OT - a question for the carb gurus

[HFJ]

i've got a TSX-464 that i want to rebuild. is anyone here familiar with this one? i'd could use some guidance.

 

[R Geiger]

They rebuild just like all the rest. this might help.

http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=TSX-464%20(226258)

 

[HFJ]

in particular, i see our hosts offer 3 kits. i'd like to get the kit here, but i have no idea which of the 3 i would want.

 

[R Geiger]

I usually base that on what the carb looks like. If pretty rough I would use the Carburetor Kit, Comprehensive. It cost more but you get a lot more. If tractor is running and you just want to open it up for cleaning the basic one would work. They are fun to work on!

 

[Royse]

Most of the time I buy the "complete" kit because it comes
with the shaft(s) that are often worn, new jets, springs, etc.

The "comprehensive" kit also contains all of that, plus a lot
more parts that you may, or may not need, like the butterflies.
But it also comes with new screws, new drain plug AND a
petcock if you prefer to use that in place of the drain plug,
new brass keepers for the seals, etc. For ~$14 more.

This is my experience with the Ford kits at least, and the AC
kits look to be the same deal based on the pictures.

 

[HFJ]

thanks, guys. i'm planning to tear it apart tomorrow, and hoping my path will be apparent at that point

 

[HFJ]

it was too filthy to tear down (DUH, shoulda realized that to begin with) so i sent it off with a friend to soak in kerosene and then boil it. water and dishwashing detergent to boil it?

i do know now that the throttle shaft has a slight amount of play perpendicular to the shaft itself - i can wiggle it up and down/left and right slightly. the shaft itself will also slide in and out, i'm guessing maybe a sixteenth of an inch, maybe 2 mm. are these indications that i need a new shaft and bushing, or is that amount of play normal?

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 10:57:13 04/24/19)
it was too filthy to tear down (DUH, shoulda realized that to begin with) so i sent it off with a friend to soak in kerosene and then boil it. water and dishwashing detergent to boil it?

i do know now that the throttle shaft has a slight amount of play perpendicular to the shaft itself - i can wiggle it up and down/left and right slightly. the shaft itself will also slide in and out, i'm guessing maybe a sixteenth of an inch, maybe 2 mm. are these indications that i need a new shaft and bushing, or is that amount of play normal?

I would replace the shaft and bushing, If I rebuild one I always replace the shaft/bushing. That way I know I am good for along time.

 

[deanostoybox]

"it was too filthy to tear down (DUH, shoulda realized that to begin with) so i sent it off with a friend to soak in kerosene and then boil it. water and dishwashing detergent to boil it?"

It is the sodium carbonate that does the work. Cascade is 30-35% sodium carbonate according to the MSDS. I do not know anything about any other brands. Washing soda is pure sodium carbonate. Probably some impurities but that is the only ingredient. Sodium carbonate [u:654c4848f0]slightly[/u:654c4848f0] attacks iron and aluminum. It will remove any rust or oxide. It does not attack brass.

A vigorous roaring boil is what you want. The bubbles and turbulence are responsible for the scrubbing action. Top up frequently so as not to loose temperature.

Disassemble the carb as far as possible before boiling. If the jets are stubborn is not necessary to remove them as they will be easier to remove after boiling.

Only the throttle body and fuel bowl need to be boiled. The other parts will be replaced or can be cleaned with spray can carb cleaner.

Once parts come out of the boiling water rinse thoroughly with clear water and blow dry with compressed air. It would probably be a good idea to spray the cleaned and rinsed parts down with WD-40 inside and out to prevent rust from forming due to exposure to air. I treat the cast iron parts with phosphoric acid (after removing the jets and skipping the WD-40) which turns the cast iron a nice black color. This treatment will make it much more resistant to rust.

<span style=color:red;>THIS IS IMPORTANT!</span> That the parts are rinsed thoroughly, dried, and protected from oxygen, as they have been attacked by a (mild) caustic and are extremely clean.

 

[Royse]

The shaft comes in the kit if you buy the complete kit.
Originally, there was no bushing, just the housing, seal and brass retainer.
If you need a bushing, it is a drill the casting, press the bushing in,
then hone to fit the shaft deal. I also cut them down with an end
mill so I can use the original style seal. Many, many of these old
carbs just have the bushings honed to size and then use no seal or
and external seal sandwiched between the throttle rod and bushing.