no spark

[Ben(LA)]

I started my 52 TO30 for the first time in 4 weeks today and it ran fine for 15 minutes and then quit-- almost like it ran out of gas. I checked the carb-- plenty of fuel flowing out of the drain. I checked a few spark plugs; they looked good but weren't wet with gas after turning the engine over a few times. I then checked for a spark at the points and didn't see one, and I don't have that fat bluish spark at plug #1. I have voltage at the distributer, but I don't have my multimeter with me, just a cheap circuit tester. I read in the archives a coil usually fails in use-- is this possibly my problem? I guess I am looking for the next logical step... Thanks in advance.

 

[Fred T. Hart Jr.]

I would look for broken/loose wire. Probably better off with a problem like yours than one that is on again off again, sometimes they are very hard to find.

You can get a wiring diagram off this site for your tractor and just follow it out.

check switch wires, battery cables, be sure you have a good battery,

need a good mulit meter to check things out

let us know what you find!!

 

[Ben(LA)]

Thanks Fred-- I checked the ignition switch, and the battery is only a few months old... and I do have voltage at the condenser, but until I grab my multimeter tomorrow I am somewhat limited, but I am looking for the next place to start troubleshooting (or more likely what I have overlooked)...

 

[phil(WA)]

Mine did exactly that and replacing the condenser fixed it. It seemed to be in a short condition.

Phil(WA)*

 

[Jerry/MT]

Since you don"t have a spark, you most likely have a problem in the primary ignition circuit. It could be a loose dirty/corroded connection, a bad ignition switch, bad points( burned or corroded) or incorrect point setting, or a failed coil. Some times a 6 V coil is used without a resistor in a 12v electrical system. If that"s what you have you may have overheated the coil and it shorted internally. they will restart in a short time only to quit again. Try starting after a 15-30 minute cool down. If it starts, then that may be your problem. If you have a 12v system and you don"t have a true 12V coil, NAPA carries an IC-14SB coil(~$15) that"s a true 12V coil. If you have a coil that says 12V "Use with external resistor", you"ll need to get the real 12V coil or put a resistor in series with the coil to limit the current to 4 amps max.It will have to have a hot resistance of ~1.5 ohms.What kind of coil do you have? 12v, 6V or pseudo 12v with resistor?

If you have a voltmeter, pull the distributor cap and crank the engine til the points close. Leave the key switch on. Then take your voltmeter and measure voltage to ground at both sides of the key switch, to the battery side of the coil, to the distributor side of the coil and at the points terminal. You should have battery voltageo both sides of the key switch and at the battery side of the coil,and near zero volts at the distributor side of the coil and at the points connection. Now crank the engine til the points OPEN. Measure the voltage to ground at the distributor side of the coil. It should be battery voltage. If it is not, the coil primary is open. If there is a resistor in the circuit then you"ll see battery resistance to the resistor(points closed), then 5.5-6.0 V down stream of the resistor to the battery side of the distributor and then near zero the rest of the way. points open you"ll see battery voltage to th distributor side of the coil.

Hope this helps you.