Normal operating temperture??

[FMPreacher]

9N / fnt mnt dist / 12 volt
I cheated and removed the drain petcock on the side of the block when I was putting the tractor back together. And I installed a temperture guage sensor there with the guage on the dash. The question is, I've put in a new 180 degree thermostat but the tractor only gets up to 140-160 degree's after about an hours bushhogging on a 70 degree day and the engine doesn't really feel very hot to the touch. I think the guage is close to accurate??? Does this seem normal to you guy's? I wonder if the thermostat isn't defective?
God Bless You & Your "N"

 

[DON TX]

Unless you installed a 180* t-stat, the normal is 160*. Have you checked to see if the radiator is flowing when warmed up? That'll tell ya what's going on. The temp sensor blank is near the left front side of the head on later 8N's. The t-stat must be opening to keep it that cool. Maybe opening at 160 and closing at 140. HTH
DON TX

 

[36 Coupe]

Sensor is in the wrong place,you are reading water temp after it has been thru the radiator and cooled.Sensors have been in the head for ever.Use a meat thermometer to check the temperature in the radiator top tank.You have to tap the cylinder head or top hose to get the right reading.

 

[Jim in Western MI]

Our tractors have a tremendous capacity for cooling, so they never get "hot" like modern auto engines, which are designed differently. And while your sensor is in the wrong location to display the "hottest" temp, if you see the reading going from 160 to 190, you would know something is amiss (debris in radiator fins, low coolant, etc.). So it still helps you even in that location.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Your cheating got you no were a waste of time...

 

[Hobo,NC]

You really don't believe that do ya... If that's true every system is overbuilt put tape over the gauge/light...

 

[Dell (WA)]

Preacher........as convenient as the side-of-block drain would seem to measure engine temperature, it is effectively measuring radiator outlet temperature. You want to measure ENGINE outlet temperature. (thats that BIG nozzle on flathead) Many flatheads have a "boss" that you haffta drill and tap for "sealed" temperature gauge. Others figger-out a copper-pipe scheme with brazed mounting boss to be cut-into the top radiator hoze (between the radiator toptank and yer new hoze mounted thermostat)

With 12V, you might gitt lucky and find an electric temperature meter to fit that new hoze boss. I know of NO 6V electric temperature meters. .......HTH, Dell

 

[GB in MT.]

[b:d3b64b1611][i:d3b64b1611]
UH Jim;
"Our tractors have a tremendous capacity for cooling, so they never get "hot" like modern auto engines, which are designed differently"
end quote

You will Never convince me of THAT!!! Check the archives, with my signature on them!!!!

GB :shock: [/i:d3b64b1611][/b:d3b64b1611]

 

[Jim in Western MI]

Mr. GB,

I yield to your more excellent knowledge and experience, and was only trying to make two really simple points. One, while internal combustion engines are obviously alike, newer engines have closer tolerances; example, cooling systems (relatively smaller radiators and less volume of coolant) in our cars can't take the cooling fins being full of dust and grass debris and still cool like these old N radiators, nor are they designed to do that. Two, that location for a temperature probe is not optimal or desirable, but (if he didn't have a tap to do it right in the head boss, or the skill to do it) would still inform the operator if something was going wrong by an increasing temperature. Yes, I agree it is not great, even good, just better than nothing if he would see the change. Not trying to usurp the best practices, just noting that some can't get to the optimum like those of you with the outstanding skills, experiences, parts, and capabilities. If I'm to apologize for the comments, I do so....

 

[GB in MT.]

[b:5e5a9c5ae5][i:5e5a9c5ae5]
Firstly Jim;
you say"If I'm to apologize for the comments, I do so...."?????
There is NO need for you to think that I would ever ask you for an appology for saying what you think is right!!!
My statement was only made, to express my feelings to your statemnt when you said,,
"Our tractors have a tremendous capacity for cooling, so they never get "hot" like modern auto engines" end quote".....that is the part that I do not think is something I would ever be able to believe, especially after me having to Re-dismantle my 2N's engine, to replace rings, that were like bricks and a headgasket that was toast, after the engine coolant and oil got so hot it Baked the secondary rings.
And the referal to the archives, was meant, in hopes that others would read my post about that problem!!!!
All this was caused by the thermostat sliding up the hose and blocking off the coolant to the radiator, and a 2N owner that did not insure that the thermostat, could not break loose!!!!
If I had installed a heat gauge, in the front/side of the head, while overhauling the engine......I would not have had to do any of the afore mentioned mech. work a second time!!

NO APPOLIGIZING nesessary, by you or anyone else for that matter.
You have every right to your opinion, as do I!!! :wink:

Have an "N" week!!!

Respectfully
Gary
[/i:5e5a9c5ae5][/b:5e5a9c5ae5]

 

[Jim in Western MI]

Thank you, GB. I used an incomplete phrase when referring to never (which is too broad a descriptor anyway..., "never" and "always" will get anyone in trouble). The intent was that "When everything is working normally, these engines seldom overheat because they have such a large capacity for cooling." I was thinking in terms of frontal area of cooling and quarts of coolant per horsepower being so much greater than in modern auto engines. I will try to be more descriptive.

 

[8N-Bob]

Yes the temperature being taken from the block is not the best. But with all things being equal. I have a 190° T-Stat with the temp gage in the drain position. It came that way and some time I'll move it to the head. I can work the tractor brush hogging will that will bring the temp gage to 145° to 150°. If I see it climb I know it's time to blow the Raidator out. Just make sure you keep a kean eye since it is the chilled water from the Rad. and the block is slow to react to over heating. If the block gets to 180 or 190 the head is prob in the close to warp temps.

Keep it cool
Bob