Old tractor, new owner

[timjcatt]

Greetings, my first post! I was recently gifted a 1952 8N with a bush hog and what I believe is a Wagner 100 or 130 front loader as best as I can tell from pictures and manuals, no tags or markings on the loader that I can see. It hasn’t run in about 15 years and I’m going through postings and forums to try and do all I need to do to get it back up and working. A big thanks to all of those! It seems to me that as I’m trying to get this going it would make sense to disconnect the hydraulic pump of the loader from the front of the tractor just in case there is something going on with the pump that would drag down the tractor engine making it difficult to crank over. True? Do I just loosen the pump’s mounting bolts and slide away from the front of the tractor until the coupling disengages? Any other considerations for pre-work on the loader?
Thanks in advance.

 

[old]

Greetings, my first post! I was recently gifted a 1952 8N with a bush hog and what I believe is a Wagner 100 or 130 front loader as best as I can tell from pictures and manuals, no tags or markings on the loader that I can see. It hasn’t run in about 15 years and I’m going through postings and forums to try and do all I need to do to get it back up and working. A big thanks to all of those! It seems to me that as I’m trying to get this going it would make sense to disconnect the hydraulic pump of the loader from the front of the tractor just in case there is something going on with the pump that would drag down the tractor engine making it difficult to crank over. True? Do I just loosen the pump’s mounting bolts and slide away from the front of the tractor until the coupling disengages? Any other considerations for pre-work on the loader?
Thanks in advance.

If it sat that long the first thing I would do is fill the cylinders with ATF and let it sit a week. Pulling the hyd pump isn't needed unless it is locked up and about the only way it would be locked up is if there was no hyd oil in the tank so the pump would have sat dry

 

[timjcatt]

Thanks for the reply. I’ll be visiting it this weekend, it’s at my mother-in-law’s (the gifter) near Madison and I’m about 5.5 hours away. I’m planning on doing just that after I get the hood and gas tank off for better access. The fact that it’s been stored in a narrow barn stall and the loader are making it a little problematic to get at stuff, but better stored there than outside. Over all it looks pretty good. Engine oil full and relatively clean, transmission the same, radiator a little low and holding, fuel tank is empty but looks rust free inside (it was running when parked last), I’ve pulled the carb and just got the rebuild kit, next will be taking a look at the ignition system. It does have the 12V conversion. I know the PTO lever is locked up (not sure if it is in or out, does have an overdrive coupler) and it will need 3 new tires and a battery. Should be fun.

 

[Jim L WA]

timjcatt, welcome to the forum. Old gave you good advice to start with. My advice is don't overthink it. Get the carburetor back on after you put a kit in it, hook up your new battery and see if it turns over. If it doesn't then look for possible problems. If it turns over well, add gas to the tank and see if it will start. If it starts and runs, try to raise the loader and drive it out of the stall so you can work on it.
Keep us up to date.

 

[soaked]

Hi timjcatt, a 52 will have a timing window on carb side of the engine like this

See if the flywheel will turn with a light amount of prying with a screwdriver. If it turns, you have choices. A jack, or come-a-long can raise the bucket off the floor, ---tractor will move if in gear with the starter engaged.

Pto shaft on the mower could to be pulled off the tractor so blades dont turn, and mower jacked up if choosing to move out of the stall.

 

[timjcatt]

Thanks guys, getting it out of the barn would certainly open things up. I’ll let you know how it goes. I guess I wasn’t clear, the mower is not on the tractor so I don’t have to wrestle with that.

 

[timjcatt]

Well, didn’t get as far as I had hoped, not all my or the tractor’s fault. Had some issues with the carb kit, most notably I couldn’t get the old needle seat out, it looked like it had gone through a previous rebuild and someone had used some gasket sealer or similar on it, there was some hardened paste that had squeezed up around the threads. So I left the old seat in and cleaned it up as best I could. Also, the included throttle valve shaft was a bit too large in diameter and wouldn’t fit so I re-used the old one. Makes me wonder if I had the right kit, but more I wonder about the carb. The lower bowl section has a tag on it TSX241B (kit I ordered) but does not have “Marvel ~ Schebler” in the casting as I see in many of the photos of these carbs. Instead it has “Marvel Schebler“ in the upper casting on both sides of flange that bolts to the intake. Mean anything or am I just reading too much into this? A hybrid carb? I always question when someone else has worked on it and I don’t know what was done. I was also a bit miffed that although the kit came with a new choke plate shaft it dot come with a new seal for it (I got a “Complete“ kit). I damaged the old seal a bit pulling it out before I realized the kit didn’t have a new one, but it’s still useable.
I won’t get back down there for a few weeks, this one will take some time.

 

[soaked]

Your TSX 241B 3 52 carb looks original to me. The MS logo is missing from the bottom half of all of my 241 series carbs. (Got 4 or 5). TSX 33 does have the MS logo on it's bottom half.
Top two are old clones, and are missing the diagonal casting line. The tag on the bottom MS carb reads TSX 241B 7 52.

Havent bought complete kit, usually get gaskets, and other parts separately.