Okay blade gurus....

[UncleCarl]

I've got a LexMark 60 inch zero turn. We've had it about two years now. got new blades when we first bought it. It seems like I'm sharpening the blades every 2 or 3 mowings now. I can't imagine what is causing them to dull like this. Mowing just glass, at an optimal speed and height. It just seems to me they should stay sharp longer.

I sharpen with a 4 inch angle grinder. I try to keep the original angle on the blade and try not to burn them, etc when grinding.

Is there something I'm doing wrong? Or is there a 'better blade' out there somewhere?

Thanks
Uncle Carl

 

[MtMan]

I use after market Oregon Blades on 60 inch Zero turn. I don't have to sharpen them real often and my lawn is 5 1/2 acres, believe it or not. What I'm wondering is if you maybe are sharpening them too sharp. I remember getting mine to be like a razor and they didn't last as long as the ones that I sharpen a little blunter. Good luck and just trying to help.

 

[UncleCarl]

Hmmm.....Too sharp? Really? Yeah that almost doesn't (but just might) make sense. Why in the world would it be like that? But anyway, I'll remember that. Thanks. And thanks for the inputs on the Oregon blades. I'll do with the ones I have this year and try your suggestion on the remainder of this year.

 

[rdandersom]

The old fellow that explained it to me as a kid described the best angle for a lawn mower blade as blunt yet sharp. A blade like a knife wears away quickly. Try something more like a chisel.

 

[Russ from MN]

I agree you are probably trying to get them too sharp! Check the angle, There are gauges available, 40 to 45 degrees is recommended. If you look at new blades, they're not real sharp, for 2 reasons, so people don't cut themselves on them, and it's not necessary.

 

[Lance Skene]

Take a close look at a new blade, it has a flat surface on the edge about a 32nd of an inch or so.

I maintain equipment for a landscape company and I sharpen using an angle grinder with a sand paper disc and then do a couple swipes lightly with a hand file to take the edge off.

 

[UncleCarl]

Makes sense Lance. Thanks.

 

[UncleCarl]

Yeah I'm definitely seeing a trend here. I'm sure that's what the problem is now. Thanks.

 

[UncleCarl]

Blunt yet sharp. Good thing to remember. Thanks.

 

[jeffcat]

One thing I did years ago. Take your new blades and stick them in a vice. Take that grinder and totally grind the edge off. At your local welding supply you can buy those blue tempered welding rods. Lay a good heavy bead down and proceed to sharpen them. As long as you do not hit any stones or such they will last a season. If you hit a stone it puts a chip in them. Also takes several hours to make and sharpen a set of blades. Those welds are Very hard. You will actually wear the grinding wheel out. Check these on Ebay. I know of a guy who sells them to customers like you. He said they last a little longer.

 

[RogerinIowa]

Look at Laser-edge.com. I just installed a set on a J D . Have yet to cut with them.

 

[ztrmowers]

trying to retire from lawnmower dealership, sounds me like you like them like razor, that's why you having trouble. also some are hard surfaced on backside and some not. I generally only do couple sharpes a season mowing about 5 acres . probably have set on wall that will fit your unit. their is big difference in blade quality out there

 

[Texasmark1]

I like Oregon products too. Use their blades and chains for saws. Great products, reasonable price.

 

[Bob - MI]

I too always bench a small flat on the edge with a file after grinding. I also work the underside of the blade to assure that I have no burrs from grinding hanging loose so I can get a better view of what the flat surface really looks like.

 

[Texasmark1]

Late comer to the thread but added comments to first reply:
Part of the reason for the dull front edge on the blade is also that it will tolerate dings better than a sharp point.

On which works better or is necessary, I was clipping some Bermuda grass a few days ago, with small, thin, in the growth mode stems (point of reference here) with a new 3 pt rotary mower (hog type thing usually referenced herein) and I wasn't getting the cut I wanted. Put a fine point/edge on the blades and got the desired result. On thick stems like Johnson Grass, the OEM edge worked just fine.....and yes I expect to knock chunks out of the edge if I get into rocks or such.....but I don't have that so no worry.