Oliver OC 46

First let me say hi to the group from PA. Second let me say my disclaimer, i am not a mechanic, i have very little mechanic knowledge. Ive acquired an oliver oc46 3 G. I wanted to join this group for the information available, and have used it in the past as well without. Ive been slowly bringing the crawler back to life. Just wondering if someone can give me a date range on the serial number.
3TG-244
It is the 4 cylinder which is making me think 57.
 

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Ill share some photos of progress. The first issue was the sprocket was rubbing the pinion gear cover plate, and tore it up pretty badly. It resulted in stripped bolts on the cover plate and pinion cover plate. The welds on the back side of the final drive around the track frame shaft broke from the factory, which resulted in it floating. I had to have it rewelded. As you can see it also stripped the treads on the final drive where the plate bolts onto the casing. I helicoiled them.
 

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I also replaced bearings that were wore out, and the pinion gear since it had some semi broken teeth. See attached manual schematic for anyone for future use.
 

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After i ordered parts from Zimmermann's out of Ephrata, I got it all together and I learned a valuable lesson. Dry fit everything first. I was coming up short and the sprocket was rubbing on the plates again. I had to tear everything apart and buy another gasket. Lesson learned. I needed to space the sprocket out. For some reason I wasn't getting the clearance. My hunch was wearing on the housing and bull gear? Anyway I talked with Landis and others to come up with a solution. I purchased washers to sandwich between housing, inner bearing and on the track frame shaft. Voila Amazon delivered.
 

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After I figured out the correct amount of shims, and dry fitting it was time to put it back together for real. Also included on this one is a pic of the cracked pinion gear.
 

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After I got the finals back together. I had to finish up the rollers. That was a job. Every one of them was hard to get off. Sledge hammer, bottle jack, and chains. A porta power would have been helpful. When I first started replacing the very first one I noticed something bad. It had regular grease in the roller shaft. She shafts were severely worn on front and back which has been common from others. So once I saw that black grease I knew it had to be done. Only oil or john deere cornhead grease is allowed. Otherwise it just gums up with dirt and doesnt lubricate the bushings correctly. All roller assemblies have to be removed.
 
Unfortunately, I dont have photos of the roller assembly and tearing them apart, but after doing 4 times, I got better. Here is a schematic from the manual. The shafts were severely worn on front and back. Complete rebuilds minus the roller were needed. The centers only required disassembly, grease removal, and reassemble. The bushings were even still good.
 

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Next issue was a simple oil change. That turned into a major issue. Previous owner attempted to square off the pipe drain plug with what looked like an angle grinder. Im guessing from years of changes it became rounded. Needless to say every attempt cause the cast plug to crumble. Eventually I used a harbor freight extractor set to take the plug out. The plug had mostly a hollow core?! So as I drilled, I reached the core. I had to keep going up in extractor sizes until I finally got to a point to where it gripped the side walls of the plug. This was touch and go, because the oild pan isn't the most stout thing. I was worried about bending or twisting it. Eventually I had to get my big breaker bar and it finally turned. I was very cautious though, because the plug was extremely tight, and I was scared of it twisting the oil pan. Eventually when it turned, I heard a hallelujah and sunlight shown from the sky.
 

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Next issue that happened. Starter switch needed replaced, and then later starter wouldnt start. I took the starter out, quick arched it on the battery with jumpers, nothing. I turned it slightly and did it again and it spun. I took starter to a guy locally to clean and rebuild if needed. He got it back to me and has been working great.
 

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I was able to finally get the track put together on the left side, greased everything with appropriate grease, put the correct oil in the final drive, and drive it up and down the alley beside my house. It was a quick little win, and I still have to tear down the right side and redo it. I also have replaced the alternator (one wire 12v), and have to test the wire back, and amperage gauge. I think it is not charging / going through amp gauage and may need a new gauge.
 
Very neat, and mostly like mine. Mine has the flat pads, low-wide grossers. Still gets good traction. Heavy- SAE 140 gear oil- best in final drives. Track pins and bushings OK?. Sprocket teeth in first photo look a bit sharp- lots of wear if slack or worn track rides up. keep hyd oil clean and dry and brake bands adjusted fairly tight and enjoy. If sat outside, also check that no water in trans.
 
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