Oil pressure gage.

[wcurley000]

I am replacing the oil pressure gage on my ford Jubilee. Can someone tell me where the line goes to the crankcase? The old line was cut off and I cannot find a plug that looks like it would work on the engine.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:48:20 11/27/18) I am replacing the oil pressure gage on my ford Jubilee. Can someone tell me where the line goes to the crankcase? The old line was cut off and I cannot find a plug that looks like it would work on the engine.

ngine block behind the hydraulic pump.

 

[wcurley000]

Do I need to take off the hydraulic pump?
I talked to you earlier about carb problems and distributor. I found that the mechanical advance in the distributor has broken springs and ordered a replacement. I hope that cures the rough running.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:37:37 11/27/18) Do I need to take off the hydraulic pump?
I talked to you earlier about carb problems and distributor. I found that the mechanical advance in the distributor has broken springs and ordered a replacement. I hope that cures the rough running.

aybe you can finagle a way without pump removal, but I couldn't.

 

[wcurley000]

Do you think replacing the distributor will solve my problem with starting and running rough?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:26:02 11/27/18) Do you think replacing the distributor will solve my problem with starting and running rough?

an't say for sure, but if I had to bet $ on it I would bet that it won't be a cure. Why? Because an engine will run just fine without centrifugal advance when it is locked/frozen at minimum position and static advance set to normal initial plus centrifugal total. If broken in such a way that it was free to flop around at random between min & max, then it might fix your problem.

 

[wcurley000]

It was not locked in place. At least I was able to move the mechanism around easily.

 

[catalina0029]

This is where mine is. Mine is a '64 4000 with a 172 engine. Yours might be different.

 

[souNdguy]

see if there is any line left. many people pinch the line off with a few inches still on the fitting. if yes, you can carefully
cut the line and use a 1/8 union and some copper cap line and union in a piece.

 

[wcurley000]

I converted it to 12v. It really turns over faster and started right up but was running rough at idle. So, attempted to adjust the timing. I marked the beginning position, but no matter where I adjusted it, it ran worse and started to backfire. Removed the lower distributor plate and found it had a lot of debris in it. Then marked the distributor position and removed the distributor. Found the broken springs and more debris. I think it may have been locked in the closed position until I tried to adjust the timing. The centrifugal advance was free to move after I cleaned out the debris. I ordered a new distributor and it should be here in 3or 4 days.
Do you have any suggestions before I install the new distributor???????
It has always run a little rough at idle.
Also, seems to run rich on fuel. The carb is an after market about 4-5 years old bought from YT. Have cleaned it numerous times, in fact had it apart before I adjusted the timing.[/b]

 

[wcurley000]

Ya, mine is a 53 Golden Jubilee and it doesn't look like that.

 

[pinball]

did you install an inline filter just before your carb. would suspect you probably need a new carb if you had that apart several times. there pretty cheap on ebay.

 

[TinCan]

When I first read this, I said "Oh Crap! I just put most everything back on, on that side of my engine, and left the darn oil line on the bench!

I was able today to get it started on with a needle nose pliers, and then tighten it with a wrench. Wheeew!

Pat