Oliver 1850 steering box problem

[Norwichjc]

Good morning. I have an oliver 1850 with marrow front end. The steering box located under the radiator jumps out of position, mangling hydraulic lines and disabling steering. The box is held in place by a 1 1/8 bolt that screws into steering shaft and a pin that slides into a hole. I assumed my problem was that 1 1/8 bolt came loose. I took steering box out, replaced all the o rings, and put back in tractor taking great care to make sure that bolt was tight as can be. Within seconds box jumped out of position again during test drive.

Took it apart again and noticed this time that the steering shaft itself moves up and down with undulations in terrain and lifts steering box out of position with it.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[rrlund]

There's a flat bar that's supposed to hold it in place. There's a tapered bolt at each end. One of them goes through a hole in the cylinder and the other in through a hole in the frame. If you're turning it with the cap off the top, yes, it'll move up and down. It rests partially on the cap as it sits on the gear, and partially is held up by that brace bar. Sounds like yours is missing the bar.

 

[Norwichjc]

The flat bar goes over the steering box to prevent it from lifting out of place?

 

[Norwichjc]

There was no brace bar in there when I took it out the first time. Another source told me it could be a bearing in the narrow front pedestal that's supposed to hold that shaft in place. Does that seem a possibility?

 

[rrlund]

No. It bolts to the frame and comes up under the steering cylinder to keep it from turning and bending the lines. It's a fairly thick bar and holds the cylinder up too. It'll never work without it.

 

[Norwichjc]

That bar with the hole at the end that a 1/2 inchish pin/peg, part of the steering box, is there. My problem is the whole steering boxassembly lifts out of that during ooeration

 

[rrlund]

It shouldn't if the nuts are on it. If the bolt is tight holding the gear on the shaft, the box can't lift off the gear. Are those tapered bolts tight in the bar?

 

[J. Schwiebert]

When you had the steering box off did you check to see if the nut holding the spindle tight in the casting was tight? Questions? My e-mail is open. J>

 

[Norwichjc]

There is definitely in the spindle

 

[Norwichjc]

There is definitely play in the spindle

 

[Norwichjc]

There is only 1 bolt on the bar and it is tight. Somehow the spindle itself, bolted inside the steering box, is moving up and down causing the steering box to raise high enough where the retaining pin on the box comes out of the hole on retaining bar. The bolt holding the box on the shaft is as tight as humanly possible

 

[rrlund]

Try this. If you don't get anything from it, I don't know anymore. If the tapered bolt is in each end of that bar and both ends are tight, I don't see how that cylinder can turn far enough to damage the lines. The ends on my 1550 aren't absolutely tight, despite my best efforts. It flexes a little, but certainly not enough to damage lines.

 

[Norwichjc]

Would it be OK to call me. I can text some pics. The steering box itself is only held in place by the 1 1/8 bolt that screws into the shaft. That metal bar retaining shaft is affixed to frame with 1 bolt. The other side is just a hole that a pin on the steering box slides into. Are you saying the steering box is supposed to be bolted to the metal bar?

 

[Norwichjc]

John eight60/ three34-898nine

 

[rrlund]

Yes, the tapered pin on the end of bar #96 goes up through the hole on the cylinder casting. The bar comes straight over toward the left side of the frame. Then tapered pin #92 goes down through the bar and the tapered hole in the frame. Both tapered pins have a nut on them. They're like a tie rod end as far as being tapered. If that bar isn't bolted down on both ends, when you turn the steering wheel, it's like letting go of the handles on one of those gas powered post hole augers. The shaft will stay in one place and the cylinder will try to go around.

 

[rrlund]

I don't have one of those text and get pictures phones. I went out with the camera and took a couple of pictures on one of mine and downloaded them in the computer. Posting them here is the best I can do. I hope these and the last diagram I posted helps, because I'm out of answers if they don't. That gear fits tight in the cylinder casting at the bottom, the cap holds it tight at the top and the gear and shaft are tapered so when you tighten that big bolt with an inch and an eighth wrench, that whole thing should be rigid as far as any movement except to rotate. That bar stops the rotation so the shaft turns instead of the cylinder turning.

 

[rrlund]

Take the cylinder back out, get the big nut off the top of the shaft that goes down in the pedestal. Unbolt the pedestal from the frame with the frame blocked up. Lay the pedestal down and pull the spindles and shaft out and check the bearings.

 

[Norwichjc]

Update: my problem is the bearings in the narrow front pedestal. There is quite a bit of play in the shaft. I have the pedestal off the tractor but having reat difficulty getting the 2 3/8 nut off the spindle. Anyone have any tricks? I've tried heat, solvents, etc. The metal of the nut isn't hardened so I'm worried about marring it

 

[rrlund]

I don't know. You might have to spend some money and make a long socket by cutting one in half and welding a piece of pipe in to it.

 

[Norwichjc]

Good evening. I'm in process of rebuilding the pedestal. You were kind enough previously to send a diagram with numbers for each part. Do you have the corresponding itemization describing each part?

 

[Norwichjc]

Good mornin. Do you have parts descriptions for the image you sent me?