oil based deck sealer

I like the Linseed Oil treatment idea and think it is just about fool proof. It really soaks in and I can't see how moisture could be a problem for a long time-Until I started treating wood for Internal wood structure for old cars like Model A Ford (1928-1931) which most were bare wood to start with and after 60 - 90 years mostly are rotted away. Unless they were always kept inside or Collector items those old cars just had a short life out under the trees. Anyway some of the so called Experts say linseed oil can be subject to insect eating the wood to get the plant based oil??? I am a little confused what is best but have seen the problems with most paint procedure and peeling?? I betting Linseed oil treatment would far outlast my life expectancy as 70 years old approaches?? Cleddy
 
I have a cedar deck.

I use Mold Armor house wash in a garden sprayer, straight outta the bottle, to clean it. Might need a scrub for stained areas. Follow package directions. Care should be used if plants/bushes are near the area.

I also use boiled linseed oil, 50/50 mix w/mineral spirits. I do it every 3-5 years or so. Never again will I use a stain or such. Way too much maintenance for me.

HTH...Don.
 
My late father-in-law used copious amounts of Thompson's on his deck. The result was a black coating that you tracked back into the house. We now own that house as a rental; I did my best to remove the layer of crud on the deck, then let it weather for twenty years. Last fall I power washed and sanded the deck, plus replaced a few splintered boards. This spring it will get a couple of coats of TWP or Penofin, whichever is cheapest.

I built the deck at our home over 25 years ago. I first treated it with Seasonite (no longer widely available), then Penofin a year later. It's had a couple Penofin refinishes over the years, and last year it was refinished with TWP. The deck still looks like new. I don't see a lot of difference between TWP and Penofin; both are good products and available pretty much everywhere. I think the Seasonite treatment had a lot to do with our deck's long life.
 
Mark
I built the deck at our home over 25 years ago.

A good chance 25 years ago there was a good CCA lumber.
AC2 lumber may last 10 years.

30 years ago I built a small deck with CCA and did nothing to it.
Still standing.
 
> 30 years ago I built a small deck with CCA and did nothing to it.
> Still standing.

I wouldn't have treated our deck after I built it, but my wife has different ideas about how a deck should look.

About the same time as when I built our deck, I helped a friend build his. His wife wanted cedar ($$$$$), so that's what he did. Big mistake. In the shade of maple trees, the cedar never had a chance to dry out and he ended up replacing all the deck boards. Now they're going bad again and this time he's using treated lumber. Lesson learned.
 
Mark,
I learned a valuable lesson today.
About 3 years ago someone on YT said they put used oil on the implement trailer deck wood.

This morning after a rain, the deck was like black Ice.

I put the terramite in reverse and I kept going forward.


I had to put the outriggers down to get stopped. Scary.

cvphoto151619.jpg


cvphoto151621.jpg


Went to unload the terramite and it almost slid off the side of the trailer.

My next job is to apply soap and pressure wash off the oil.
 
Geo I think On one of those what should I coat my trailer deck with questions. Said oil is fine when dry just sucks slippery when wet. Been there. Had some oil leak from a piece of equipment I haulled and left that part of the floor slippery when wet. Was not a big area so just walked around it for a year or 2.
 
I used redwood on two decks back when we built our house in the 70s. My dad was in construction and got a good deal on it. 2x6s for the deck and 4x4 posts and 2x4s for the rails. I used Stadium Seat Coat from the Flood Co. Went right to the plant and got it in 5 gallon pails. Great stuff, water repellant and penetrating. I used it on the cedar siding too and it still looks good. Years later my neighbor built and asked me what I used. He tried to get it and the company rep said their CWF is the same thing. NOT EVEN CLOSE. Don't know if anything is made like that or if Flood is even still in business. They were known for Penetrol paint additive. The old Seat Coat would leave a sore rash on skin contact. BTW, redwood holds up well but does not look like redwood after is weathers, turns blackish and the end grain rotted with age.
 
