OT - magneto v conventional ignition

[HFJ]

i want to convert all my tractors here to use the same key. i figured i'd go with indak mower switches. i notice that they are described as being for magneto ignition. i've been told that a magneto-compatible switch should, if anything, be more robust than a conventional ignition switch. is this correct?

 

[Bob]

Nope, a "kill switch" for a magneto doesn't need to be very "robust".

And that's what it is... a "kill switch.

Ignition switches for conventional ignition systems feed battery power to the ignition systems when "ON", ignition switches for magneto systems do NOTHING for the ignition system when "ON", but short it's primary side to chassis ground when "OFF" to "kill" spark and cause the engine to stop.

Worst case scenario is accidentally using a switch intended for conventional/battery/Kettering ignition on a magneto system... feeds battery power into the mag (which is intended to be self-powered) and lets the smoke out!

 

[R Geiger]

I have an 8n with a magneto and a kill switch like Bob is talking about. When I shut down for the day I turn the gas off and let it run until dies. I have a conventional 8n ign switch on it that I use if I want to shut it down for some reason. By the way I like the magneto, have not opened it up in 6 plus years.

 

[duey]

The most likely "failure" of a magneto switch is to fail to kill the magneto... in which case the engine keeps running. But you need to remember that a mag switch is a Kill Switch... where an ignition switch is a "make contact" switch... meaning also that it is 'powered' from the battery and continues the power out to the coil/distributor.

That is two totally different functions. My 2 cents.

 

[HFJ]

thanks, guys. i had a feeling i wanted to get a second opinion on this - glad i did

whereas they both open and close an electrical circuit, the dealbreaker, regardless of how robust a particular switch may be, is that the key can only be removed from the magneto switch with the electrical circuit closed.

back to the drawing board. i guess i could just buy two conventional ignition switches, but i don't know what it would cost me to get one rekeyed to match the other. the appeal of the indak switches was price, considering i'd have only needed one more and no rekeying would be necessary.

 

[Bob]

HJF, simply use generic automotive ignition switches and for the nachine with a mag, install a "Bosch-style relay" using the common and N.C. contacts to ground the mag at shutdown, and "open" the "kill" circuit when the relay is activated when the key is turned to "ON". SIMPLE and cheap and NO rekeying will be needed.

 

[Bob]

I meant to add the generic/universal automotive ignition switches are typically keyed alike.

Walmart even used to have them, may still have them.

 

[HFJ]

thanks, bob. i didn't realize they were keyed the same. i ordered 2 switches from here. i got one for the N and one for my WD, and i'll just continue to leave the indak key in the mower.

that was too easy

 

[Bob]

As I said, typically they are keyed the same, NOT sure about the ones from here!

Our town has an older Wabco road grader I installed a universal ignition switch in and every couple of years when they lose the key and the spare I make 'em a couple of copies of the one from the universal ignition switch I installed in an older truck of mine about the same time I replaced the one in the grader.

 

[Bob]

Also, speaking of "Indak" switches, a customer has an "A" International with a magneto and wanted a key switch installed for safety (with kids around) quite a few years ago.

It has been converted to 12 Volts and has had a starter solenoid installed, instead of the original mechanical switch.

I installed an "Indak" garden tractor switch like you were talking about I had on hand for a DEERE garden tractor, and it's still working flawlessly.

The version for battery ignition (DEERE # AM103286) is only some $12 right at the DEERE dealer. That would have ben an option for you, as well.

 

[HFJ]

no worries, bob. i ordered them a few hours before u posted, and i asked about the keying, and he said he believes they're the same.

i had two spare indak switches here. one's a 2 terminal, and it works. too bad i didn't notice the key position was swapped. the other was 5 or 6 terminals. too bad that one had no continuity between any 2 posts in any of the 3 key positions. now i don't feel too bad about scrapping it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 22:34:08 04/09/18)
no worries, bob. i ordered them a few hours before u posted, and i asked about the keying, and he said he believes they're the same.

i had two spare indak switches here. one's a 2 terminal, and it works. too bad i didn't notice the key position was swapped. the other was 5 or 6 terminals. too bad that one had no continuity between any 2 posts in any of the 3 key positions. now i don't feel too bad about scrapping it.

Universal key for ignition switches :roll:

TOH

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 11:44:23 04/10/18)

(quoted from post at 22:34:08 04/09/18)
no worries, bob. i ordered them a few hours before u posted, and i asked about the keying, and he said he believes they're the same.

i had two spare indak switches here. one's a 2 terminal, and it works. too bad i didn't notice the key position was swapped. the other was 5 or 6 terminals. too bad that one had no continuity between any 2 posts in any of the 3 key positions. now i don't feel too bad about scrapping it.

Universal key for ignition switches :roll:

TOH

:lol:

i've got a couple of those keys, and while they'll work great for the WD, i'm thinking they might be less than ideal for the ford once i put the hood back on :idea:

 

[HFJ]

the switches from here did come with identical keys. interestingly, while those keys and my existing key are all stamped C250, they're clearly not the same blank. not sure what to make of that.