oil

[jd man wis]

I heard that a mix of trans oil and acetone is one of the best rusted frozen nut and bolt combo to use on them. I was thinking of trying it what you guys think of this or what works good for you. My brother in law says that he uses Kroil oil and that works the best. ? Thanks.

 

[old]

Straight ATF NO acetone. I keep a pump oil can full of ATF for bolts etc.

 

[Steve@Advance]

It's rare that penetrating oil will actually "penetrate" the rust enough to do much good unless you can get some movement between the frozen components. But do give it a try, can't hurt.

Heat is generally the best solution if safe and practical for the application.

For nuts, just heat it up, generally red hot, take it off.

For bolts, heat it up, let it cool, repeat the cycle a few times. Don't try to turn it hot, it will twist off. Once out, discard it.

 

[showcrop]

JDman, you heard right. you can watch the scientific test on You tube.

 

[Indiana Ken]

I have not found a trans oil that will mix with acetone. I don't understand how this myth continues.

 

[jd man wis]

Thanks guys for the replies I seen this on u tube from my grandson and he thought that it would be some help for me on this old tractors. There seems to be that people try things like this home made remedy that work good.

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 05:08:13 10/23/19)
I have not found a trans oil that will mix with acetone. I don't understand how this myth continues.

You have to shake it up real well right before use (just like you have to do with some penetrating fluids), if you let it just sit it will separate after a while just like some penetrating fluids will.

 

[old]

The problem with acetone is that is does not stay mixed up with the ATF so it really does not help much is any

 

[old]

I've found that heat along with pouring ATF on after it is hot works very well even if the ATF catches fire but one does have to be careful so as to control the fire

 

[Steve@Advance]

And candle wax!

Heat it up and touch a candle to it, supposed to draw the wax in as it cools.

 

[Mark-Ia]

I think the Acetone mixed with ATF is to make the ATF thin enough to get into places it wouldn't normally be able to access. The acetone will evaporate but get the ATF where it needs to be.

 

[lastcowboy32]

(quoted from post at 07:09:03 10/22/19) I heard that a mix of trans oil and acetone is one of the best rusted frozen nut and bolt combo to use on them. I was thinking of trying it what you guys think of this or what works good for you. My brother in law says that he uses Kroil oil and that works the best. ? Thanks.

So, crazy idea, don't try this at home, but I'm going to express my curiosity anyway.

What about dairy milkstone remover (which is an acid) first?. I've found that this is a fantastic rust remover. It literally etches it away.

I've never seen anybody suggesting a few drops of this to etch rust first, letting things sit for a while and then trying heat and/or penetrating oil, so maybe there is an issue with...what?

reacting with the penetrating oil?
etching away metal with the rust?
corrosive residuals?

Not sure.

All I know is that I soaked some parts that were rusted together in dairy milkstone remover to get rid of the rust before restoration. It got rid of the rust, and the parts just fell apart. I didn't have to beat on them or heat them. Granted, these weren't threaded parts, like bolts and nuts, it was a clamp over a piece of thick metal rod.

I only mention this, because there are some places that are too close to wiring, rubber booted parts or other things to use very much heat on, especially enough to get a part cherry red.

In those cases, after a couple of bouts of trying various penetrating oils/ATF, etc. I ended up just breaking the bolt/nut off and having to drill and re-tap. If I had to do it again, after my experience with milkstone remover as an actual rust dissolver, I would be tempted to use a syringe to surgically dose the part with some and give it a while to dissolve some rust away before trying any kind of penetrating oil.


For parts that can tolerate heat, just like others have said.... get out the acetylene wrench and make it cherry red, and then use wax on it as it cools (for bolts) or try to remove when still hot (for nuts).

 

[lastcowboy32]

My problem with acetone is the smell. I've never gotten into sniffing gas or paint to get high. I'm no huffer. But acetone? It's nail polish remover, and I suspect that half of the health problems that women have as they get older is from putting chemicals in their hair (ammonia) and huffing acetone every time they do their nails.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 09:05:09 10/24/19)
My problem with acetone is the smell. I've never gotten into sniffing gas or paint to get high. I'm no huffer. But acetone? It's nail polish remover, and I suspect that half of the health problems that women have as they get older is from putting chemicals in their hair (ammonia) and huffing acetone every time they do their nails.

That is an interesting suspicion.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I've used it all at one time or another. I like diesel fuel or some old pretty well oil filled solvent let it soak or keep applying it as I work the bolt or nut. It is thin and gets in where oils will not.
I've never had real good results with the snake oils in a can stuff. PB blaster stinks to high heaven and never could afford kroil.
The fastest is heat with the torch for things though.