Yeah, I have 1949 Oliver 70 that motor won't turn over and I tried removing spark plugs and starter to see if I can turn flywheel with screw driver or lug tire bar with no results. So now it's either pull water pump cover to inspect timimig chain or drop oil pan to inspect bearings and shaft. Or remove gas tank and inspect clutch. Which should I do next. Please advise.. thanks ps I lifted rear tires and they turn when in neutral. Yeah, thanks

Bob thanks for asking me that. And yes after removing Spark plugs.. I soked cylinders with deisel, with White Vinegar, with Miracle Mistery oil (very expernsive stuff) and made sure each time that they soaked for 3-4 days before I tried to turn the flywheel.. and no results. And I had to lift both back tires on blocks because it was sitting on a hill and the liquid I would pour into cylinders would all collect on the low end and I wanted an even soaking.. so yeah I tried just about everything.. the only thing i have not tried is to pour hot water into radiator hoping to expand the water jacket of engine block enough so as to free up the pistions at the same time melting the carmelized reidue around the rings... but it would need to be done when is it freezing cold out here .. and right now it is 105 degrees F... So.. Yeah that might be something I would try later on in the cold months ahead..

You know.. I've had about 1 pound of sugar dumped into gas tank ( my kid nephews did it while I was sleeping ) And when I was out discing the next day, motor started running with funny. So I stopped and saw that the gas filter was not the right color, So i drained gas and tried to vacumn the inside of the tank until the vacumn cleaner caught on fire and started burning.... so i threw vacumn cleaner off tractor and the next day ... vacumn bag was full of ants.. so yeah.... it had to be sugar. So I kinda wish I could lock this tractor up into a garage, but have not had the funds to convert my storage into a garage yet..

Oh and in answer to your question.. the tractor has been sitting about 2 years. And you know.. this tractor has a mechanical lever that you pull to let the culuvator implements down in the rows to culuvate.. and I wonder if that may be stuck? I also has 2 PTO's .. One out of the side of motor/tranny and one under the seat.. the transmission has 2 Neutral s one for high gears and one neutral for granny gears so there are like 7 gears on this thing. it's got military gears... so I'll be gone and those military gears will still be working...
 
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If the tires are aired up, put the shifter in high gear and rock the tractor by pushing on a rear tire. Watch to see if the fan moves when you do that. If the tires aren't aired up, jack up ONE rear tire, shift into high and rock the tire that is off the ground and watch for the fan to move. If the fan isn't moving, the engine is probably stuck from rust.
 
pull water pump cover to inspect timimig chain
HELLO lakejunk.., welcome to YT! Sorry but it appears you’re new to tractors and maybe even engine/tractor mechanics. The camshaft in most all tractors is driven by a set of gears on most tractors not much to mess up in that respect. However, if there was an opening for mice to get in they can build a nest in there and turn everything into a rusty blob, so there is that. Clutches for the most part have no real bearing on whether an engine will turn or not. The throw-out bearing is the only stationary part that interacts with the rotating parts and usually it is backed away from the clutch fingers, so no real way for it to interfere with rotation. Did any of the spark plugs show rust on them?(show us a picture of them) If so that is probably a huge clue that points to the most common problems with stuck engines which Bob pointed out, the rings and pistons are likely stuck rusted tight in the cylinders.
 
No timing chain to look at it is a gear train. Below is a link to the online parts book (if it works AGCO stuff doesn't always link right for me.). Cylinders (including pistons and rings) are the most likely problem area. Valves maybe rusted and stuck as well if it was getting water in it.

I suggest you get the service manual for your tractor before tearing into things.

Oliver 70 parts book
 
What's been said is helpful, but an Oliver 70 isn't worth much and with a stuck engine, you're going to be burning money if you continue- I mean, unless it has only been stuck for a short period and will easily break free with the mildest persuasion, and the rest of the tractor is very decent.
 
