Oil plug

[Hacke]

I’ll double check it, thank you. Bigger concern now is that I potentially have a nut floating around inside somewhere. The image you sent earlier figure 72 looks very similar but what they have labeled as oil level plug, on my machine seems to be where the return line is coming from the oil cooler up front.

I am not sure, but I think the nut is caged into the bracket some way.

I had an idea:

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

I am not sure, but I think the nut is caged into the bracket some way.

I had an idea:

View attachment 134905

 

[Hacke]

It is a stupid design, putting a screw in the area where level plugs are (should be) found. Generally, the plugs should have square heads, but it is easy to make an error. If you need to remove the tube, you need to remove the lid, anyhow, and they could have threaded the hole (or used a threaded bushing) and used a screw from the inside instead.

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

Correct, The nut is caged onto the tube support bracket. The tube has to be aligned with the hole in the housing for the screw to mate to the nut. If the tube is off the screw will not start.

 

[Hacke]

Correct, The nut is caged onto the tube support bracket. The tube has to be aligned with the hole in the housing for the screw to mate to the nut. If the tube is off the screw will not start.

On earlier models, the tube had just a push fit with an o-ring. I noticed that there is some sort of locking device on this one, a pair of 'retainers', #56. Perhaps the tube is not able to fall out because of this and the nut stays at the hole?

A bit longer screw with a grinded point could help to find the nut?

 

[Hacke]

On the other hand, if the spring (#36) for the linkage, which I think is for bypassing the flow control valve when the lift is lowered, is fastened the same way as earlier model 3000 (see image), it could pull the pipe away so the nut is too far away to be reached with a pointed screw.

 

[Koppyscott]

That makes me feel better just to know the nut isn’t just loose in there. Thank you both for that. Is it much of a process to open the top cover? I know that’s where the valves are for remotes. If it’s no big deal I wouldn’t mind opening it up, getting things back together the right way and getting a good look at everything’s general health. I’ve only owned this tractor since last winter but didn’t get it going until may. Rear end is the only fluid left I haven’t serviced yet. When I loosened drain plug to check for water about a month ago there was grime that came out too. Opening the lid would give me the chance to better flush that out.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Oh geez, this turned into way more than trying to replace a plug. So if I’m understanding correctly that screw does belong there, it’s just supposed to be threaded into a tube and not the oil level plug I thought it was.

That screw goes into a captive nut on a bracket that holds the pickup tube and strainer in place. It should have a plastic washer to seal it. The level plug is 1/4 NPT. If you have to take the cover off to fix the small screw that would be a good time to drill and tap the plug for a 3/8 NPT so you can keep the chips out of the fluid.

 

[Hacke]

The tube and paper filter (part number 84277192) in question are for the return oil. Even without them, your system is cleaned as it should on the inlet side through the spin-on filter on the pump.

 

[Hacke]

I saw a video about a 3600 on the Tube. Is it possible that you have a level plug, but it is of the type in the left lower corner and it is hiding under the dirt?

 

[Koppyscott]

Yes, I found that out today. I pulled the tire off so I could get in there better and once I scraped the oily crud off I found the plug I hadn’t seen before. That discovery was key to today’s success. I was able to go in the check plug’s hole with a pick and pull that pickup tube bracket back towards the screw hole. Align it with a screwdriver and was able to get the screw to grab the bracket.
Thank you, gentlemen for your help. I didn’t even know that issue was going on. Happy it didn’t end up being as big of a deal as it could have been. I really didn’t want to open things up. The oil is draining over night, I’ll finish servicing it tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

[ErnieD]

Yes, I found that out today. I pulled the tire off so I could get in there better and once I scraped the oily crud off I found the plug I hadn’t seen before. That discovery was key to today’s success. I was able to go in the check plug’s hole with a pick and pull that pickup tube bracket back towards the screw hole. Align it with a screwdriver and was able to get the screw to grab the bracket.
Thank you, gentlemen for your help. I didn’t even know that issue was going on. Happy it didn’t end up being as big of a deal as it could have been. I really didn’t want to open things up. The oil is draining over night, I’ll finish servicing it tomorrow. Thanks again.

no narcotic like success

 

[Hacke]

Yes, I found that out today. I pulled the tire off so I could get in there better and once I scraped the oily crud off I found the plug I hadn’t seen before. That discovery was key to today’s success. I was able to go in the check plug’s hole with a pick and pull that pickup tube bracket back towards the screw hole. Align it with a screwdriver and was able to get the screw to grab the bracket.
Thank you, gentlemen for your help. I didn’t even know that issue was going on. Happy it didn’t end up being as big of a deal as it could have been. I really didn’t want to open things up. The oil is draining over night, I’ll finish servicing it tomorrow. Thanks again.

Great news!
So, the operator's manual is correct about the plug.

 

[Rbellucci]

It's likely an NPT thread, not a standard bolt thread. For that specific check plug on the 335 (which is definitely common with the 3600s), you need a 1/4-inch National Pipe Taper plug. Skip the hardware store bolts, they won't seal right. If you used Teflon tape before, that confirms it's a pipe thread trying to seal a slightly leaky connection. Get a proper brass or steel pipe plug.

 

[Jim.ME]

It's likely an NPT thread, not a standard bolt thread. For that specific check plug on the 335 (which is definitely common with the 3600s), you need a 1/4-inch National Pipe Taper plug. Skip the hardware store bolts, they won't seal right. If you used Teflon tape before, that confirms it's a pipe thread trying to seal a slightly leaky connection. Get a proper brass or steel pipe plug.

Welcome to the forums.

If you follow the thread through, you will see that his issue turned out to be the screw that holds the tube inside the case was not engaged in the bracket nut on the tube. It was not the NPT level plug as originally thought.

 

[Welding man]

I’ll double check it, thank you. Bigger concern now is that I potentially have a nut floating around inside somewhere. The image you sent earlier figure 72 looks very similar but what they have labeled as oil level plug, on my machine seems to be where the return line is coming from the oil cooler up front.

Ther is no nut, it is attached to the bracket. Take the side cover off the other side and have a helper push it over and against the other side and install the screw. No big deal.

 

[Jim.ME]

Ther is no nut, it is attached to the bracket. Take the side cover off the other side and have a helper push it over and against the other side and install the screw. No big deal.

Post # 31, he got it fixed.