oliver coupler chain

andydap

Member
hi, got the answer to my shaky oliver 1650 diesel here on this forum. going to install the right engine mount bolts in the right places, but there was a suggestion to only use oem coupler chain. where do you get one?
 
Lots of guys say to run the chains dry. When I bought my first 1850 back in 73 from an Oliver dealer he told me to keep the chain sprayed with WD40 and they will be quieter and last longer. I use chain lube now and keep them lubed.
 
Did Oliver actually build it or was it sourced from a place like Browning or Rexnord?

If so, there are all sorts of power transmission equipment outlets from which a quality replacement can be secured.

You don't state specifically, but all 3 components should be changed, and not just the chain itself.

When you get your " original " part, it would be interesting to see the name on it.
 
Lots of guys say to run the chains dry. When I bought my first 1850 back in 73 from an Oliver dealer he told me to keep the chain sprayed with WD40 and they will be quieter and last longer. I use chain lube now and keep them lubed.

I'm one of those guys- and I base my opinion on not my personal expereince, but the experiences of a 40+ year Oliver/White heavy mechanic (and his colleagues) who saw more problems with lubed chains than dry. They would prematurely wear due to the dust/dirt buildup on whatever chain lube the owners would use.
 
When I worked part time at an Oliver dealer the factory rep. told us that in a perfect world [ no dust or dirt] you would oil the chain, but in the real world run them dry so they don't pick up so much dirt and abrasive contaminate so the Co. said not to ever oil them
 
you get that from the dealer as thats where i bought mine for the 1755. but, long as its a diamond name chain thats the best chain out there or used to be. if it says china on the chain its no use installing it. it will be loose in no time. and its just a double roller chain so if a person has a chunk of left over chain just cut it to length and use a new connector. chains are sold in bulk like 10 ft chunks in some places, and hard to find a place to sell just what u need. plus the long cotter in instead of 2 cotter pins is what is recommended. they are not fun to get that connector hooked up. your not going to be able to remove them sprockets anyhow with it together. the proper way to oil them chains is to throw them in gear oil and soak them. just spraying wd40 or something on them does nothing. u need the lube inside of the rollers. i oil all my chains no matter what they are on , from combine to anything with a chain. they even run quieter. i also spray them with chain lube. to me running a dry chain is foolish. tell me how the dirt gets inside the rollers on a spinning chain. lay the old chain on the floor beside the new chain and pull it apart and push it together and you will see the amount of wear. you might get 1/2 inch of stretch in it while the new one will have no stretch.
 
you get that from the dealer as thats where i bought mine for the 1755. but, long as its a diamond name chain thats the best chain out there or used to be. if it says china on the chain its no use installing it. it will be loose in no time. and its just a double roller chain so if a person has a chunk of left over chain just cut it to length and use a new connector. chains are sold in bulk like 10 ft chunks in some places, and hard to find a place to sell just what u need. plus the long cotter in instead of 2 cotter pins is what is recommended. they are not fun to get that connector hooked up. your not going to be able to remove them sprockets anyhow with it together. the proper way to oil them chains is to throw them in gear oil and soak them. just spraying wd40 or something on them does nothing. u need the lube inside of the rollers. i oil all my chains no matter what they are on , from combine to anything with a chain. they even run quieter. i also spray them with chain lube. to me running a dry chain is foolish. tell me how the dirt gets inside the rollers on a spinning chain. lay the old chain on the floor beside the new chain and pull it apart and push it together and you will see the amount of wear. you might get 1/2 inch of stretch in it while the new one will have no stretch.
It's not a common double roller. There aren't any plates in the middle, just long pins and two rollers.
 
It's not a common double roller. There aren't any plates in the middle, just long pins and two rollers.
Yes you’re correct , was just thinking could get around buying the unit specific chain. They got a person. Lol
 
As rrlund says it is not a standard chain with plates in the middle. BUT you can use a standard double roller chain with plates in the middle. I have a Tsubaki Lambda series standard double roller chain on my 1655. However I believe the OEM chain would allow for more misalignment so you have to check your alignment is good and shim accordingly( which you should do anyway) The other thing I found that the standard connecting link was too long and had to grind a tad off the cottered end to clear. Had to fiddle a bit to get the loose center plates in place when connecting chain, but other than that it has been working fine for I think 3 maybe 4 years now.
 
Had one come off when I was cutting hay at the nieghbours and of course it took out the speedo cable when it flew off. Found it only had individual cotter pins in the connecting pins. The original chains have seperate pins in the connecting link so you need to be sure to use a single cotter pin to keep pin from rotating and wearing thru the cotter pin.
 
I'd find the extended rear coupler/sprocket from Maibach as well and replace it while you're in there. Everything you need to know:

 
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I never had one actually come off. I've had a few start to shred. The one on the 1550 lost some rollers and the tractor shook so bad that it loosened the radiator cap. I don't remember if it was the 1600 or 1850, some links flung out and a kinked a steel line.
 
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