Oil recommendations ????

[yukon73]

Changing engine oil in 8n I just bought....What are the recommendations of type and should I add any treatments to oil...thinking of adding RISLONE engine treatment ???????

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:17:40 01/11/15) Changing engine oil in 8n I just bought....What are the recommendations of type and should I add any treatments to oil...thinking of adding RISLONE engine treatment ???????

Any good quality SAE 10W30 oil will work just fine and is a near perfect modern day equivalent to the original Ford recommendations. Aftermarket additves won't buy you anything except a lighter wallet.

TOH

 

[Jimmyjack]

Spot on without knowing any more about the engine.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

See tip # 6.

As TOH said, you are wasting your money on oil additives.

Congrats on the new tractor. Don't forget the manuals (tip # 39)
75 Tips

 

[Nick167]

I agree with everyone else on the brand I just use wolfs head I think that's more a personal preference I use wolfs head because its cheap and that's what the auto store I go to sells

 

[Fuddy Duddy]

Depends on engine. If not burning oil go with 10/30. if worn use a
heavier oil like 10/40. If it's been sitting a while ad a pt. of ATF to
oil and a Pt. to fuel. No other additives should be needed.

 

[Dell (WA)]

yukon73.......you do know in 1939, Ford specified 30wt DETERGENT oil, don't you? Ford also recommended 40wt det for HOT weather use. (+90F) Modern multi-vis oils are so much better. While TOH recommends 10-30wt, which is 10wt oil with temperature sensitivity additives that makes it act like 30wt oil when hot. Me? I like 20-50wt. Ya pays yer money and take yer choices. NO ADDITIVES needed. ......oily Dell

 

[maxwell99]

I use shell rotella 15w40 in my old tractor, this
oil still has a zinc additive for wear protection.

The old tractor likes it, runs and sounds good,
holds good oil pressure.

If I added anything to the oil I might start out
with Lucas oil stabilizer.

My friend had a number of over the road trucks, he
never changed oil in one without adding a gallon of
Lucas, some of them had four or five hundred
thousand miles, still ran good.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" I use shell rotella 15w40 in my old tractor, this oil still has a zinc additive for wear protection."

I also use Rotella 15w40 in my tractors, but not because of the zinc. I use it because the diesel requires it & I'm not going to have 3 grades of oil around here.

I saved this post from TOH to explain the zinc issue:

" The current level of phosphorous (the anti-wear element is not zinc - it is the phosphorus that comes with the zinc in the ZDDP additive) is more than adequate for the valve train on a 25HP low RPM flat tappet engine with 30# valve spring pressures. It is also a little higher than the levels you would have found in the vast majority of 1940-1960 engine oil formulations. The truth is most "old school" flat tappet production engines are perfectly happy at 600-800 PPM phosphorous.

And if you have a "high performance" engine that actually needs a higher level of phosphorous you don't have to go to diesel oils to get it. The SL/SM service class limits on zinc/phosphorous only apply to viscosity grades SAE xxW20 and xxW30. An SAE xxW40 grade SL or SM service class oil can have as much as 1400 PPM.

Anything much more than that and the zinc and phosphorous will start to chemically eat the metal away accelerating camshaft and tappet wear. So make sure you understand the chemistry and be mighty careful what you are adding to your oil. "

" he never changed oil in one without adding a gallon of Lucas, "

Your friend might want to do some research on the topic of oil additives. Most of them just waste money; some are actually harmful. Here is one of many sources:

http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
75 Tips

 

[wellmax99]

I use the shell rotella 15w40 in my dodge diesel truck.

so based on the writeup would you not use shell rotella in gas tractor?

I read somewhere that the EPA was pulling the zinc out of std car and truck oils as it is a hazardous chemical. so if they take the zinc out then are they also taking the phosphorus additive out?

Question: can you buy the phosphorus additive, if you want extra protection for the old engines.

my old tractor is worn and old like me, when at operating temp it just holds a better oil pressure with the shell rotella 15w40 oil.

guess I will continue using it,

thanks for the write up, gives more information on oil.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 01:12:38 01/12/15) yukon73.......you do know in 1939, Ford specified 30wt DETERGENT oil, don't you? Ford also recommended 40wt det for HOT weather use. (+90F) Modern multi-vis oils are so much better. While TOH recommends 10-30wt, which is 10wt oil with temperature sensitivity additives that makes it act like 30wt oil when hot. Me? I like 20-50wt. Ya pays yer money and take yer choices. NO ADDITIVES needed. ......oily Dell

Read your Ford 8N or 9N Operator's Manual. Just in case you don't have one or have missplaced it I have attached a screenshot from the lubrication page below.

