No power steering or reverse

Eaust76

Member
I have a case 1070 that has been sitting for 2 years it starts right up runs good but lost power steering and reverse in the power shift
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:15 03/30/21) I have a case 1070 that has been sitting for 2 years it starts right up runs good but lost power steering and reverse in the power shift

Most likely you have lost the 8 gallon pump section in the main pump. it supplies the steering and power brakes on tractors so equipped, its return circuit supplies the rps34 lube circuit, and the reverse lockout spool with its supply to actuate it. On top of the transmission valve there is a plate with test fitting ports in the top, one port is marked LUBE, a gauge in that port should show 75 lb. whenever the clutch pedal is released (up). I would advise that you have the pump analyzed by someone with a flow meter, Pumps are very expensive and a test could possibly save you money by pin pointing the problem instead of just swapping parts.
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:44 03/30/21)
(quoted from post at 11:32:15 03/30/21) I have a case 1070 that has been sitting for 2 years it starts right up runs good but lost power steering and reverse in the power shift

Most likely you have lost the 8 gallon pump section in the main pump. it supplies the steering and power brakes on tractors so equipped, its return circuit supplies the rps34 lube circuit, and the reverse lockout spool with its supply to actuate it. On top of the transmission valve there is a plate with test fitting ports in the top, one port is marked LUBE, a gauge in that port should show 75 lb. whenever the clutch pedal is released (up). I would advise that you have the pump analyzed by someone with a flow meter, Pumps are very expensive and a test could possibly save you money by pin pointing the problem instead of just swapping parts.
 
should I start with a filter change it acts like it wants to reverse but I didnt want to ruin anything by keep trying or more throttle
 
The filter s have a bypass valve to keep the systems from starving in case of filter plugging. In my opinion you will not gain anything, you are welcome to try. In my opinion, the first thing you must do is have the hydraulic pump evaluated and if that checks out ok go to the next thin, the 8 gpm circuit on that tractor is just not that complicated. If it tries to move in reverse but does not, the clutches are engaged and slipping, a sure way to warp plates if continued.
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:16 03/30/21) should I start with a filter change it acts like it wants to reverse but I didnt want to ruin anything by keep trying or more throttle
got the tractor for 2k in your opinion is it worth the 1100 for anew pump the tractor has good rear tires new front rims and tires but the second range does not work all the other 3 do
 
I cannot answer that question for you, Maybe DonL has a used pump, How many hours are on it?, Have u used it enough to see what the engine is like? what is its overall condition, if a hydraulic pump fixes it , it is a lot of tractor for that money. From your original post I got the impression the power shift worked in all but reverse. If it needs a power shift rebuild that adds another dynamic to the situation. The reverse lockout spool has passages that direct oil to different clutches and if it is not working may disable c3 which is needed for second range. Diagnosis of the pump is your primary issue to attack at this point. A trained technician can check out your pumps 8 gpm circuit with a direct hookup to the pump outlet to sump and do a complete power shift clutch leakage and hydraulic system function through the remotes. With my flow meter I could detect down to .5 PM leakage, I am sure others can also, In addition , if it is a power brake tractor the brakes will also fail if the 8PM pump fails. I repeat, the 8 GPM pump return oil goes to the power shift valve and supplies the lube circuit to the power shift and the flow supplies the 75 lbs regulated pressure to operate the reverse lockout spool. A power shift analysis cannot be done with an inoperable 8 PM circuit.
 
(quoted from post at 10:32:15 03/30/21) I have a case 1070 that has been sitting for 2 years it starts right up runs good but lost power steering and reverse in the power shift

mEl is definitely one to give you good advise on your tractor.

All I can add are a few of the quick and dirty checks.

What is the fluid level?

I don't what the weather is like where you are, could there be a block of ice in the bottom of the housing restricting fluid flow at the strainer?

Is your hydraulic gauge on the dash reading in the green?

Does it have a loader on and if so is it that is working?

The pump comes off in about 5 minutes there is an O-ring that makes a seal between the pump and the tractor that I have had to replace on a few tractors, they are sometimes pinched or damaged when the pump is installed.
A bad O-ring will cause the pump to loose it's prime especially after it has sat unused for a long period of time.

If it has lost it's prime often all it takes to get it going is;
With tractor running loosen the hose fitting coming off the pump a half turn and listen for the sound to change, if and when it does fluid will start leaking out so be ready to tighten it back up.

As far as your question of is it worth fixing;
Based off your description of it I would give you what you paid for it in a heartbeat, but with that said I do have a good powershift sitting in the yard from a tractor I parted out.
 
ok this is what I got going on after looking at it myself Im getting about 62 psi at the lube port fluid is full no loader or attachment hook to tractor it seems to go forward in every range in second on power shift but no reverse in any range. The power steering works while tractor is in motion
 
check what happens when you try to turn the steering sitting still, see if the lube pressure drops when you cramp the steering. the power steering should let you turn the wheels easily sitting still. 65 lbs is a bit low on lube pressure but do the steering thing first that will give us a clue.
 
is it safe to drive it home to be able to work on it or should I leave it where it is to do more testing
 
If it works normally with no lugging in any range i see no reason that it could not be driven that far.
 
I drove the tractor home today in second range and second gear on power shift and when I went to stop I pushed the clutch in and it stalled the tractor I put it in neutral and it starts but squeals and then stalls any idea what causes this
 
It sounds like stuck pilot spools in the trans control valve, do not run it till you have the valve cleaned and sticky spools freed up or you will severely damage the power shift. you have multiple problems, It sounds to me like the hydraulic oil and filter servicing has been poorly maintained. the squealing sounds you are hearing are the clutch plates slipping together and will be destroyed if the problem is not corrected. there are pilot spools for each clutch and only two are used at a time, when a clutch does not drop out because of a sticky spool the transmission is forced to try to move and the squealing/ stalling is a result. Even with the 4 speed out of gear the power shift is working the same so do not run it.
 
mvphoto72969.jpg
 

No, that is not normal, it is damage from improper handling, I do not see how it could be done on disassembly. two possibilities, a good machine shop could probably plane it or you could have a spot of aluminum weld put on there and worked down carefully. If you look in the body you can see the pilot spools that get sticky , they have a i believe a 10-24 thread in them so you can thread a screw into them and work them back and forth to clean them up, remove them one at a time to keep from mixing parts
 

No, that is not normal, it is damage from improper handling, I do not see how it could be done on disassembly. two possibilities, a good machine shop could probably plane it or you could have a spot of aluminum weld put on there and worked down carefully. If you look in the body you can see the pilot spools that get sticky , they have a i believe a 10-24 thread in them so you can thread a screw into them and work them back and forth to clean them up, remove them one at a time to keep from mixing parts
 
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