OIL PUMP

[Jerry Hillman again]

How can I tell if I need to replace the oil pump body. The gears have a lot of backlash in them. If I hold the pump body in one hand, I can wiggle the biggest gear side to side by 1/16th of an inch. This opens up a lot of room between the two smaller gears. Is this shaft wear or wear in the oil pump body? The book tells how much wear is permissable, but does not tell how to disassemble the gears to get at the shafts to measure it. I will replace all if I need to, but I have spent a lot of money on various repairs that turned out to not be necessary and since I am now unemployed I need to conserve my cash, but I also need to get this tractor running again. Right now it has zero oil pressure. I tried priming the pump and replacing the oil pressure control pin. Didn't help.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 16:49:34 06/28/09) How can I tell if I need to replace the oil pump body. The gears have a lot of backlash in them. If I hold the pump body in one hand, I can wiggle the biggest gear side to side by 1/16th of an inch. This opens up a lot of room between the two smaller gears. Is this shaft wear or wear in the oil pump body? The book tells how much wear is permissable, but does not tell how to disassemble the gears to get at the shafts to measure it. I will replace all if I need to, but I have spent a lot of money on various repairs that turned out to not be necessary and since I am now unemployed I need to conserve my cash, but I also need to get this tractor running again. Right now it has zero oil pressure. I tried priming the pump and replacing the oil pressure control pin. Didn't help.

The problem with replacing the oil pump is that it is a part of the main bearing. And if you replace that bearing cap, you need to have the block align bored. So you want to retain that if at all possible. The shaft, gears, shaft bushing are all available & replaceable, Biggest problem here is that the bushing needs to be burnished or reamed to fit the shaft after installation and isn't always easy to find the tool for that operation.
A local machine shop can probably do the operation or you might find someone on the boards to do it or loan/sell you the tool. If ordering those gears , there are two thicknesses or widths in use so you need to get the same size as currently in your pump.

 

[Dan]

Your bushing needs to be replaced and reamed. Most machine shops I have seen do not have the correct sized reamer for this oil pump - it must have been an odd size(?). I lucked out a few years back and found an original Ford oil pump bushing reamer on eBay from a Model T guy (maybe Model A). Anyway - the oil pump is the same as on our tractors. I have reamed 4 so far and it is perfect.

Dan

 

[teddy52food]

Find a shop with a Sunnen hone to have the bushing fitted to the shaft. It will be a better longer lasting fit.

 

[Jerry Hillman again]

I am not interested in the antique tractor value of this old tractor. I need a tractor that will work. Maybe I should sell it and buy a real tractor, like a John Deere maybe?

 

[BULLinAR]

HUH?????????????????? :?

A deer named John???

Is that a tractor?? :shock:

Just wait until you have to buy parts for a John Deer... Better have lots of money. I know from expierence... :roll:

BULL

 

[Jerry Hillman again]

I guess I am just frustrated with all the problems I have been having. Obviously I can't buy another tractor. I assume these gears are press fit? Any suggestions on how to get this pump apart without damaging it?

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 07:06:35 06/29/09) I guess I am just frustrated with all the problems I have been having. Obviously I can't buy another tractor. I assume these gears are press fit? Any suggestions on how to get this pump apart without damaging it?

The driven gear is a press fit on the shaft and there's a flat milled on the shaft to keep it from spinning under load. Press or drive the shaft out from the cavity side of the housing. The idler gear is a slip fit on the other shaft and will pretty much fall out when you turn the housing upside down.

The replacement bushing will need to be reamed to fit the (new)shaft. The key to proper reaming is not just the hole size - the reamer is precison ground to the proper size. What's equally important is getting the reamed hole concentric to the bushing bore in the housing. If it's off center the center spacing on the gears will be off and they will have improper gear lash and housing clearance. So the reaming is best done with either a bolt on jig or an accurate boring type machine - e.g. vertical mill or similar. Ideally you'd like to keep the concentricity within .001. IIRC the reamer is 9/16 - .05625. An inexpensive import chucking reamer that size will run you about $10-$15.

TOH

 

[Jerry Hillman again]

A machine shop close to me took the oil pump gears out, installed the new bushing, machined it to fit and installed the new gears, all for $30. I supplied the replacement parts. I was impressed. I put the tractor back together and now I have 32 pounds of oil pressure. Best this little tractor has ever had. I am happy, and now I can use it again.

 

[BULLinAR]

Good to hear Jerry...



BULL