(quoted from post at 12:04:53 04/04/23) Mark,
I learned a valuable lesson today.
About 3 years ago someone on YT said they put used oil on the implement trailer deck wood.

This morning after a rain, the deck was like black Ice.

Used engine oil is the worst thing you can put on wood. Especially on wood that you walk on or use to haul things on.

Hydraulic oil is by far a better choice. It soaks deep into wood and does not cause a slick surface plus it is a thousand times cleaner.

Thompsons is a bottom of the barrel wood finish. Be it "water seal" or polyurethane finish. It all is garbage and is only good for a year or two. Behr deck over is another useless product that is not worth wasting the gas to haul home.
 
> About 3 years ago someone on YT said they put used oil on the implement trailer deck wood.

Dumping used oil on your trailer deck never sounded like a good idea to me. In fact, I never understood why anyone would want to treat their trailer deck boards in the first place. Either they'll rot or they won't, and no amount of oil or deck stain will change that.
 
These are 10 year old deck boards. They rotted because of a rug trapped in water.
cvphoto151668.jpg


A year after putting oil on implement deck boards, 2 deck boards
rotted.

I replaced the implement deck boards with CCA lumber, special order from Menards.
 
> These are 10 year old deck boards. They rotted because of a rug trapped in water.

Yep. Unless it's very well-treated wood, deck boards will fail if they don't have an opportunity to dry out. That's what killed my buddy's cedar deck.

Something that folks miss when applying oil to deck boards is the end grain. That's the most vulnerable spot, since water is easily sucked into the end grain along with fungus spores. Wet/dry cycles suck spores deeper into the wood. Also, end grain will split ('check') if it isn't coated so it doesn't dry out faster than the rest of the board. Coating deck boards with oil isn't doing much good if the end grain doesn't get the same treatment.

When I built my deck, I treated the ends of each deck board with Seasonite as I nailed them down. Seasonite is basically propylene glycol with a bunch of additives, and it's intended for new pressure-treated lumber. It slows down the drying process so the wood doesn't split or check. The deck still looks like new almost thirty years later.
 
Here's my 28 year-old deck this morning. It rained last night. The deck was treated with TWP last spring.

Notice the deck boards show almost no sign of splitting or checking. I think that's due to the Seasonite treatment I did when I built it.

cvphoto151675.jpg
 
Had a coworker give me a partially filled can of Thompson's water seal and I put it on my deck, would have done more good if I had dumped it out on the bare ground. Local home care chain heavily promoted Joseph Behr paint & stains one summer. So we bought a couple gallon. Total ABSOLUTE waste of time and money. When the frost started leaving the ground the following spring the J. BEHR WEATHER SEAL started flaking off in big strips.
There used to be a bunch of guys who posted frequently to the And ALL other topics on the old Ford Powerstroke website, couple deck contractors posted that Thompson's and Behr's were pure crap, but Thompson's Water Seal Australian Tung Oil was a good durable coating. I had a Craftsman belt sander and bought a new Porter-Cable because I was an employee of a different division, and SON & I sanded all the crappy Coatings off and brushed on the Cabot's. After 5 years it still looked good. After 7-8 years it started looking slightly worn so we sanded again and recoated. Yes, 8 to 10 years wear life, been using it about 25 years now.
Ohh, the other thing, somebody brought up the topic of grills for grilling out, I mentioned I worked for Thermos Company for 3-4 years, I worked on the drinking fountain and water cooler side of the business, the Other side was building about a MILLION gas fired bar-b-que grills a year. That's where the real focus of the plant was. We made about 800,000 Water fountains and water coolers a year. The new Thermos grill I bought started falling apart within 2-3 months. Same guy with the Cabot's stain recommended a Weber grill, I got a Genesis grill, and it gets used several times a week all summer and it still cleans up nice and looks new! After 20-25 years.
 

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