Old tire question.

[paul]

If they are holding air and you are driving around your property leave well enough alone. Maybe sort out where you can get a new tube or tire so you are prepared if something goes wrong.

If you are typically going down public roads 15 miles then you likely need new tires to feel safe for yourself and others.

Dismounting old weather checked tires, and putting in new (new tubes aren’t great quality these days) tubes invites about as much risk to fail tomorrow as you have currently. We are not sure what it is you are trying to accomplish by doing this. It is a puzzling question. Now if the tires are leaking currently, some of us cheapskates would try this and see if it gets us by for a while. But that’s only if there is already a problem.

Paul

 

[Jf family]

I'm a bit confused, and I think there may be some misunderstanding: You (OP) seem to be implying that you think tube replacement is still necessary. Are they leaking? You said they still hold air, so wondering why you want to replace the tubes? Just to clarify: Those of us that are suggesting running the old tires as-is (which is pretty much everyone here) are suggesting to keep running both the old tires and the old tubes as-is until they fail, which may likely be several years. I think your chances of re-using the old tires after they've been stuck on that long are low, because the bead might tear up when you go to break it. So just run everything as-is as long as they're holding air. You'd be surprised at some of the old tires with ancient tubes that are still holding up dandy during daily use.

Thanks for all the advice I appreciate it. I am 80 and also don't do as much as I used to and it takes twice as long!!!! Those old tires have tread, they are just leaking air slowly. Question, not familiar with fluid. Can I still blow more air in the tubes if they have fluid? Thanks again.

 

[paul]

If they have fluid and are leaking slightly then yes, I would put new tubes in. That is a good plan. Now we understand the issue. New tubes!

Tubes with fluid are typically about 75-80% fluid and the rest is air because you need an air cushion. So yes you can add air to fluid filled tires.

Paul

 

[Jim.ME]

Do your tubes have fluid in them? Do you know? If they have fluid and it is calcium based, the rims may be shot if they have been leaking long.

 

[Jf family]

Do your tubes have fluid in them? Do you know? If they have fluid and it is calcium based, the rims may be shot if they have been leaking long.

They have fluid in them. The leak is coming out around the valve stem. Rims are in good shape with little or no rust.

If they have fluid and are leaking slightly then yes, I would put new tubes in. That is a good plan. Now we understand the issue. New tubes!

Tubes with fluid are typically about 75-80% fluid and the rest is air because you need an air cushion. So yes you can add air to fluid filled tires.

Paul

Thanks will try putting some air in the current tubes and hopefully the valve stem will close. I am thinking I need to have
the valve stem at the top of the wheel when I add more air? Thanks again, this is just my utility tractor around the yard,
not on the road.

 

[Richard Nixon]

I agree with C. Amick completelty. A good chance they're seized to the rims and you'd tear up the bead getting them off. I'd just run them until they fail. May be several years. But above all, keep the sun off them whenever you can. New tires may not be as tough rubber, but they're made with a lot more UV inhibitors to account for the solar degradation being way (way, waaay) worse today than it was 60 years ago due to the thinner ozone. It's been discussed on here a few times that you can come across the occasions barn-find tractor with original rubber, but as soon as you start using or storing it with the rubber exposed to the sun it will fail rapidly. Old tires just can't handle today's UV.

To set the scientific record straight, the earth's ozone layer today is approximately the same thickness that it was 60 years ago in 1966.

 

[Rich'sToys]

I am thinking I need to have
the valve stem at the top of the wheel when I add more air?

That is correct. Have it at the top, otherwise the fluid will come out when you try and add air. That could also mess up the valve stem.

 

[Jf family]

That is correct. Have it at the top, otherwise the fluid will come out when you try and add air. That could also mess up the valve stem.

Thanks.

 

[Jim.ME]

They have fluid in them. The leak is coming out around the valve stem. Rims are in good shape with little or no rust.

Thanks will try putting some air in the current tubes and hopefully the valve stem will close. I am thinking I need to have
the valve stem at the top of the wheel when I add more air? Thanks again, this is just my utility tractor around the yard,
not on the road.

If the leak is coming out around the valve stem, be aware the rim damage may be inside where you cannot see it even if the outside looks good. The rims may break up just getting the tires off. Just saying what you may encounter so you are prepared. You may need to clean and repair the rims before remounting the tires with new tubes.

 

[old]

They have fluid in them. The leak is coming out around the valve stem. Rims are in good shape with little or no rust.

Thanks will try putting some air in the current tubes and hopefully the valve stem will close. I am thinking I need to have
the valve stem at the top of the wheel when I add more air? Thanks again, this is just my utility tractor around the yard,
not on the road.

Fluid in the tubes/tire changes thing and how to go about repairing them. First you need to know the fluid type since if it is CACL the rim will need work since the day they started to leak the rims started to rust and they can rust out in just a month or less

 

[showcrop]

Do not add air! Calcium Chloride needs air to rust your rims. After a few weeks the oxygen in the air is used up so the rusting stops unless you add some fresh air to feed the rust.

 

[Jf family]

Do not add air! Calcium Chloride needs air to rust your rims. After a few weeks the oxygen in the air is used up so the rusting stops unless you add some fresh air to feed the rust.

Thanks for the heads up on that. So my next question is what do I do when the tire gets low???

 

[a49deere]

Thanks for the heads up on that. So my next question is what do I do when the tire gets low???

If it's "getting low" You have a leak that needs attention, if filled with calcium, it needs to be addressed! You said they were filled and leaking around stem! You have a problem that needs to be delt with soon!!

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for the heads up on that. So my next question is what do I do when the tire gets low???

Unfortunately for you, you need to bite the bullet and get it fixed. The last few posts have given you the reasons why. The longer you postpone the more rim damage is happening especially if the fluid is calcium. You might be able to find a pair of used tires and rims in your area.

What is your "old Ford?

What is your general location? With that info someone might be able to point you to where you might find some.

 

[Jf family]

Unfortunately for you, you need to bite the bullet and get it fixed. The last few posts have given you the reasons why. The longer you postpone the more rim damage is happening especially if the fluid is calcium. You might be able to find a pair of used tires and rims in your area.

What is your "old Ford?

What is your general location? With that info someone might be able to point you to where you might find some.

Thank you. The Ford is a 1510, very nice condition 700 hours, three cylinder diesel with a loader. Rims are in good condition with
little rust on the rims, at least on the outside. Tires have good tread, just have cracks and they leak slowly.

 

[paul]

We are assuming it’s calcium chloride in the tires, a very good weight but it’s a salty corrosive thing when it leaks on the rims.

But it could be antifreeze or beet juice in the tires, either is often used as well.

Paul

 

[Ray,IN]

They have fluid in them. The leak is coming out around the valve stem. Rims are in good shape with little or no rust.

Thanks will try putting some air in the current tubes and hopefully the valve stem will close. I am thinking I need to have
the valve stem at the top of the wheel when I add more air? Thanks again, this is just my utility tractor around the yard,
not on the road.

Yes, add air with stem at 12:00 o'clock. First insure the valve stem id tight in the tube and core is tight in the stem, they can work loose. If you remove the valve stem or core, first support all the tractor weight on a jack, otherwise the weight will force liquid out of the tube. Calcium Chloride will feel like your fingers will not slide on each other,, and is clear.