NH Injector Pump Replace

[SWOOLEY]

Me and my brother, who is good at fixing anything, installed the pump and used every technique known to bleed the lines but it will not start. Fuel is getting to the pump but it seems that no fuel is coming out of the pump. I can't imagine that the brand new pump is bad. What could it be?
SW

 

[Jim in LA]

I would call the company I bought it from and tell them what’s going on. It is my understanding that injector pumps have to be timed and that may be the problem. Someone will be along soon that knows a whole lot more than I do. I hope it’s nothing that can’t easily be resolved.

 

[DanielW]

What pump make/model, or what tractor is this on? Could be many things, and there are certainly some experts here (Dieseltech and others) who can likely help you, but would need more details. Pictures would also be handy.

This is just a wild guess without knowing more details: A lot of pumps (especially Roosa/Standadyne) have internal shut-off solenoids. Does yours have one? And (if so) do you have power to it?

 

[rustred]

and what are you working on ?

 

[Dieseltech]

Need more info what make model engine? What pump? Ford/New Holland had more than one engine used.

 

[SWOOLEY]

NH TC35D
Zexel injector pump

 

[Dieseltech]

Is the rack moving?
Are all three pump OUTLETS tight?
If ANY are not tight the fuel will bypass INTERNALLY and not open the injectors.
On glow plug engines I bleed them this way, remove ALL glow plugs so engine will crank faster.
Have all injector line nuts LOOSE and crank engine until there's fuel at ALL injectors.
Then tighten the nuts and crank more until there's air/fuel mixture blow out the glow plug holes.
Install plugs, heat them and start engine.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If you got brutal disconnecting the governor link, it may be bent and binding the rack in no-fuel position.

It is a very delicate piece that needs to be handled carefully during R/R of the pump.

 

[SWOOLEY]

Still not starting. Originally we replaced the old pump because we couldn't get it to stop leaking but it worked properly. Once we tried everything with the new pump, we thought maybe it's a faulty pump. So we reinstalled the old pump. It will not pump now either. My brother is really good at machanic work (retired RV tech). He checked the solenoid and is sure he didn't damage the gov link. What could it possibly be? I do not want to call a dealer. SW

 

[showcrop]

Still not starting. Originally we replaced the old pump because we couldn't get it to stop leaking but it worked properly. Once we tried everything with the new pump, we thought maybe it's a faulty pump. So we reinstalled the old pump. It will not pump now either. My brother is really good at machanic work (retired RV tech). He checked the solenoid and is sure he didn't damage the gov link. What could it possibly be? I do not want to call a dealer. SW

See the suggestions from Dieseltech above.

 

[used red MN]

Still not starting. Originally we replaced the old pump because we couldn't get it to stop leaking but it worked properly. Once we tried everything with the new pump, we thought maybe it's a faulty pump. So we reinstalled the old pump. It will not pump now either. My brother is really good at machanic work (retired RV tech). He checked the solenoid and is sure he didn't damage the gov link. What could it possibly be? I do not want to call a dealer. SW

SWOOLEY, welcome to YT! I believe Fritz is referring to number 15 in this link Messicks NH TC35D IJP diagram Or what it connects to that goes up to the governor on the front of the cam. I am not sure if there is a way to tell if the rack is moving after the pump is installed or not. It doesn’t look like it to me, Dieseltech could probably answer that. No disrespect to your brother, but unfortunately it has been my experience that the description of “he can fix anything” has a lot of levels.

 

[Jim.ME]

Is the fuel solenoid adjusted to move what it contacts properly?

When you are bleeding the high-pressure injection lines at the injector ends with them loose, are you cranking the engine with the fuel set to run (key on)?

 

[Welding man]

You have to spill time these pumps. I have never been able to use the same amount of shims on the new pump as on the old pump. They can be very touchy to get right. John Deere, New Holland and Kubota all use the same style pump. I replaced one on a Kubota RTV 1100 last week. If you have never spill timed one you need a manual for the machine you are working on. That is a Shibaura engine. We replaced a pump on a Princeton Forklift a while back that had a Caterpillar engine it. The procedure is the same. You have to know what the engine times on and remove the delivery valve on #1 cylinder and add or remove shims to get the flow to start at the right time.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Well then it must be something you guys did to it if the old pump no longer works. Go back and recheck your work. There's not that much to it..... damaged/disconnected governor link (did he remember to install that tiny hairpin? Thats a real mother to install, no room to work and can't see what you're doing.)

Stuck/inoperative shut-down solenoid? Broken wire? Fuel fuse blown?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Once you get the fuel pumping, I'd recommend removing some of the air intake piping and have a piece of wood ready to kill it in the event of a runaway.

Need to be on the safe side any time you mess with the governor.... especially with the problem you're having and dont know what is causing it.