OT-Building 3-pt implements

[JDrew]

I am cannibalizing some larger implements to use with my 2N including a spring harrow and drag but also want to build a bedder. Does anyone have dimensions for the hitch triangle? Also, am I okay with 2x2x1/4 angle for my hitch frame or do I need more beef?

thx,

J-

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:41:19 02/13/09) I am cannibalizing some larger implements to use with my 2N including a spring harrow and drag but also want to build a bedder. Does anyone have dimensions for the hitch triangle? Also, am I okay with 2x2x1/4 angle for my hitch frame or do I need more beef?

thx,

J-

 

[Davy Fireball]

i made a A FRAME out of square 2x2 -1/4 inch thick for a back blade and i broke it. remember gussets are GOOD (more beef)

 

[Dell (WA)]

Jdrew........interestingly enuff, on the left sidebar, under Research & Info, is a entry called "3-Point Specs". Wonder what that could possibly mean???

For the research challenged, the 11-hole drawbar is 26" between 7/8" pins. You can buy pins at yer local tractor parts store. Isn't that amazing? And the top-link is usually 26" vertically from the horizontal drawbar and uses a 3/4" pin. These are the specs for ALL Category-I 3-point hitchs. .......Dell, the researcher

 

[Dell (WA)]

Oooops!!! make that 18" vertical from the horizontal 3-point bar. NOT 26".......Dell, needs more cauphy

 

[PhilipIN]

J-, Send a private e-mail and I can send you some drawings with dimensions of implements I have made. Philip.

 

[JDrew]

What's REALLY interesting is that I did a SEARCH for 3-point specs just like it's spelled on the sidebar and nothing came up... Can't imagine why I didn't think to look to the left. Must need some specs myself. thx, Dell!

 

[Mr. Bob]

I've made 3 different 3pt. hitch implements. I used 26" wide and 20" from cehter of cross bar to center of top link hole on tractor. I made all 3 over 25 years ago and they have worked just fine.
Mr. Bob

 

[Paul in MN]

Make the frame of beefier stock. If you use angle, then 2.5 x 2.5 x 5/16" minimum. If it is a heavy pull or lift item then 3/8" min thickness on the angle. Even some of the factory made stuff with higher tensile steel is bent up. Often the bending damage comes from the implement being down (engaging the ground) and the operator turns a corner...puts tremendous side forces on the hitch. Use gussets at the corners and some diagonal bracing that might be included in your design.

Building lightweight stuff works for bicycles and mopeds, but not tractors.

Paul in MN

 

[JDrew]

Thanks, Paul. That's EXACTLY the info I was looking for. I don't have the voltage to weld that thick, but I can bring it over to a pal's place.

J-