OT - Heat Pump Recommendations

Bill VA

Well-known Member
Thinking about having a heat pump installed. Presently our old house is somewhat cooled with a couple window units and if we turn it on,
which is rarely, electric baseboard heat. 99 percent of our home heating is via wood heat.

We probably would need a 3 ton unit.

Question is - what is the best bang for a heat pump these days?

We would continue with the wood heat, but probably back off of it 24/7.

Thanks!
Bill
 
We have had good luck and service, with the Carrier units. Always been able to get 15 to 18 years of service out of all of them so far.
 
Bill,I put in a new 3.5 ton Trane with aux heat, heat pump last fall and it really helped the electric bill.Had a old 3 ton Lenix central air and electric heat unit.The Trane is more even heat and a/c and uses way less electricity.
 
I put one of these in our house in Indiana in 2006. Our electric bill dropped by 1/3 and we were cooler in summer, warmer in winter. Cost a little more than some other brands but was worth every penny. Owned house six years after installing it gave zero trouble.
 

The heat pump users paid the price last winter... I had baseboard heat it was not that bad till kids came along and I had to heat the whole house... I added a LP heater just for back up but it was so cheap to operate I never ran the electric heat again... I am not saying I keep it warm but you could get out of bed and stand in front of the LP heater and get warmed up enough to dash to the bedroom and get dressed...

Move forward 30 years when I remodel that house I did not know if I was going to sell it are rent it... It would be a hard sell with out central heat and air. If I rented it the renter could pay the electric bill it was not my problem. I went with a heat pump central air deal but kept the LP heater.

My daughter had just got out of collage so she used the homestead act and lived in it a few years, My son left his wife and moved in before I could get rid of the house... That heat pump eats and eats hard I would never go there again... I would be thinking gas pack :wink: if natural gas is available hook on to it even if it cost you to hook on... Even if your option is LP buy a big asre tank and have some say about the price of LP...

I am not weak enough to buy a heat pump again I learned my lesson...
 
I'm in the same boat as you. We put in an new Amana air to air heat pump about three years ago. Had an Amana before that and it was about 17 years old when I decided to not put any money into it.

We heat with about 95% wood. The heat pump kicks on when we leave long enough to not get wood in once a day. Maybe once a month or so. I keep the central fan running at all times. It's a DC motor so it doesn't run fast - just circulation. We have to do that in his 100 year old house or we have major hot and cold spots.

This isn't a very big unit but it is the first one I have had that the A/C actually cycles on and off periodically when it is 100 degrees out. All of the ones before ran continuously in that situation. The house is 5 bedroom so it isn't an easy task. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Especially since the heat side would rarely need to kick on.
 
Trane or American Standard are the top rated units. Both made by the same company, just with different names on the units. I had a Coleman, it was bad news. Replaced it with an Amana, it also had problems until my AC guy got it straightened out. Amana is now owned by Goodman. Our new house came with a Goodman, which is kind of the low end quality of heat pumps. I've only had to replace the capacitor once in 5 years so it is doing pretty good. Keep a replacement capacitor on hand though; that seems to be a weakness with that unit.
 
Back when I was taking refrigeration classes I learned my lesson on them. I would not wast My time or money on one if I wanted heat. If you only want to raise temp 15 degrees when it is 50 degrees then they will work for that but if you want more forget it. They have a built in electric heater to make the heat for the unit to transfer, Better to just have the electric heat in the rooms as it will be cheaper. Only electric heat I use are portable 1500 what heaters for extra spot heat. Have LP furnace with LP space heaters for backup.
 
I've had Trane units for 20 years, trouble free. Installed a whole house surge protector to protect the electronics. Virginia is a good location for heat pumps, because of the long cooling season from May through October. You can always add a woodstove to cut down the heating bill.
 
In a house with no pre-existing ductwork, a "mini-split", (aka ductless) system is the only way to go. Mitsubishi is the leader in this technology. I installed a system myself a couple of years ago and it has worked great, but I would recommend you hire a professional installer.

Our system is nearly silent. Our outside unit sits next to our deck, yet we can sit outside and not hear it above noise from the freeway half a mile away. The indoor units are even quieter.
Mitsubishi mini split
 
We installed a 'Daikin' system 3 years ago (similar - different brand) and we really like it. Never had A/C before. Electricity cost dropped over 50% ! Will have paid for itself in 2 more years.
 
I would never have another heat pump. They work well if it doesn't get cold.....let it get below freezing and they are worthless. Thank goodness for the fireplace.
 
