No start on 801

[725Gunner]

I have a 801 on 12v that I've been getting back into working order after my wiring harness burned up. All the wiring is replaced and the coil is new as well. I can't however get it to start now. The starter cranks and everything wants to turn. I checked today and I am not getting any spark. I had good voltage at the coil, and on the wire that goes to the center of the distributor. But no voltage at the little wire from the negative side of the coil to the distributor. Not sure if that should have voltage or not. I only get the voltage on the coil when I hit the start button, not sure if it should be there at all times. Do I need to replace/rebuild my distributor? Or is there something else I should be checking?

 

[Andy Wickiser]

I have a 801 on 12v that I've been getting back into working order after my wiring harness burned up. All the wiring is replaced and the coil is new as well. I can't however get it to start now. The starter cranks and everything wants to turn. I checked today and I am not getting any spark. I had good voltage at the coil, and on the wire that goes to the center of the distributor. But no voltage at the little wire from the negative side of the coil to the distributor. Not sure if that should have voltage or not. I only get the voltage on the coil when I hit the start button, not sure if it should be there at all times. Do I need to replace/rebuild my distributor? Or is there something else I should be checking?

Voltage at that point should be 0 when points are closed and Batt voltage (12V) when points are open. Check your points gap and also make sure they are opening and closing when engine is cranked. Also check that the wire is not grounded out at the distributor entry point (insulators, brass conductor etc.).

 

[725Gunner]

What am I looking for to see they are opening and closing?

 

[Andy Wickiser]

What am I looking for to see they are opening and closing?

Remove distributor cap, rotor, spring clip, dust cover to expose the points. When a high lobe on the distributor cam opens the points the gap should be .024 - .026", nominally .025. When cam is between high lobes the gap should close and you should have continuity to ground. Sometimes you might find the points welded closed. I bet you could find a YouTube video that explains all of this.

 

[Eman85]

I'll guess that it's negative ground. positive side of the coil should be powered by the ignition switch, it should have power when the switch is in the on position. The negative side of the coil goes to the points and the points toggle the voltage to ground as they open and close causing the primary circuit to collapse in the coil which creates the high voltage needed to fire the spark plugs.
Do you have a test light? A test light with the wire connected to ground should light up when touched to the positive side of the coil with the key on. You can then touch the test light to the negative side of the coil and spin the engine with the key on and the light should blink if all is working correctly.
I have no idea what you were measuring at the wire in the center of the distributor. You should also have a spark tester that is adjustable and will open to 1/4" What coil did you use? Do you know what the resistance of the coil is measured between the pos. and neg terminals with nothing hooked to it measured in ohms?

 

[used red MN]

What am I looking for to see they are opening and closing?

Circled in the picture.