OT: Polaris Ranger

Steve@Advance

Well-known Member
Boss bought a used Polaris Ranger 900 XP, 2014 model.

He wanted me to drive it and listen to the transmission.

So, I drove it this evening. Not sure how it is supposed to act, never driven one before.

Trying to take off from a stop is very jerky. No easy way to take off, the engine revs, the clutch grabs and it launches. Let off just a little, it stops, or makes a series of lurches.

Is this normal?

Then there is a noise when coasting to a stop. Something in the transmission, best way I can describe it is a "dry bushing" type squeal.

I haven't checked any fluid levels, there is no owners manual. I plan on trying to but a shop manual tomorrow.

Does anyone own one or have experience with one?

Any idea if this is normal?

Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 19:11:18 08/22/17) Boss bought a used Polaris Ranger 900 XP, 2014 model.

He wanted me to drive it and listen to the transmission.

So, I drove it this evening. Not sure how it is supposed to act, never driven one before.

Trying to take off from a stop is very jerky. No easy way to take off, the engine revs, the clutch grabs and it launches. Let off just a little, it stops, or makes a series of lurches.

Is this normal?

Then there is a noise when coasting to a stop. Something in the transmission, best way I can describe it is a "dry bushing" type squeal.

I haven't checked any fluid levels, there is no owners manual. I plan on trying to but a shop manual tomorrow.

Does anyone own one or have experience with one?

Any idea if this is normal?

Thanks!

Sounds normal to me. RZR 800 is same way

The jerky takeoff is the nature of a bell clutch and belt drive. That's how Polaris are. There's a fine line between the clutch skipping as it's meant to and the belt grabbing. I notice it more in reverse. There may be some adjustment, I've never looked, but it could involve aftermarket clutch or clutch springs.

As for "dry bushing" I'd say normal too. The RZR is the same way. There's little to no engine braking especially down hill off the throttle. Everything is freewheeling, again bell clutch and belt.

Takes some getting used to, but 5 years later my RZR is mechanically just fine. The high idle that they all seem to have just makes it seem worse.
 
Well the sudden take off is kind of normal for them. They have a belt drive system that is derived from the old snowmobile systems. The ones I have driven seem to have to be revved up a good bit to move and then you get a jerky take off. They seem to not have a smooth take off. They are more of a performance type of unit. Meaning you run the heck out of them and they are fine. Try to drive them slow and they will have trouble.

The noise your hearing is not normal. It could be the brakes. IRC they are on the transmission itself. I will tell you this my son works on lots of ATVs. HE hates Polaris units to work on. They are not fun to work on at all. Parts are pretty pricy too.
 
My friend has one. Keeps it at our place. It is a little herky jerky. You have to get used to it. As to the noise , can't say much without hearing it. But his is not real quiet. He has had good service record from it.
 
My brother works for a equipment rental company that rents those out, he complains about having to work on those all the time. He calls them overpriced pieces of junk (I can't post word for word of what he really says about them).
 
Have quite a few of these among friends and several that I work on, RZR's Rangers and 4 wheelers from 570's to 1000 turbo's. They all have the same basic belt drive/trans system. A little subtle jerking can be felt when trying to creep along real slow, if its jerking a lot its usually a sign that the belt got wet and somebody hammered the throttle putting burn spots on the belt. They all make a slight chattering noise on decel like you mentioned but with burned spots the noise is worse too.

It's not a bad thing to have an extra belt laying around, you can get them from a local auto parts store too. The belt is real easy to inspect or replace, burn spots are visually noticeable. A few take a spare belt when they go play, often its one that they burned spots on.
 
Takes a little practice on getting them to start smoothly. Just start with enough throttle to get the clutch to spool up and when you feel some tension add more throttle. Taught my 12 yr old grand daughter how to get a perfect launch in about 15 minutes. I use my Ranger multiple times every day on the ranch hauling equipment, pulling trailers, checking fields, etc and have yet to put a dollar into the machine. I can run 40 mph through my hay fields and it just floats across the rough stuff. Good on fuel, burns no oil, and is ready to work every day. About two years ago the electrical system was erratic but it was just a loose connection on an electrical connection. If you buy a new one, check the oil frequently until the rings are seated or you can burn up the engine. If you have kids, remind them to check the oil as they tend to run them hard when new and never check the oil for weeks on end. JMHO
 
I don't have a Polaris. I do have a kaw mule 4010 and it's very smooth. Idle speed is very critical on mule, 950-1050. It fuel injected and computer is in charge of idle speed. When it's cold idle speed will increase for a few seconds and you have to wait before putting it in gear. Anything faster than 1050 and you will grind gears when you put it in gear. I have a go-cart for grand kids. If the belt is worn just a little, it will jerk. Hard to look at belt and tell it has a problem. Belt is very cheap and I keep a spare hanging on barn wall.
 
I have a Ranger bought new 2 years ago. At first it seemed a little too jerky taking off but I do not notice it much any more. I think you get accustomed to it and learn to press the pedal and go. As for the noise when slowing down from a faster speed. Mine has been doing that since new. After getting it home and hearing the noise I call the dealer service manager. He said noting is wrong, "I hear that ever day around here." I have learned to slow down more gradual to avoid hearing so much or applying brakes a little more. If anyone has a solution I would like to know.
 
I have a 2005 Ranger 800 that is very touchy on take off too, been that way since new. The 500 carb equipped model I traded in was much easier with smooth take off than the EFI models are. The 2007 RZR is like the Ranger is too. Smoothest one I have is the 1999 Diesel ATV, not as much speed though..
 
I'll second the belt. If the sheaves are worn, aftermarket makes pulleys/ clutches that run more smoothly.

My friend works at a dealer, he's driven 800s into the shop with a piston hanging out the block.
 
Thanks everyone.

I found an owners manual online I can look at. I'm going to check/change fluids, look at/replace the belt.

Sounds like it's just the nature of the beast. He's not too concerned with the take off, just the noise when decelerating. Maybe I'll see something in the belt area.

Thanks again!
 
I agree with what others have said, change the belt and see, good to have a spare anyway.
One other thing, don't let it sit and idle, even in neutral, the drive clutch is spinning and the belt isn't, causing a wear spot on the belt.
 
I have almost 2000 miles on my 2016 Ranger 900XP, it helps new operators to turn the readout to the RPM's mine engages at 2050 rpms, ease up to that and you will have smoother take off, as far as never letting them idle, mine is used as a run to town machine as well as all the other uses I have for it, so it has to idle to warm yp in the winter for longer periods, it does not burn the belt at all and they should not unless the clutches are set wrong, I have owned snowmobiles since 1971 and none of my sleds ever burn the belt for sitting and idling, I get 2000-4000 miles on my snowmobile belts, I also have owned five new polaris 4 wheels, still have two now, I have never replaced a belt on them to date and my 96 300 Express is on its second set of tires now that are 70% worn now, it has lived its whole life with a 30 gallon sprayer on it and spends hours on end idling when spraying, something is worg if they burn them sitting as they are made to idle, I have also found on my Ranger the first time running it if it has sat and got cold, is to run the engine up over engagement rpms and let the clutch system "warm" up a bit 20-30 seconds is usually enough then it will work much smoother works for me anyway
cnt
 
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