Odd 130 problem

Bigwade

Member
My 130 has developed a rather odd problem. It will start no problem, run for about 1-5minutes and die. It’s dying like it’s fuel starving. I have tested with 2 carbs a zenith and a carter with the same result. Pulled the hose and let it just run in a jug with strong flow. Checked compression, 150 in all. New coil, new points and condenser. At this point I’m getting rather stumped. Any suggestions?
 
My 130 has developed a rather odd problem. It will start no problem, run for about 1-5minutes and die. It’s dying like it’s fuel starving. I have tested with 2 carbs a zenith and a carter with the same result. Pulled the hose and let it just run in a jug with strong flow. Checked compression, 150 in all. New coil, new points and condenser. At this point I’m getting rather stumped. Any suggestions?
Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes. If you have that put the old condenser back in good chance the new one if junk right out of the box. I haven't replaced a condenser in well over 20 years now
 
When it quits do you have fire to the plugs? Or do you have gas in carb? Could be fuel flow or spark issue. Just because parts are new they may not be good.
 
When it quits do you have fire to the plugs? Or do you have gas in carb? Could be fuel flow or spark issue. Just because parts are new they may not be good.
Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes. If you have that put the old condenser back in good chance the new one if junk right out of the box. I haven't replaced a condenser in well over 20 years now
Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes. If you have that put the old condenser back in good chance the new one if junk right out of the box. I haven't replaced a condenser in well over 20 years

The line by itself could fill up a pint jar in less than a minute on full blast but measuring from the drain on the carb it’s taking almost 3 minutes to fill up.
 
My 130 has developed a rather odd problem. It will start no problem, run for about 1-5minutes and die. It’s dying like it’s fuel starving. I have tested with 2 carbs a zenith and a carter with the same result. Pulled the hose and let it just run in a jug with strong flow. Checked compression, 150 in all. New coil, new points and condenser. At this point I’m getting rather stumped. Any suggestions?
Couple things come to my mind. one---fuel cap vent. When it dies take the fuel cap off and listen for vacuum noise then try starting it without cap.
two---something getting it fuel tank standpipe. then when tractor quits it floats off. This is a tricky one. I had a moth or horsefly or similar get sucked into fuel tank outlet on the 706. When it would quit I would take fuel line off, slip a rubber hose over line and blow backwards in tank. Would start right up. Might run for 15 minutes or might run for 4 hours and then happen again so I new there was something in that tank but shine in with flashlight and never saw anything. Finally one time when I looked in, there it was. Must have been in the fuel barrel hose or nozzle and then I pumped it into tank. I snatched it out of there with a flexible tongs and never had a problem after that. Was running fine for thousands of hours until I sold it.
 
A 130 does not need much fuel. There is a screen at the carb fitting that often gets plugged up. Make sure there is spark when it quits. Jim
Looks like the spark gets weak before it dies. Also it’s started spitting coolant out when it tries to start.
 
The line by itself could fill up a pint jar in less than a minute on full blast but measuring from the drain on the carb it’s taking almost 3 minutes to fill up.
If that is the case you have some sort of clog either in the carb elbow and if it still has the filter screen it probably needs to be cleaned
 
Hooked up a spark checker to the system. Looks like the spark grays out before dying. This was the same with old points, condenser, button, and coil. Changing those parts did not change the behavior. So at this point, I do wonder what is making the spark fade out.
 
Looks like the spark gets weak before it dies. Also it’s started spitting coolant out when it tries to start.
I would run a jumper wire from the battery or main post on the starter to the coil or resistor if it has one and give it a try. If it keeps running there is a problem in your ignition circuit. In my opinion the switch would be the first suspect. A jumper across the switch terminals would confirm or debunk that theory.
 
Hooked up a spark checker to the system. Looks like the spark grays out before dying. This was the same with old points, condenser, button, and coil. Changing those parts did not change the behavior. So at this point, I do wonder what is making the spark fade out.
BAD new condenser is most likely the problem put the old one back in and see if that helps
 
BAD new condenser is most likely the problem put the old one back in and see if that helps
It was doing the same thing with old condenser, possible bad old and bad new. I’m going to pull a known good off my super a and test it against both
 
Decided to check the whole electrical system. Between looks like a bad battery was actually the issue. Alternator would put out current just fine but when idled down the battery wasn’t charging so couldn’t pick up the slack.

Thanks everyone.
 
Decided to check the whole electrical system. Between looks like a bad battery was actually the issue. Alternator would put out current just fine but when idled down the battery wasn’t charging so couldn’t pick up the slack.

Thanks everyone.
Interesting. I've had bad ground connections give me similar fits.
 
Interesting. I've had bad ground connections give me similar fits.
It’s looking like the voltage regulator in the alternator may have went out. With test leads on the alternator it would jump from less than 10 to over 25 volts, so it’s done.
 
It’s looking like the voltage regulator in the alternator may have went out. With test leads on the alternator it would jump from less than 10 to over 25 volts, so it’s done.
The accuracy of your reading depends on how well your test meter filters out electrical noise from the ignition. Not disagreeing that your alternator is bad, that was my initial thought when you claimed the battery was bad. I would suggest you retest the voltage connecting to the battery an see what you get. Since you have a 12 volt conversion you system could be configured in many ways. If you have an ammeter is it showing a charge? Did it show a charge previously during operation? If it did but does not now that would be a pretty good second opinion that your alternator is bad.
 
The accuracy of your reading depends on how well your test meter filters out electrical noise from the ignition. Not disagreeing that your alternator is bad, that was my initial thought when you claimed the battery was bad. I would suggest you retest the voltage connecting to the battery a see what you get. Since you have a 12 volt conversion you system could be configured in many ways. If you have an ammeter is it showing a charge? Did it show a charge previously during operation? If it did but does not now that would be a pretty good second opinion that your alternator is bad.
Old ammeter never really showed much. I have a spare alternator so will swap it on and see.
 
Looks like the spark gets weak before it dies. Also it’s started spitting coolant out when it tries to start.
Spitting coolant is never normal. There are coolant test kits that show combustion gasses in coolant. Coolant should be about an inch above the cores in the radiator, not topped up. A compression check is also needed. Jim
 
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