no terminal block in wiring

[tn8n]

whoever wired my tractor before I got it didn't use a terminal block, and every diagram I look up shows a terminal block. (the two post one under the dash) The term block is still on it, but it's completely painted over and I can't tell the condition of it. I'm beginning to wonder if it would be better to either purchase or make a new wiring harness, and include a terminal block this time.

my only hold up is the tractor works fine now, but i'm wondering if it would be easier later on to have it done "correctly" if/when problems arise and I need troubleshooting help. right now it's so mixed up i can't refer to a diagram to explain what i have going on.

as you know my ammeter isn't working, but every diagram seems to show it wired through the terminal block, so i haven't been able to get it working. I would rather use a voltmeter that I have on hand, if i leave out the term block, where would the + post of the voltmeter need to go? i have a voltage regulator with three posts: BAT, ARM, and FLD, if that helps. and what would i need to do with the wires currently going to ammeter? it has one from the large post on the alt to the ammeter and from the other post to BAT on the VR.

I was thinking of re-doing it using one of the diagrams from this thread:
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=778394

Matt

 

[oldtanker]

OK it's a tractor. If you are using it some time in the future you are going to have wiring problems because that is the nature of things. If you rewire it they way it's supposed to be you can just refer to the wiring diagram to trouble shoot and repair the problem instead of just guessing. That would be my best reccomendation. I think you can order the terminal block from YT. The wiring harness too unless you are good with making your own.

As far as the battery/voltage gauge the + goes to + and the other side to -. If + ground then + to ground and - to the key switch. If - ground then the - goes to ground and the + to the switch. Both ways it needs to go through the switch so it isn't draining the battery when not being used.

Rick

 

[tn8n]

I agree, I think in the end replacement is going to be best bet. Should have mentioned earlier, tractor is 12v negative ground. I am good with wiring, do it daily in my work as HVAC service tech, just not familiar yet with tractors! So if I go ahead with voltmeter for now, the + side will go to the ignition switch on the side that does [i:fb5e75af99]not[/i:fb5e75af99] get voltage until it is turned on, right? I tested the switch with my meter and determined which side is which.

The wire currently running from alternator, through ammeter to BAT terminal on VR, should I just replace it and go directly to BAT terminal from alternator?

Also, a question about digital meters, maybe for JMOR or Bruce, you say a cheaper digi meter won't read correctly due to interference, are you saying you need a True RMS meter? I have a $150 UEI Phoenix Pro meter for my work, but it is not True RMS. Somebody mentioned needing an "expensive" digital meter, not sure what their parameters are for "expensive".

Matt

 

[oldtanker]

A battery gauge has no need to be in the wiring circuit for the alt. Just needs to be hooked up to read whats in or at the battery.

What they are referring to is that cheap digi meters don't work well because of interference from the ignition system while it's running. A cheap analog works well though or a more expensive meter.

I have an expensive RMS meter but wonder about problems cause I can't remember when the last time I used one on a running engine. Almost all my trouble shooting can be done with the engine off and about the only thing I check running is genny/alt output.

Rick