I have just got my first ferguson. my grandad gave to me for a project. All I have known all my life if John deere. I have basic mechanical knowledge and thats about it. I went and got it and he said needed new carb and new distribitr. i cleaned it all up and put new coil on it cause i wasnt getting any fire. the new coil said to use with resistor so i got a glass one to use with it . i aslo put new plugs on it. i finnaly got to start and run. it will pull itself around easy with nothing on it. i put my plow on it the other day to see what i could do and once i put load on it it started missing and could barely pull it . cuts out some and just dont feel like it has much power to it. i know people with these that do alot more than what i was. is this a problem of not being timed good or maybe not getting enough gas. my jet stem in my carb doesnt tighten down good. they told me the carb was washed out. trying to get another one now to rebuild. ill take all the help i can get on it. thanks
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Well I figured out one of my main problems this evening. I got to adjusting the distributor to see if it may have been off and saw that I had 3 and 4 backwards. It smoothed out a lot and started pulling better but still back fires a little out exhaust. What should I be looking for now. Thanks for the help.
What is your electrical system voltage? if it"s 12 V then you need the resistor. If you have a 6 V system, you don"t nee thee resistor. Make sure that your coil is wired correctly. The small black wire from the coil to the distributor must be on the coil terminal with the same sign as the battery ground. If you have a 6V (+) ground then that wire should be on the (+) terminal of the coil. If you have a 12V (-) ground, then that wire should be on the coil (-)terminal.
What plugs are you using and what did you gap them to?
Check the initial timing(7°BTDC@400 rpm) and the advance mechanism. Make sure that the points are set correctly (0.022") and that you have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning. Firing order, as you all ready know is 1-3-4-2. It cast into the block. The distributor rotates CCW.
Once you get the ignition system set correctly, i.e. FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK AND TIMED CORRECTLY, then, (and only then) adjust the carb power jet (big screw on top of carb fuel bowl). Screw it in all the way, gently(don"t reef it down!) then screw it out 1-1/4 turns for starters. The small idle mixture screw need to be opened 3/4 turn out(By the way it controls the idle air so screwing it out leans the idle mixture.) bring the engine to opeerating temperature then accelerate from Idle to max throttle. It should accelerate smoothy without hesitation. If it bogs down, try enriching it 1/8 turn and repeat. If it improves your going the right way. If it doesn"t try leaning it back 1/4 turm and see if that helps. keep trying to get it to accel smoothly. But DO NOT GO BELOW ONE TURN OUT ON THE MAIN JET SCREW. That"s too lean an will lead to burned exhaust valves. if the adjustment don"t help, you carb aybe dirty and a good cleaning would be in order. By the way i disagree with whoever told you it needed a new carb. It most likely has the original Marvel-Schebler carb on it and that"s a rugged, simple, reliable carb that lends it self to cleaning and rebuilding.
I can"t stress getting the ignition system right(timing and spark quality) from the get go. then work the miture adjustment.
Hope this helps you.
What plugs are you using and what did you gap them to?
Check the initial timing(7°BTDC@400 rpm) and the advance mechanism. Make sure that the points are set correctly (0.022") and that you have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning. Firing order, as you all ready know is 1-3-4-2. It cast into the block. The distributor rotates CCW.
Once you get the ignition system set correctly, i.e. FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK AND TIMED CORRECTLY, then, (and only then) adjust the carb power jet (big screw on top of carb fuel bowl). Screw it in all the way, gently(don"t reef it down!) then screw it out 1-1/4 turns for starters. The small idle mixture screw need to be opened 3/4 turn out(By the way it controls the idle air so screwing it out leans the idle mixture.) bring the engine to opeerating temperature then accelerate from Idle to max throttle. It should accelerate smoothy without hesitation. If it bogs down, try enriching it 1/8 turn and repeat. If it improves your going the right way. If it doesn"t try leaning it back 1/4 turm and see if that helps. keep trying to get it to accel smoothly. But DO NOT GO BELOW ONE TURN OUT ON THE MAIN JET SCREW. That"s too lean an will lead to burned exhaust valves. if the adjustment don"t help, you carb aybe dirty and a good cleaning would be in order. By the way i disagree with whoever told you it needed a new carb. It most likely has the original Marvel-Schebler carb on it and that"s a rugged, simple, reliable carb that lends it self to cleaning and rebuilding.
I can"t stress getting the ignition system right(timing and spark quality) from the get go. then work the miture adjustment.
Hope this helps you.
Exhaust backfire could be slightly burnt exhaust valves but more than likely is just a lean carburetor setting.
Richen it up and your ehgine should smmoth out.
If you had a vacuum source to hook a guage on I would say the highest steady reading on a vacuum gauge. Such is not our luck. So, fatten it up until the sputtering goes away and perhaps another 1/8 turn.
Then again, if you have a tachometer, fatten it until the RPM stop climbing. Then if it starts to drop in speed, back it off.
Richen it up and your ehgine should smmoth out.
If you had a vacuum source to hook a guage on I would say the highest steady reading on a vacuum gauge. Such is not our luck. So, fatten it up until the sputtering goes away and perhaps another 1/8 turn.
Then again, if you have a tachometer, fatten it until the RPM stop climbing. Then if it starts to drop in speed, back it off.
I can't believe no one suggested a clogged up fuel flow or rusty tank or old fuel. Try draining the carb by unscrewing bolt under the carb, turn on gas and make sure there is a good flow and sniff that tank, if it stinks drain it.After all these guys on the forum get through with your tractor you will be pulling that deer around the yard with it.
well i got new plugs for it and im pretty sure there autolite. it had in it champion c16 or something before. its been changed to 12v system on it. chevy altenator and all. i put new coil that called for resitor so i got a glass one and mounted on it. im sure my wires are not the best. as soon as some more tractor money comes im going to get a whole new set. i did rewire the rest of tractor with 12g wire to everything. ive never timed anything in my life so ill see about recruiting some help to do that. ill check my plugs when i get home and see bout spark. i appreciate all the help from everyone. ill check back in tonight with everything i find. thanks
and also jerry on my carb i have no adjusters on it besides the big screw down in my bowl. you have to seperate carb to get to it. all the other carbs that i see on here and even an used one im bidding on ebay has the adjustments on top. i dont know if i had a special carb for that model or what. its a marval carb.
one thing i thought i saw somewhere on here is that no1 plug wire should be at 10 oclock. or closest to the radiator. mine is more like at 1oclock . im not sure if the distributor has been flipped or what. i know its worn out and im trying to get a better one. when i first got i took no1 out and turned motor over until what i think was the compresion stroke and then checked distributor to match and placed wires accordingly. i do know one thing, thank god for the internet and all of yall on here. lol
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