Go with geothermal. We had a closed loop system put in seven years ago and love it. It also makes most of the domestic hot water. We're on the budget plan for electricity to even out the bills and pay $140/month for electric and $20/month for gas for a 1200 sq. ft. 3 bedroom ranch. Much more efficient than an air heat pump. Much easier to get heat out of 50 degree water than 10 degree air.
 
The best heat pump is a ground source het pump. They work in hot and cold weather, getting heat from a well in the winter then putting heat in the well in the summer. They are much more expensive but much cheaper to run. I've had one for ten years and love it. This time of year the ground is warm from the air conditioning so the first several weeks of heating are extremely efficient. There are lots of utility and state programs to help pay for them.
 
My daughter lives in central Indiana and has a heat pump and it uses a lot of electric in cold weather plus that system has several motors to maintain. I have baseboard electric heat and pay fraction of what she pays and both house are about same size and insulated the same. I live about 150 miles north of where she lives.
 
Gpoodman is not low end equipment just because the price is right. Goodman makes units for most other companies including Johnstone, Janatrol, Amana, and even some units for trane. They are easy to instal and maintain. I have probably instaled 2000 Goodman nits . The worst as I see it is the older Tranes, I replaced more Trane compressors than any other kind, GE being the next worst. Seldom had a call back on Goodman if it was installed properly. Over the years the worst units I replaced or repaired were Yorks. Got a contract to service 4400 Yorks for several years. Lots and lots of work.
As far as heat pumps. they are ok down to 40 degree F but become very inefficient below that and are worthless below freezing.
 


Below 35 degrees a heat pump unit simply switches to a heat strip.. The same heat strip that everyone else uses, same cost of usage. Heat strips all put out the same heat vrs power used, so your just paying extra for the fan unit to distribute the heat everywhere. heating btus from heat strips is pretty standard with little variation. So the cost of heat is also pretty much the same.

Only difference is is heating the whole house vrs heating individual rooms. This is a problem with most central units vrs room units.

For heating when temps are above 35 degrees, a heat pump kicks butt over heat strips on cost of usage. However again, if you only heat one room, why bother.
 

Leroy, the heating coil raise temps 15 to 22 degrees but it does it over and over and over so the air is slowly warmed up the thermostat setting. There is not a limit of 15 degree for the total temp setting, only a 15 to 20 degree raise each time the air passes over it. Its the same temp change as in the cooling cycle. And for heating cycle when outside temps are 35 degrees or warmer, its very inexpensive. For heating cycles when it lower than 35 degrees outside, the heat strips kick in, the same heat strips as on baseboards, and other electric resistance heat products.

how much heating do you do above 35 degrees vrs how much below, do you heat the whole house, are factors that make your heating decision. Down in more moderate climates, the heat pump wins hands down for both cooling and heating. ground thermo systems are better choice in colder climates if you can afford the upfront costs. Gas systems are very good pending price and availability of natural gas. Or as most do, spot heating will have to suffice as its all that can be afforded.
 
In my area, average low temp in winter is 29F so heat pump works ok. My main system is a geothermal with a horizontal ground loop. Great system and is very efficient to run. But EXPENSIVE to install even with the 30% federal tax write-off and the state grant. And unless you do it yourself, add to that the cost of landscaping after they dig the ground loop. My cost was about $18,000 for a 4-ton system after rebates. Cost to replace the existing heat pump: about $8,000. Will the geothermal make up the difference in energy savings over the next 10 years before the equipment wears out? I doubt it.
 
I live in centeral Indiana. 2000+ ft home plus garage plus shop. I have electric baseboard. FIXED, not budget electric, $135/mo. Nothing to repair, will last forever. Very cheap to install. Every room is set to desired temp. I use a Rudd seer 12 central. No wood heat either.

Boy has a smaller house. New trane heat pump, $8500. His electric bill is more because he has 3 kids, plus wife.


You couldn't give me a heat pump. When you need them the most, they switch over to electric backup.
 
We have a Colman air to air heat pump. 3 ton. House is 1320 sq. ft. With ,lp. Backup. Heat pump will work down to 20 degrees if wind is not blowing. Did use 250 gal lap last winter. Also have a heat pump water heater. 10 yes old at least. Only trouble is fan motor on outside unit. And motor on inside unit.plus mice ate wires outside. On capacitor. Would buy one again. Think is 13 seer. Would get a 18 next time. 130$ is a big bill. Vic.
 
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