Oil pump cover update

BigTone

Member
Finally got to the cover today, sanded
fairly easily. Huge difference, i,dont
have a great straight edge, im using a 6
inch Square, does the cover have too be
100% flat? I can see a little light but I
can see an equal amount on tge housing when
I check that...my guess is 2 gaskets
torqued down will be good, some have said
plastigauge it but i have no clue how to do
that. The video on YouTube said put it
together and if it spins free install it,
what do you guys think? Thanks Anthony
cvphoto37163.jpg


cvphoto37164.jpg
 
Now that I look at the picture i can still slightly see where the gear sat, there is zero lip, feels very smooth, but there is a shadow if that makes sense, you can see it slightly but not feel it.
 

2 gaskets will probably seal it up, but that will also reduce the oil pressure. Original gasket was very thin, and I believe different thickness gaskets were available so the technician could "fine tune" the oil pressure.
 

"some have said plastigauge it but i have no clue how to do that"

Lay 2 or 3 short lengths of plastigage on the ends of the gears, install cover with gasket and snug down the bolts while being careful not to turn the pump shaft/gears which would tear the plastigage, then take it back apart and match the squashed with of the plastigage strips against the "scale" on the plastigage packet.

That will give you the clearance, 0.002" to 0.005" would be a reasonable range, IMHO.

More and you loose pumped volume of oil and hence, oil pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 14:36:35 09/22/19) tape the emery paper to a piece of glass, it will be flat.

Would be best to stop by a glass company and ask them if they have any scraps of plate glass. Maybe something over 1/4 inch thick. Normal window glass is kind of thin and might break easy plus it will flex a little!

I would start with something in the area of 220 grit and then finish with around 600 grit.

I did not see what this pump was for, is it an internal pump or one mounted externally?
 
As I said I'm not aware of what this pump is off but just checked the spec's for my BN: End clearance for gears is .0035 to .006 inch
and the clearance between the gear teeth and housing is .0053 to.0083 inch.

Not sure of the condition of the gears being used or the inside of the housing at the other end of the gears.

If this is an internal pump one could assemble without any gasket and with maybe a thin coat of sealant if the end clearance is a bit on the high side.

Many big Diesel engines with internal pump don't bother with a gasket. Even some fuel pumps like on a Detroit Diesel that are externally mounted don't use anything more than a thin coat of Permatex to seal the castings.
 
The glass idea works great. I go to the hardware store and buy wet/dry sandpaper. It is usually black in color around here. Lay it on the glass and spray it with a good amount of WD-40. Let it set for a few minutes and then sand away. Use light pressure, change direction and don't stay in the same spot on the sandpaper. If it dries out or gets loaded up with metal, spray with more WD-40. I lay my glass on an old bath towel to cut down on the mess and it keeps the glass from sliding around. Ready made red neck surface plate. I have even done small gas engine blocks and heads on mine. Just take your time.
 
Put just one gasket in it and you'll be good to go. I had a piece of the gasket completely missing in my Super C...been good since then
 
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