NH knotter query

[Bret4207]

There, I used the word "query" for the very first time in my life.

So, been playing with the knotter on my old semi-reliable 68 baler. I have a question or 2. My knife arm shaft has a lot more play in it than I'd like to see. My NH knotter book says I'm supposed to take up any play with "shim washers" to get 1/16" or less movement. Where does one find these mythical "shim washers"? Second part of that question is, Has anyone ever used something like a Speedi Sleeve to bush the knife arm shaft so there's less wobble? Is it even worth considering? I'm fairly sure some of my intermittent knotter issues ( once or twice every 100-300 bales) are due to the shaft hole being kinda generous in the clearance area.

Question 2- The twine fingers. Mine would best be described as "floppy". I'm pretty sure they shouldn't be. Can someone give me an idea of just how well fitted I should expect them to be? I'm assuming some new (er) parts are in order, but I'm not sure if these things should have some up and down play or if they should run in an arc and not be at all floppy. I have a vague recollection of messing with them years ago, but that doesn't mean I did the repair anywhere near correctly.

One of the bad things about getting an ancient baler working pretty good is that you get so you start expecting it not to malfunction at all. What is the old saying about "Pride going before the fall"? :roll:

 

[old]

Those washer/shim maybe able to be found at a NH dealer. As for the fingers you taking about the twine tucker fingers?? If yes they should have some play but how much is hard to say I know on the NH balers I have messed with there is a washer that sit on top of the tucker fingers so as to help stop some of the slop.

As far as depending in one to do as it should when it should I never do because I know when I do it will do something it is not suppose to do

 

[IanC]

Shims part numbers: 0.015" 187426, 0.025" 195903. Had to go up to the 310 baler book before I found them. I seem to remember them coming in 10 packs, so if your dealer doesn't stock them you may get stuck with 10 of whatever size you order. There used to have a small format (like pocket size) book about setting and troubleshooting knotter problems, you may still be able to order a copy.

 

[IanC]

P.S. if you want to use the online parts book, type "hayliner" in the search field as typing 68 didn't bring up the 68 book.

 

[Hay hay hay]

My twine fingers are "floppy" too. I think that is a planned part of the pivoting system. But, if not...I will get to
replace them eventually, but considering my age.....they may (or probably will) out last me.

 

[RickB]

Twine fingers (Tucker fingers) get pretty sloppy but it doesn?t seem to bother much. The wear in your knotter frame?s knife arm bore is more
problematic. Use whatever you can find to duplicate thin shim washers over the knife arm shaft between the frame and the knife arm. Shimming
will not completely cure the sloppiness. Most folks would replace the knotter frame rather than boring and bushing but there?s no reason boring
and bushing the frame won?t work.

 

[Bret4207]

Thanks guys!

 

[IanC]

Dug out my little book, and the only thing it says about the twine finger is: home position "flush to slot", and adjustment to needle 1/32 inch.

 

[DManey]

(quoted from post at 22:44:46 08/25/18) There, I used the word "query" for the very first time in my life.

So, been playing with the knotter on my old semi-reliable 68 baler. I have a question or 2. My knife arm shaft has a lot more play in it than I'd like to see. My NH knotter book says I'm supposed to take up any play with "shim washers" to get 1/16" or less movement. Where does one find these mythical "shim washers"? Second part of that question is, Has anyone ever used something like a Speedi Sleeve to bush the knife arm shaft so there's less wobble? Is it even worth considering? I'm fairly sure some of my intermittent knotter issues ( once or twice every 100-300 bales) are due to the shaft hole being kinda generous in the clearance area.

Question 2- The twine fingers. Mine would best be described as "floppy". I'm pretty sure they shouldn't be. Can someone give me an idea of just how well fitted I should expect them to be? I'm assuming some new (er) parts are in order, but I'm not sure if these things should have some up and down play or if they should run in an arc and not be at all floppy. I have a vague recollection of messing with them years ago, but that doesn't mean I did the repair anywhere near correctly.

One of the bad things about getting an ancient baler working pretty good is that you get so you start expecting it not to malfunction at all. What is the old saying about "Pride going before the fall"? :roll:

I may have a set of knotted frames for your baled in the shop I'd make someone a good deal on.