One wire alternator....

BigDawg

Member
I wasn't aware that the 1wire alternator could be wired with 3 wires until I read a post from Soundguy.

Other than the revving issue, are there other benefits? I think I want to wire mine with the 3 wires as long as the tractor is apart and easily accessible.

Can I just use the standard wiring diagram for 12 volt - 3 wire.

(On a different note, i found a pinhole in my gas tank. I now must take it off and line the tank or something. It's always something.)

Thanks,

BigDawg
Wisconsin
 
-many- 1 wire setups can benefit and run as 3 wire. some, it makes no difference. all depends on the reg module.

#2 jumped to charge stud, #1 thru a 194 lamp tot he coil side of the key switch.. or if you want to get fancy, thru a diode.

use a 1a/50piv minimum diode.. though 3a/200piv is better. diode has a stripe on one end.. that strip goes TOWARD alternator.

you can use both.. a lamp inline with the diode.. this gives you an idiot lamp that some people like.. and still is auto magic. key on=lamp on, started, rpm over 400, lamp out= charging.. ie.. classic idiot lamp.

radio shack part numbers.. 276-1661 276-1141 both work.. or if buying from a parts house.. ask for a 1N5408 which is a very beefy diode.

where's the pinhole?

redneck repair method is a small wood or sheetmetal screw and a nitrile oring.. sand area arond hole till shiney..screw into the hole thru the oring.. that seals it.. if you want to get fancy, shoot the area with some carb cleaner and wipe with a clean rag to remove fuel and oil residue. next goop some jbweld or epoxy paste / stick over the screw head... waterweld (jb) sticks as well as the liquid are both gas resistant once cured. stick will work better if the hole is on a side or bottom. there are also generic 'fuel tank' repair sticks that are just a similar stick to waterweld.. some even are good for emergency repairs and will stick to gas or oil wet metal.

ps.. the screw / oring trick works great on rock chipped oil pans on things like cars going down gravel roads.. :) BTDT


ont he other hand.. many rust pinholes are from water.. and you know if there is one rusted thru.. there are 5 more about to.

so.. you can then reline the tank at your leisure if needed.

again.. this is the redneck or emergency cheap repair method.. screw thru oring. not elegant.. but gets you off the side of the road.. and if the area is accessable.. it's quick and fast.

soundguy
 
Doggie.........the 1-wire alternator works on a different internal voltage regulator than the 3-wire does. Howsomevers, summtimes yer lucky and the internal guttz will still work as a 3-wire. I don't pretend to know which part is needed, as I am NOT an alternator repair shop person. Me? I'd taker into an autoparts store and ask fer "free" checkout and WATCH how they hooker-up. Even ask questions, eh?

The 1-wire alternator conversion depends upon internal residual magnetizm and a special amplifier to "excite" the alternator. The 1-wire needs enuff rpms to excite the magnetic amplifier. On automobiles where you need to gun the motor to gitt the vehicle moving, ittz NOTTA problem. ...but... with low rpm tractors, you need that 1800rpms (gunnin' the engine) to start the excitation. Once excited, guess what? itt'll charge at idle just like the 3-wire. Which gittz excitation from the ignition ON switch (battery) and thru the "idiot" lite. (just like God and General Motors Delco intended) ........Dell, a 12V advocate for the right reasons; who knows 8-ways to convert to 12V and they all work the first time.
 
I guess I've been lucky but I've installed at least a dozen 1 wire alternators on Ns and have never had a problem with it starting to charge at idle......the next one I put on probably won't work...
 
Amen Tommy, I put on over 20-1 wire alts, no issues or worries at idle...Knock Knock. I also have a special 3 wire to 1 wire adapter, for those pesky 3 wire alternators..
 
(quoted from post at 16:49:50 07/19/11) I guess I've been lucky but I've installed at least a dozen 1 wire alternators on Ns and have never had a problem with it starting to charge at idle......the next one I put on probably won't work...
es, everyone on these forums parrot the same line about "have to rev the engine to charge", but as with most things in life all one wire alternators are not created equal & there are those that do not need to be run at a high speed to begin charging. If buying one wire regulators, I think they can be identifies, but when buying the one wire alternators (reg installed) a person may not be able to determine one from another in the store.??
 
lotsa variables. some reg modules turn on at lower rpm than others. pulley size makes a difference too. the smaller the pulley, the more rpm the alt will see.

soundguy
 
I think you get what you pay for. A cheap one wire might need 8-900 rpm to excite, a more expensive one will start at 400rpm. Dont ask me how you tell what you are getting before you try it!
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:22 07/19/11) Doggie.........the 1-wire alternator works on a different internal voltage regulator than the 3-wire does. Howsomevers, summtimes yer lucky and the internal guttz will still work as a 3-wire. I don't pretend to know which part is needed, as I am NOT an alternator repair shop person. Me? I'd taker into an autoparts store and ask fer "free" checkout and WATCH how they hooker-up. Even ask questions, eh?

The 1-wire alternator conversion depends upon internal residual magnetizm and a special amplifier to "excite" the alternator. The 1-wire needs enuff rpms to excite the magnetic amplifier. On automobiles where you need to gun the motor to gitt the vehicle moving, ittz NOTTA problem. ...but... with low rpm tractors, you need that 1800rpms (gunnin' the engine) to start the excitation. Once excited, guess what? itt'll charge at idle just like the 3-wire. Which gittz excitation from the ignition ON switch (battery) and thru the "idiot" lite. (just like God and General Motors Delco intended) ........Dell, a 12V advocate for the right reasons; who knows 8-ways to convert to 12V and they all work the first time.

SoundGuy - Thanks once again. You're the man. Don't know where you find the time to do what you do and answer all these questions as well.

Regards,

BigDawg
Wisconsin
 
Good tank repair. I had a '38 Pontiac that developed a pinhole leak - repair; sheet metal screw, a piece of leather and some 'Sealall'. When I sold the thing the bottom of the tank looked like it had been hit with a scattergun full of screws !
 
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