No spark white 2-44

Mouse1967

New User
Can anyone assist me with my problem of the no spark. I have power to coil and distributor. Tractor ran a few years go, I found out later. However, it should run with new plugs, cap and wires. Cleaned points. I have never had this problem with tractors. I have plenty of years on Ford 3,000 and 4,000. This white has me going.
 
how did you clean the points? a point file is the best thing to use. so what happens when you use a small screw driver and open them and let them snap shut. should be seeing or hearing the spark at the contacts. make sure key is on. points is more important than sticking on a cap and wires and plugs. it will run with those used things.
 
Are you seeing a spark at the points when you crank over your engine? Take the wire going from the coil to the distributor off the distributor, and place your un-powered test light between the end of the wire and the distributor post. Turn over engine with the key on and see if the light blinks. If it does not check the plastic pass through in the side of the distributor. They will crack from improper tightening and allow shorting to the housing. In theory you can just use your test light doing the same test without removing the wire as when the points are closed the current will flow through the point to ground easier than through the resistance of the bulb, but I remove the wire to eliminate a variable.
 
Here is some simple trouble shooting that even a cave man can do if he could read.

Use a simple hot wire from the ignition side of the battery to the coil. With the points closed you should get a spark when you touch the ignition side of the coil. With the points open you should not get a spark. If not spark when the points are close then the point have not been cleaned good enough. If you get a spark when there open then you have a short and the insulator going into the side if the distributor maybe bad
 
Do you have a test meter?

If the Kettering ignition system, it will be no different to any other Kettering system.

Test coil for spark at the king lead.
Check for correct current through the coil, with points closed, and none with points open.
Open points with an insulated screwdriver and check for spark at a good plug, connected to the king lead.
Test condenser, if spark is yellowish.
Check rotor cap for insulation.
Check distributor cap for cracks/shorting.
Check timing is in order and plug leads are connected correctly.
Engine should start, if the fault was only in the ignition system and any faults, found, were corrected as diagnostic tests proceeded.

The system is simple and has been tried and tested - and worked - for many decades.
If you don?t have a test meter, a test lamp should be able to do most of the tests - certainly sufficient to get a spark from the king lead. Testing
the rotor cap can be done by seeing if a spark (from the king lead) jumps to the rotor - if it does, the energy must be leaking from the rotor to
earth potential. Testing for voltage, only, may not give the answers you should be looking for.
 
harder for me to troubleshoot no spark from here than it is for you there.
:) these machines are as easy as 2+2, but you must use 2+2...probably a bad
ground.

something has a bad connection
 
I have found my problem. The bottom plates was rusty. Condenser wire smashed. I routed new cond. wire around the shaft to new points and added new wire from coil. I have limited use of my right hand due to strokes. So, I removed the dist. Snugged it up in a vise. Works as advertised. It is always simple. We make it hard. New I have to free the govern., it is sticking and won't idle down. I truly thank every ones inputs. Nice to now there are caring people ready to assist. Kind of like the military. Thanks, again.
 
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