one on the top starter stud. Make sure the tractor is in neutral! Temporarily jump power with a smaller wire from the top stud to the small terminal the left. Did it crank? If no jump power to the right one, did it crank? If it did run a 12 gauge jumper from the big terminal to whichever one made it crank. If neither did again temporarily jump power to the right small terminal and ground the left one. If that makes it crank make a permanent 12 gauge ground for the left terminal and install a jumper as said above to the right one. When done bolt the cable on the top terminal with the needed jumper.
That is a work around to use you stock starting system. The proper way would be to remove the solenoid or heavy switch. Run a battery cable direct from the battery to the terminal on the starter. Then take the existing wire that energizes the solenoid and connect it to the small terminal on the starter in whatever configuration made it start when you did the jumper cable test. The solenoid probably had other wires that feed the tractor electrical system so those would need extended to the starter terminal. If you have a high amp push button you will have to figure out how to add a push button to activate the starter solenoid.

Worded different but i am in agreement with Used RED. You have 2 different types of starters 2 different wire systems. Not to hard to swap them if you have dealt with them.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

Worded different but i am in agreement with Used RED. You have 2 different types of starters 2 different wire systems. Not to hard to swap them if you have dealt with them.

thanks for your guys' help it was a lot easier than I thought it was I was just overthinking it got it running

 

[Jim.ME]

Sounds like half a 12 volt conversion has been done. They should have been able to give you wiring instructions if they said it will work.

I would still check to see if the terminals match the Delco terminal arrangement. Here is a picture of the typical DR solenoid terminal layout

 

[used red MN]

thanks for your guys' help it was a lot easier than I thought it was I was just overthinking it got it running

Which small terminal energized the solenoid?

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

Which small terminal energized the solenoid?

The left side one

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

here's a video of it
VIDEO

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

Sounds like half a 12 volt conversion has been done. They should have been able to give you wiring instructions if they said it will work.

I would still check to see if the terminals match the Delco terminal arrangement. Here is a picture of the typical DR solenoid terminal layout

View attachment 113631

I believe it is the same

 

[Jim.ME]

U believe it is the same

Sorry my post was not meant to offend you or say you were wrong about a terminal.

Yes, I relayed info of how the Delco's wire as I have dealt with aftermarket starters that look like the one in your picture and the terminal layout did match the Delco layout. Your post that it was the left side terminal that worked replying to used red wasn't until about 3 hours after I sent that post. Until you posted the left terminal started it, it could have been the Delco layout that worked to start it. We now know it is reversed from the Delco layout. Many ideas and thoughts get offered here all the time some are right, some aren't, mine wasn't this time, no problem with me.

I am glad to hear you found the right combination and got it working, that was the goal.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

Sorry my post was not meant to offend you or say you were wrong about a terminal.

Yes, I relayed info of how the Delco's wire as I have dealt with aftermarket starters that look like the one in your picture and the terminal layout did match the Delco layout. Your post that it was the left side terminal that worked replying to used red wasn't until about 3 hours after I sent that post. Until you posted the left terminal started it, it could have been the Delco layout that worked to start it. We now know it is reversed from the Delco layout. Many ideas and thoughts get offered here all the time some are right, some aren't, mine wasn't this time, no problem with me.

I am glad to hear you found the right combination and got it working, that was the goal.

No your fine nothing offend me I just didn't mean to say "u believe it is the same" I meant to say "I believe it is the same" Again you didn't offend in fact you helped me. Thanks

 

[rrlund]

It "will fit" as in it'll bolt on, but it's the wrong starter. That one's for a key start ignition, 1957 on up. There's two things you can do. Hook your cable to the bottom post on the solenoid with the cable that goes to the post on the starter, or for a cleaner look, make a jumper wire to go behind your cable, hook the cable and jumper wire to the large top post and the other end of the jumper wire to the "S" small post. It just needs to be a 10-12 gauge wire.

There is a third thing. Unless it's a gear reduction and that's what you were going for, take it back and get the right one. Talk to somebody there who knows what they're doing this time if such a person works there. A 6 volt like your original is fine with 12v negative ground.

 

[Oliverguy-NE Ohio]

It "will fit" as in it'll bolt on, but it's the wrong starter. That one's for a key start ignition, 1957 on up. There's two things you can do. Hook your cable to the bottom post on the solenoid with the cable that goes to the post on the starter, or for a cleaner look, make a jumper wire to go behind your cable, hook the cable and jumper wire to the large top post and the other end of the jumper wire to the "S" small post. It just needs to be a 10-12 gauge wire.

There is a third thing. Unless it's a gear reduction and that's what you were going for, take it back and get the right one. Talk to somebody there who knows what they're doing this time if such a person works there. A 6 volt like your original is fine with 12v negative ground.

I did get this one working. it works fine I've started it multiple times with it now and it starts at just fine. I think I will just keep this one because it has a warranty and it's working fine. I could get my old one rebuilt but it would be almost the same price as this new one was. the tractor starts the second I press the button so it's not like I have the starter running that long anyway. all I had to do was take a 12 gauge jumper wire from the s terminal on the solenoid and put it on the same terminal that my main cable goes to on the starter button.