New user, new tractor

[esbrian]

Hi all,

Newish member here, first post, first tractor. I picked this 850 up this spring from a local seller on CL. I bought it over the winter but left it at the seller's location (he's a Farmall shop) until the snow banks around my boss's trailer melted enough to get it out. In the meantime, I fixed up the center bay of my barn to get the tractor out of the weather.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=FA8FA1420D8254D!559&authkey=!AKft4WXX21KEEBY&ithint=folder%2c

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Based on the SN, it's a '55. It came with a Dearborn back blade on it that I removed to clean up a bit before taking these photos. It runs well, but has several issues that fall somewhere between minor and severe - I don't know enough yet to say how serious/expensive it's problems are. I'll start topics specifically for each of these issues as I begin to attack them, but off the top of my head here's what needs work:

[b:c9b1ab21a4]Steering:[/b:c9b1ab21a4] The seller topped up the steering gear box (manual steering) before I took it home, noting that he might have overfilled it. It's leaking steadily - it looks like it's coming from the junction of the transmission case and the steering case, but there's enough oil in the area now it's hard to say for sure. There's a LOT of play in the steering, maybe a third of a revolution of the steering wheel before I feel resistance and the steering arms move. The steering column rises and falls maybe 3/16" when the wheel is turned in either direction between the points where it engages and begins turning the arms.

[b:c9b1ab21a4]Gauges:[/b:c9b1ab21a4] I doubt I can trust the oil pressure gauge. It runs around 40-50 lbs at all times (when the engine is running). I've run it for maybe 1.5 hours at a time, so I would have expected the gauge to drop as it warmed up. Seller changed the oil last fall when he took it in, putting in straight 30 weight. The proofmeter jiggles during operation but doesn't seem to move in response to RPM changes. The needle is broken off under the glass. Temp gauge and ammeter appear to be operating normally, but I'm not sure how to tell if the temp gauge is accurate.

[b:c9b1ab21a4]Leveling Box:[/b:c9b1ab21a4] Seems to be stripped or the gears are not engaging one another. When removed from the tractor and held upright with the gearbox at the top, turning the threaded shaft causes the crank to spin. When installed on the tractor the crank spins freely. I can feel the teeth rubbing but the shaft doesn't turn. Temporarily replaced with a TSC turnbuckle.

Lastly, I noticed after the last time I operated it that after shutdown I'm getting a small amount of dark, thin oil dripping from the front of the transmission case. Based on the way it's staining the cardboard it's parked over, I suspect there's water in it. This leak worries me more than the rest. I think the front-most section of the transmission case is supposed to be dry, but I'm just barely starting to learn about this stuff. Thoughts?

Anyway, I'm glad to be here and glad to have a new way to spend all of my disposable income .

Brian

edit: As I suspected, my photos aren't showing up correctly. Clearly I'm doing something wrong... suggestions?

 

[Royse]

Welcome and congratulations on the new tractor!
Sounds like the steering gear box may need new bearings and seals.
Once you have a manual it should show you how to do it.

The gauges are readily available if you need to replace them.
The proofmeter may need a new cable also.
You can check the temp gauge against a hand held infrared to
see if they come close to matching.

The leveling box can be taken apart for a look-see.
I'm not sure if parts are still available. Haven't checked.

There is a cotter key in a hole in the bottom of the bell housing.
The hole is to let oil out if the rear main seal or the input seal
on the transmission is leaking a little and the cotter key keeps
the hole from plugging up. That way the clutch doesn't get oil
soaked. Check to make sure the cotter key is loose and letting
the oil drain. If it continues and its bad enough, you may have
to split the tractor to fix it.

Here are your pictures:

 

[esbrian]

Royse,

thanks much. Those are indeed my pictures :lol: . How'd you get them to show up correctly?

Where would I be aiming the infrared thermometer to check the temp gauge?

I'll locate the cotter key and check that out. If the clutch gets oily can it be washed down with solvent? Or would that be pointless until the leaking seal is replaced?

Brian

 

[Royse]

I just uploaded them directly to this site Brian. It's easier for me.

You can check the temp in many spots, manifold, thermostat
housing, etc but if I was trying to judge the gauge I would try
to get as close to the temperature gauge bulb as I could.

The clutch disk can be cleaned with brake cleaner if needed.
You would probably notice it grabbing or sticking if it were oily.
If that drain hole is working it shouldn't be too oily though.
Most of mine weep a little. Until they get bad I leave 'em be.

You did say the oil looked like it had water in it though.
Have you checked the tranny fluid and the engine oil for water?
Might tell you which is leaking and whether or not other repairs
are needed in the near future besides a fluid change.

 

[souNdguy]

i bet the sectro seals are leaking oil out at their base and that is running down the case.

the 3/16" play is thrust bearings. top one likely gone.

pull box apart. repalce upper nad lower thrust bearing and top column bushing. if the races are bad.. replace them.

replace sector seals.

retime box and adjust shim stack.

now adjust sector backlash with adjuster studs.

you can usually make thes elike new.

I personally like to use 0 or 00ep grease to fill the boxes even after repalcing the seals.

if there is water int he trans. get rid of it and check hyds.

hyd tubes run thru trans. you don't want them perforating....

 

[cbrown9064]

I'll second what Soundguy said. The top thrust bearing likely let go from lack of lube and since it is not there anymore, the shaft does not have anything to prevent it from "rising up". I just went through this on my 861. Boxes are super simple, you will spend more time pulling The bits off (battery tray, air cleaner, dash, pitman arms, etc...) than pulling the box apart and fixing.

Get a pitman arm puller, if you don't have one. Get a cheapy, as you might have to grind the puller to get it to grab the arms.

If you don't have shop manuals yet, get them. I suggest both the I&T FO-20 and the Ford reprint. You will need them over time.

Like Soundguy said, many of us run 00EP grease in the box. You can get quarts of "Cotton Picker Spindle Grease" from Tractor Supply.

I would get on that steering box sooner rather than later. The bearings, seals, shims, etc... Can be ordered from this site. Look under "800 steering parts" instead of 850. Broadens the search. The needles from the upper bearing can get in the gears and break teeth on the gears, so if that has not happened to you yet, get the box apart and get the bearing pieces out of there...

 

[esbrian]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I appreciate all the advice and the quick response! I have the manuals, I just haven't gotten into them yet. Based on what has been said so far, it looks to me like fixing the steering box and checking/changing fluids needs to happen before I put too many more hours on the tractor to avoid doing any further damage.

As I get into these projects I'll start new threads for my questions, but before I go, one more fluids question: I understand that the transmission, hydraulic, and rear diff sumps are separate but likely to leak between one another - if I change the fluid in any one of these from whatever they currently contain to UTF, is it best practice to change all to UTF at the same time? The reason I ask is that I have a 5-gallon bucket of it which will be good for 2 out of 3, but maybe I should buy enough to do all 3 at once...

Thanks again,

Brian