Ford never recommended anything heavier than SAE 30. Their recommendation was SAE 10W, SAE 20W, SAE 20, or SAE 30 mon-grade oil chosen to match ambient operating temperatures. That is EXACTLY what SAE 10W30 provides in a single multi-grade oil.

I won't waste my time explaining yet again why your "it's really SAE 10 and only acts like SAE 30" comment exhibits a total lack of understanding of how engine oil viscosity is measured and graded. You don't want to know and prefer to continue to spew FUD.

[i:2effcf2195][b:2effcf2195]FUD[/b:2effcf2195]
fəd/
noun
fear, uncertainty and doubt, usually evoked by the intentional use of incomplete facts or misinformation in order to put a competitor or product at a disadvantage.
[/i:2effcf2195]

TOH

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 10:48:49 01/12/15) I use the shell rotella 15w40 in my dodge diesel truck.

so based on the writeup would you not use shell rotella in gas tractor?

I read somewhere that the EPA was pulling the zinc out of std car and truck oils as it is a hazardous chemical. so if they take the zinc out then are they also taking the phosphorus additive out?

Question: can you buy the phosphorus additive, if you want extra protection for the old engines.

my old tractor is worn and old like me, when at operating temp it just holds a better oil pressure with the shell rotella 15w40 oil.

guess I will continue using it,

thanks for the write up, gives more information on oil.

The EPA is not taking zinc or phosphorous out of the oil because they are hazardous chemicals. The EPA mandated that all new vehicles come with a 80K mile warranty on the catalytic converter. They don't care how the industry does it as long as they do it and they have simalar warranty requirements for other air quality related systems - e.g. EGR, evap, etc.

Auotmobile manufactureres working in conjunction with the blenders have embarked on a program to reduce phosphorous levels in gasoline engine oils in order to prolong the life of catalytic converters. To that end they and the API have developed new gasoline engine oil requirements that specify a MINIMUM of 600 PPM phosphorous and a MAXIMUM of 800 PPM. Those limits only apply to the xxW30 and XXw20 viscosity grades. There are no minimum or maximum levels for zinc specified in the new standards.

The traditional source of phophorous in engine oil is a compound called zinc dithiophosphate. It contains both zinc and phosphorous with roughly 10% more zinc than phosphorous by content. When you limit phosphorous you limit the amount of ZDDP that can be used. Zinc from other sources is not limited and blenders can dump as much as they want into any oil. They don't because high levels of zinc isn't beneficial.

Phosphorous levels of 600 PPM are more than sufficient to protect against flat tappet wear in the the vast majority of production flat tappet engines. That has been thoroughly tested and documented by many different people. Very high performance (e.g. race) engines can and do benefit from higher levels of phosphorous. That too has been thoroughly tested and documented.

In the early 70's hotter running production engines began to exhibit problems with excessive oxidation of the engine oil. It was discovered that increased levels of ZDDP helped prevent this oxidation and as a consequence blenders increased the ZDDP levels to around 1200+ PPM to combat oil oxidation

Over the next 40 odd years new catalyst friendly anti-oxidant additives have been developed and modern oils no longer need high levels of ZDDP to fight oxidation and the levels have been reduced back to to the 600-800 PPM needed for wear protection. You can expect to see further reductions in phosphorous (e.g. ZDDP) levels as blenders continue to develop and adopt alternative anti-wear compounds based around elements like molybdenum (Mo) and boron (B) instead of phosphorous.

Old and worn out or not an N-series engine never needed and will not benefit from phosphorous levels higher than 800 PPM. That is also true for the VAST majority of production flat tappet engines.

TOH

 

[L. B.]

Oil is a game and a con job to make people
think if you dont use XYZ oil the motor will
seize within a 5 min period after start up,
lobes on the cam will be galled and main and
rod bearings will burnish themselves onto the
crank. You can use walmart oil or royal purple
if its SAE that is all you need. I use Rotella
10-30 in the winter 10-40 summer and 15-40 in
my 2 work tractors and trucks year round. The
reason is it is a good no hype oil and I can
get it anywhere. I have a retired pre World War
2 tractor that I used 30W Non-det oil in when
it was my work tractor, over 35 yrs it still
has that flavor in it today. The biggest rip
off the oil makers have going is to change oil
3000 mi. or 3 mos which ever comes first, I go
5000 to 7500 on my gas cars and trucks, thats
me and this is not a recommendation it is just
what I do. Diesel motors are different they
need to follow manufactures recommendations as
diesel motors are a world apart from a gaser. I
dont know what the org decal said on Ns oil
filter housing but the decal sets I have
now say Change Cartridge When Oil On Dipstick
Darkens??? So do you change just the filter and
not the oil??? Thats my ?