Yeah, I have 1949 Oliver 70 that motor won't turn over and I tried removing spark plugs and starter to see if I can turn flywheel with screw driver or lug tire bar with no results. So now it's either pull water pump cover to inspect timimig chain or drop oil pan to inspect bearings and shaft. Or remove gas tank and inspect clutch. Which should I do next. Please advise.. thanks ps I lifted rear tires and they turn when in neutral.
Tell us the history of it. If it has sat a long time with out being started it could be as simple as sticking ring to the cylinder walls and an ATF treatment is likely to fix the problem and save you a lot of works and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 
maybe remove spark plugs and use a bore scope to observe condition of the liners. Also check clutch area ( if possible ) for a nest. Friendly little eyes might be watching you !
 
Does this Oliver 70 have any sentimental value to you? If it DOES, proceed with caution and see if you can get it broke loose. If it has no value to you, go ahead and also proceed with trying to get it broke loose, but I would advise you not sink any money into it. It can be a money pit. You can easily sink $3K into the Continental 202 engine and be very lucky to have somebody give you $1K for a freshly overhauled Oliver 70. Don't ask me how I know. If you want a running Oliver 70, go buy a running Oliver 70. JMO. :cool:
 
Yeah, I have 1949 Oliver 70 that motor won't turn over and I tried removing spark plugs and starter to see if I can turn flywheel with screw driver or lug tire bar with no results. So now it's either pull water pump cover to inspect timimig chain or drop oil pan to inspect bearings and shaft. Or remove gas tank and inspect clutch. Which should I do next. Please advise.. thanks ps I lifted rear tires and they turn when in neutral. Yeah, thanks

Bob thanks for asking me that. And yes after removing Spark plugs.. I soked cylinders with deisel, with White Vinegar, with Miracle Mistery oil (very expernsive stuff) and made sure each time that they soaked for 3-4 days before I tried to turn the flywheel.. and no results. And I had to lift both back tires on blocks because it was sitting on a hill and the liquid I would pour into cylinders would all collect on the low end and I wanted an even soaking.. so yeah I tried just about everything.. the only thing i have not tried is to pour hot water into radiator hoping to expand the water jacket of engine block enough so as to free up the pistions at the same time melting the carmelized reidue around the rings... but it would need to be done when is it freezing cold out here .. and right now it is 105 degrees F... So.. Yeah that might be something I would try later on in the cold months ahead..

You know.. I've had about 1 pound of sugar dumped into gas tank ( my kid nephews did it while I was sleeping ) And when I was out discing the next day, motor started running with funny. So I stopped and saw that the gas filter was not the right color, So i drained gas and tried to vacumn the inside of the tank until the vacumn cleaner caught on fire and started burning.... so i threw vacumn cleaner off tractor and the next day ... vacumn bag was full of ants.. so yeah.... it had to be sugar. So I kinda wish I could lock this tractor up into a garage, but have not had the funds to convert my storage into a garage yet..

Oh and in answer to your question.. the tractor has been sitting about 2 years. And you know.. this tractor has a mechanical lever that you pull to let the culuvator implements down in the rows to culuvate.. and I wonder if that may be stuck? I also has 2 PTO's .. One out of the side of motor/tranny and one under the seat.. the transmission has 2 Neutral s one for high gears and one neutral for granny gears so there are like 7 gears on this thing. it's got military gears... so I'll be gone and those military gears will still be working...
I also has 2 PTO's .. One out of the side of motor/tranny and one under the seat..
- The side PTO is for a flat belt pulley, like was used to power threshing machines and feed grinders.

the transmission has 2 Neutral s one for high gears and one neutral for granny gears so there are like 7 gears on this thing. it's got military gears... so I'll be gone and those military gears will still be working...
- The transmission pattern is a double H. One H is the low range side, probably with 1st, 2nd, 5th and R1 gears. The other H is the high range side with 3rd, 4th, 6th and R2. Six speeds forward and two reverse speeds.

If the tractor is a row crop with the oddball 40 inch rim diameter size rear tires those can be really hard to find locally. MillerTire.com in Ohio does carry 9.5-40 tires in bias ply and radials. Also check the cost of engine parts before making a commitment, parts for that continental engine can be hard to find and expensive.

As was already mentioned, for some reason Oliver 70 tractors just never had any value in the collector tractor market. You can buy almost any running or fully restored or Oliver 70 tractor for around $1,000, far less than it cost to restore and often more than the cost to just to repair one.
 
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