NNA questions

ECHLIN CS-35 now made in Cheena and last batch of half dozen I had were junk- - - could not align point contacts NOR get them to GAP correctly. STD IGN is best, TISCO ATK6FF or CNH 87744524 next best good brans. CNH is twice as much be forewarned. Average cost of points should be abut $16; anyone charging more is a ripoff. NAPA stocks all the parts and a many, ECHLIN/STD IGN, are Made In the USA. CNH made in Canada. The TISCO kit includes the condenser and a reusable .015" Feeler Gage to GAP points with. Save it.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)

+1 one the Chi-Com parts. I had problems with an Echlin cap a few years back for my 9N, cap was bought quite a while before I needed it. It would not fit on the distributor. I had to take a file to it so it would fit in the distributor housing. Has worked OK since then.

O'Rielly's carries Standard/Blue Streak. That's what we put in the NAA dist. It was a mess with advance mech froze up.

We still have one local run parts store here, not bought out by Advance/Auto Zone/etc......to my surprise they can get most Standard ign parts next day, and the parts counter guys aren't idiots!

I just got some STD ign parts for the TO-30 I'm working on (points/cap). Cap is quality with brass contacts not aluminum. I'll be posting some pictures for the thread I got going in the Ferguson forum soon, just got done tearing apart the distributor. Hope to install this weekend.

that is a piece of sh t find a good used one

We need to contact the vendor who supplied the int/ex manifold, hopefully they take it back. It's not going on the NAA.

My cousin is looking for an OEM one. Might be hard to find one not rotted? There are a few tractor junkyards not too far away in NY State. If anyone has a decent manifold contact me.

P.S. my cousin raises beef too! Here's a little one that just popped out.

1 calf 3:2024.png
 
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ECHLIN CS-35 now made in Cheena and last batch of half dozen I had were junk- - - could not align point contacts NOR get them to GAP correctly. STD IGN is best, TISCO ATK6FF or CNH 87744524 next best good brans. CNH is twice as much be forewarned. Average cost of points should be abut $16; anyone charging more is a ripoff. NAPA stocks all the parts and a many, ECHLIN/STD IGN, are Made In the USA. CNH made in Canada. The TISCO kit includes the condenser and a reusable .015" Feeler Gage to GAP points with. Save it.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)

Same company for most all of them
 
Back doing some work on the NAA. Got water pump on and doing clean up around top of engine before putting the head back on. Amazing how much crud was hidden under the old water pump.........

One question concerns the head. We had a machine shop do the work new:valves, springs, ex seats, seals, guides, surfaced head and resurfaced the int seats. They also tanked it and painted it, looks nice. We forgot to bring the ex valve caps to the shop when we got the work done and it don't look like an easy job of checking the clearances on the caps. Supposed to keep each cap with it's respective valve when clearance is set.

Thoughts on this? Looks like take the ex valves out to check or fit clearance. Have a valve spring compressor. Do I check it/do it ourselves or bring back to shop?

Next question is cleaning area behind the pushrod cover. Has some gunk built up in there, was going to use a brush with diesel as solvent. I have plugs for the oil return holes but what are suggestions for keeping stuff out of the lifters/lifter bores?

Lifters are mushroom type so can't pull them out and plug the holes, they come out from below. Tape over the tops then rinse around the bores?

Block surface was cleaned up pretty good and checked for surface with plate glass and feeler gauges. I thought of using some wet/dry paper on it but don't want to get abrasives in cylinders or water/oil passages. Any ideas for getting the surface really clean?
 
One question concerns the head. We had a machine shop do the work new:valves, springs, ex seats, seals, guides, surfaced head and resurfaced the int seats. They also tanked it and painted it, looks nice. We forgot to bring the ex valve caps to the shop when we got the work done and it don't look like an easy job of checking the clearances on the caps. Supposed to keep each cap with it's respective valve when clearance is set.

Thoughts on this? Looks like take the ex valves out to check or fit clearance. Have a valve spring compressor. Do I check it/do it ourselves or bring back to shop?

Found a thread here on ex valve caps and how they work.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/801-ford-diesel-exhaust-valve-cap-clearance.1388881/

Other research shows they were on Jubilee/NAA/600-900 series ex valves.
 
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