Oli filter rattles!

ziptab

New User
I have the oil filter base and canister off of my Super M-TA. I replaced the filter and noticed that the filter rattles around inside the canister like the filter is 1/2 inch too short....but it is the correct filter and the same length as the one removed. What is going on? Shouldn't tightening the canister bolt snug the filter down into the base?The manual doesn't show a spring or anything to push the filter into the base socket. I can't believe it just 'sits there'. Befuddled........./
 
That's common with some filters. With filter in lower hole measure up from lower installed gasket to top of filter. With mounting bolt full in canister measure from gasket surface to shoulder on bolt. Add clean flat washers to make up the space. Think I use 1/2 inch sae machine washers. Usually 2 to 4 washers.
 
Wow,that is odd that it is common.Seems the loose filter would be bypassed and maybe that is why my oil pan has A LOT of sludge in it.Who would even know this is happening if they didn't have the whole works removed and shook it? I have a Baldwin and a Fleetguard filter that have different lengths of the filter elements but the over all length is the same. Could I just put a compression spring on top the the filter to keep it pressed into it's lower socket?
 
If the filter seals on bolt shaft at the filter top a spring would work. Would need one to fit over the bolt shoulder and go to canister top. To short for a spring from shoulder to filter for a spring. Bolt shoulder probably sticks down a inch or so from canister top but lots of times leave 1/6 to 3/16 space between filter top and bolt shoulder. Don't know if the filters would bounce up enough to matter in use with the bypass filter setup. Lot of the filters are in like yours.
 
The filter does not seal around the thru bolt at the top....the bolt is a loose fit and the shoulder is a full 1/2" from touching the top of the filter. Per the owners manual,the canister is pressurized from the oil pump,oil goes through the outside of the filter to the inside and is metered back into the engine by the hole and passage in the canister bolt. Seems odd that the filter is not captured better. I put a 3/4" nut on top the filter and it stopped the filter from rattling around in the canister about 1 turn from being tight. I guess I'm happy now :-)
 
I'm wondering if you have the wrong filter, or bolt.

If I'm not mistaken the bolt only goes through the filter one way because the filter has two different sized holes in it, and the bolt is stepped. The step in the bolt pulls the filter into the base and holds it there solidly.
 
The filter is correct for the Super M-TA,not sure about the bolt or canister...anything could have happened in it's last 60 years as
far as something replaced........but can't imagine the bolt or canister ever needing to be replaced.....it's not much of a 'consumable'
part.
 
(quoted from post at 11:05:20 03/09/17) The filter is correct for the Super M-TA,not sure about the bolt or canister...anything could have happened in it's last 60 years as
far as something replaced........but can't imagine the bolt or canister ever needing to be replaced.....it's not much of a 'consumable'
part.

I had to replace the canister and the bolt on a Farmall H. Previous owner/owners had been tightening that bolt way too tight. Not only was the head of the bolt damaged, but the top of the canister was deformed. I couldn't make it stop leaking oil.
 
Saying a shoulder on bolt wasn't correct. Last one I changed was a diesel with a shoulder so I was thinking wrong. Two tabs instead of a shoulder. When using Wix or NAPA gold they fit bolt at top with felt or something. Tight enough to screw the bolt threads through but bolt threads can be pushed through the filter without screwing but may damage the felt. On the one in picture I used two washers to keep filter pressed in at bottom.
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