Oliver 50 Baler chains

Hugh1950

Member
I am looking for help in finding new roller chains for an old Oliver 50 twine baler that I am trying to get working again.
The main problem is that it had been left out in the rain, and the roller chains are so rusty that they won't move. These are the agricultural extended pitch type. The primary chain off the gearbox appears to be 1 1/2 pitch, all the others are about 1 1/4 pitch according to my tape measure.
Luckily,the knotter had been covered, it appears to be in decent shape.
I unhooked the pitman from the crank so I could roll the flywheel back and forth by hand to move only the chain drives. I have been spraying the chains with penetrating oil for mare than a week, but can't get any of them to flex.
My local ag supply store carries some Japanese extended pitch chain, but there is no info on the boxes. I looked up the manufacturer's website, cut can't find anything matching either of these pitches. I did a wider search of other suppliers, but can't find any chains matching these pitches.
Anyone know where I should look next, or am I looking for the wrong pitches?
Thanks for any help!
 
Take a sample of each to any implement dealer. They will match the correct size.However,from what you describe is size #2040 or 2050.Take a side link to a wire wheel and scrub the rust from the side link. You will find the number stamped into the side link.Shoup Manufactureing,Surplus Center,and others sell roller chain by the 10 ft roll. Once you determine the correct size,a simple matter to order.
 
Size is a number like 2040, find the coupler link and take chains off soak in pail with ATF etc. Or take link with you to match up at ag store.
 
Ilike to use a mix of 50/50 diesel fuel and used motor oil.Fill a 5 gal bucket to an appropriate level and drop the chain in. Let it soak for a week(or longer). If it still refuses to move. Buy new chains.
 
Agricultural chain is measured from center of pin to center of pin in 1/8 increments. Hence #40 chain is1/2.
#50 chain is 5/8. #60 chain is 3/4,and so on.Add a '20' and you get extended link.2050 is 2x5/8,or 1 1/14. you get the picture.Most common farm roller chains are # 40;50;60.....2040;2050;2060...There is standard duty and heavy duty. The same sprockets will accept either,but the chains themselves will not mix.You can use ;20' series chain on standard sprockets,but you can only use extended link on sprockets designed for double pitch.Double pitch are mostly used for slower speed applications. Then you get into the 'flat' steel detachable. Those are a whole different set of number.
 
Ya.I am familiar with that. Ruining the needles or damaging the knotter would be a lot more work and expense. I grew up with a McCormick 50 T, the one with the little hand-crank Cub engine over the bale chamber. Sure wish I had another! That little engine would rally purr, and you could slow your tractor ground speed when the windrow was heavy,and speed up when it was light.
I check with the local Amish equipment dealers once in a while to see if they have any engine balers.
Saw one for sale or eBay in upstate NY years ago, the guy had restored it with a new coat of paint, and wanted a small fortune for it,not to mention the hauling expense.
It would miss a tie once in a while,but the only other problem we ever had was that it was really hard to restart the engine when you came back out after lunch. Cold starts were no problem. Sort of like the old Fordson tractors, it was best just to keep it running through lunchtime.
If I can't get the Oliver going soon, I can try the AC Roto-baler, but then would have to fire up the old WD for the live PTO.
 
Thanks for the explanation, makes sense now!
I couldn't remember where I left my old copy of Machinery's Handbook,that info might be in there. (I went to a small local school called Purdue U, spent 41 years as a mechanical engineer.)
Our local Stock and Field store just re-opened under new ownership. They have the a few boxes of the 2050 I need,plus links, but not the 2060. Likewise at Tractor Supply this morning, Rural King doesn't show any extended pitch on their website, either.
I actually have much more hands on experience with the old detachable chain, mostly courtesy of dad's old Minneapolis-Moline 2 row cornpicker,1947 JD grain drill, etc.
I'll look around the internet a bit more to find some 2060.
 
We had a 50 T , was so heavy it bent the drawbar on the Farmall C .
That Baler stayed out in the snow , but come time to use it ,put gas in it, string twine and grease it .and go bale till dark .it was robust ,glad you mentioned it.
I soak roller chain in diesel fuel or kerosene, for a while ,loosen right up .
 
BUY NEW CHAIN for the chain that drives the tie mech. As I found out to my dismay, Chains stretch over time, and eventually break. You dont want that happening while your baling. I imagine Needles for an Oliver baler are as hard to find as needles for a Case baler
 
(quoted from post at 17:28:53 05/29/21) Thanks for the explanation, makes sense now!
I couldn't remember where I left my old copy of Machinery's Handbook,that info might be in there. (I went to a small local school called Purdue U, spent 41 years as a mechanical engineer.)
Our local Stock and Field store just re-opened under new ownership. They have the a few boxes of the 2050 I need,plus links, but not the 2060. Likewise at Tractor Supply this morning, Rural King doesn't show any extended pitch on their website, either.
I actually have much more hands on experience with the old detachable chain, mostly courtesy of dad's old Minneapolis-Moline 2 row cornpicker,1947 JD grain drill, etc.
I'll look around the internet a bit more to find some 2060.


I think the website I've used in the past is rollerchain4less.com.

You can find any type of chain you need that's better quality than tsc has and it's more affordable, even with shipping.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
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