rstokes2

New User
Lets start from beginning hole was leaking behind coil machine hole to cam lube repaired ok.when i was putting coil back on broke neg side post off.called orielys they said they had the right coil got coil this then sounded like a busted chain saw called them back gave me another coil samething.then found out they did not listen that i needed one with internal resistor.got the right coil at farm store ran for one min then died,no spark now have 12v to coil,12v to points,still no spark,what damage might the wrong coil do to cause no spark issue
 
first.. I challange you to find a modern ignition coil that contains an internal restive element. Nowadays they are simply made with correct primary resistance due to wire gauge and number of turns.

that said.. it's super easy to get a native 12v round coil. a napa IC14SB is a 16$ coil.. is native 12v, needs no external resistor.. anything that crosses directly to it will be electrically ok.

now... if you had a 6v coil, the point smay have arced and burned.. still.. a few minutes on a 6v coil shouldn't have done much.. and it actually should have ran GREAT during those few minutes.

I suspect you have another issue like a fouled plug or bad wires.. or mismatched plug wires / fire order..

I'd also check the rest of the primary ignition circuit for bad connections.
 
took points out plastic melted and end burnt on contacts should i go get a complete set of wires, cap, rotor,
plugs and start over?
 
(quoted from post at 15:00:10 11/27/12) took points out plastic melted and end burnt on contacts should i go get a complete set of wires, cap, rotor,
plugs and start over?
I would start with just a new set of points.
Changing more parts may introduce more problems.
 
would you buy a new car to change a bad headlamp? (no ).

change the known bad part and troubleshoot from there. probably ( hopefully ) all you need.

PS.. buying a 18$ set of high quality points with good contacts and a phenolic rubbing block will be better than 4+ sets of 4.99$ cheap tisco points.. that have junky contacts that corode easilly.. less hard coating face.. are not ventilated.. and the rubbing blocks are a soft plastic that under normal circumstances, wears out too fast, and under extreme circumstances, like extra heat, , the block melts prematurely.. plus the metal tabs on them are sometimes bent or not stamped correct for holes to line up and adjust perfectly.. plus the hinge insulation and hinge joint many times sets askew and is not ideal for breakers to strike square.. and if they don't strike square.. you get uneven wear and reduced surface area for conduction.. leading to hot spots, burning and arcing..
 
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