OT Suggestions for metal barn roof.

sbin

Member
I would like some get some advice,suggestions and or experiences with metal roofing for an out building.What would you use and why?
Gathering materials now for barn/shop to store our tractor,backhoe and assorted tools
Will be doing the work building it ourselves roughly 24'x32' 8/12 pitch with a 14' shed off one side.
We salvaged about 200-2x12x16 and 80-3/4" plywood from an old warehouse demo.
I have plenty of experience with shingles but would like to try metal.Since the project budget has been helped greatly by free materials spending extra on the roof shouldn't be a big problem.
 
Hello,I would inquire imfo. from some major shed builders Morton,Quanset,etc. on what they use and what they use to hold it down with enjoy your day sir!
 
I'm far from being an expert, but I have built a few sheds. I always put 2x4 lath boards across the truss and screw my metal to them. I know several people who have put metal roofs on their house. They roll out tarpaper and screw 1x4 boards across their roof over the tarpaper and screw the metal roofing to the 1x4.
 
I havn't used anything but steel roofing for 20 years now - wouldn't ever consider going back to anything else - not around here.

Snow will shed off of steel easy - especially when the sun hits it. 6/12 pitch though is about the max that you can walk on (when dry wearing sneakers). In areas where there are entranceways under eaves, you might want some "snow stops" on the roof to keep avanlances off of people's heads.

You want to use a good vapor barrier - especially with a purlin-roof with no plywood underneath. With sheaved roofs (5/8" equiv. plywood) and steel over it, condensation is not as bad of a problem. Last one I did, in the Adirondack Mountains with 40F below temps in the winter, and 90F plus temps in the summer, the combo of 5/8" plywood, Ice-shield vapor barrier, and steel has worked great.

I've heard comlaints in high sunshine areas of paint peeling from some older and cheaper brands of roofing - but I haven't seen it here in New York.
 
I AVE USED METEAL ROOFING FOR THE LAST 20 YEARSon housees barns andn sheds.
therem is really nothing better.
All the above good things are mtrue. I currently have my house aND SHOP IN METAL
 
200 2x12x16 ,wow, Get your self a good rip saw and go to work.Rip all your Side wall Nailers,Roof Purlins and misc 2x4-2x6 etc Lumber. Suggest buying all your Trusses from an Plant that can furnish Load Data on your needs.I prefered SYP for Lumber in my Trusses. Metal can be bought from a number of MFG.'s and most current Suppliers furnish quality material. Also suggest building your own laminated pressure treated posts. Look at a Bldg by Morton etc and copy ther post design.Not Rocket Science but common sense and observation of others attempts will show the pit falls to avoid. A building the size and Roof Slope such as yours is DIYS friendly. Use the Plywood to line the interior and do not forget to insulate the Roof area especially prior to putting in a ceiling. Consider Screws instead of Nails to attach the side wall and roof metal. Concrete floors with Vapor Barrier below the Concrete will give usually a dry floor in condensation conditions.
 
Last Winter I noticed and you responded to the fact that you had not got your tractor shed enclosed prior to winter and snow was ,How should I put it, entering your bldg. Just wondering ,actually I have thought several times about ,Did you ever get that shed enclosed? Snow situation in your part of the country could be quite uncomfortable I would think. Unusual situation here where I live is,not 29 miles and 4500' elevation away they will have 4" snow and freezing early in the Morning while we have 55' and no snow for sure. The Mogollan Rim runs NW to SE in more or less the middle of the State of Az. to create two distinctly different weather Zones. If you have a momentary desire for snow,get in your car and drive 1-2 hrs north and after you have satisfied your Snow urge turn around and come on back down into the Valley of the Sun.That is the main reason our Population increase and Developement is pretty much out of control for the present. Some compare what is going on around our Valley to L.A.Calif and it's Valley last Century. Happy New years JC.
 
Done thousands of square feet of steel. First, avoid home depot if you can. Order full length cut to the inch steel. If you are ordering trusses, order basd on the top chord run length (making sure it includes overhang). Figure screws at about 85 per square, purlins spaced at 24 inches on center. I recommend bubble pack underlayment if it will be heated (Plyco company plyfoil, single bubble, white side down). Order the end trims so that one piece will get cut in half and folded over at the peak, and the rest figure accordingly. Ridge cap with outside closures (with adhesive is nice). Max length allowable is 40" without end seams. If you have to have ends seams, make each run a 1/3 - 2/3 and alternate (2/3 - 1/3) so that four sheets don"t lap at one point. Anything else you think I can halp with, let me know.

Bill

ps: My barn is 8+:12, and the snow does not stay on!
 
I have put this stuff on in my dreams.... it is an excellent choice for snow loads, winds and maintenance -- long lived too. In your neck of the woods check out an "ABC" distributor (the one I recollect in PA (LANCASTER area ) is Amos Martins sales -- around here it is his son Earl who sells and supplies us with materials and he has a press/former whereby if you want a piece 40' 2 1/2" long he can form it.. Prices here are now running $2 a running foot (i.e. 10' = $20) no matter the length; widths are actually 38" but lay to 36" exactly; best way is to put them on full lenghts with a little overhang (1 1/2") for drip "beyond" the projections; what Bill in Pa has mentioned is real good info (not to exclude other good input) and most of what he has said is what I do here in UpState NY (Finger lakes Region) As the other Gent said: if you are facing your slopes with the door openings , don't consider but rather plan on ice/snow stops... good investment ! don't forget the trim pieces, can't really cheapen up a good fix -- besides it keeps the elements and criiters out (not all together though) and prevents lift and screw pulls. Just ask if you need more info, I have a book full
 
We are building in Ohio Amish country just north west of Pittsburgh / Youngstown area.
So this information about dealers,trim,fasteners and application is exactly what I need draw up a materail list and budget.
A visit to the local ABC distributor will be a good place to start.After looking over available panels and trim I would like to ask some more specific questions.
Here is a site with a similar building.Ours will be taller with a lower pitch in order to take advantage of 16' lumber.
Untitled URL Link
 
Bill,
We are using the max pitch 2x12 will allow, somewhere between 8-10/12.Afriend that mills lumber will provide other need lumber - 6x6x12' and siding.Calling in some favors on this job!
 
SBIN: The major plant for the ABC company is in Indianapolis, IN , so not that bad as far as tech questions or availability. There must be a distributor near you -- stay away from Home depot and Lowes... same product but much more expensive and not very knowledgeable people for the product and trim. Everything still comes from ABC people and that means waiting for odds and ends, wrong sizes shipped, poor color co-ordination(s), higher shipping fees/delivery costs, and just a outright hassle to do business with. Find your local ABC place and go with it ! Abc offers different styles as well as many colors to choose from... the most common is what is called the Imperial rib design, easiest to install and as leak proof as you can get...other designs (monarch to mention just one) can be harder to install and require little room for forgiveness's whereas Imperial is pretty much straight forward repetative installation. In your neck of the woods there just has to be an ABC place or places to choose from... if it were me, I would not pay more than $2 a running foot -- you can even buy seconds, blemish's or cover sheets for a lot less if you ask; however, there are some limitations given those choices. Use screws designed with sealing washers, don't overtighten (set your clutch on # 3 to start with and adjust accordingly) and use 1" long for the regular flat work and longer as needed for the trim and ridge work.. if you make a mistake and need to cover the hole ask the dealer for some "stich" screws and tighten them carefully but not too much and to be sure of it cover the stiching screws with some GOOD silicone if you need/want extra durability. Those screws may not be available in the same color as your work though -- make do as you need, ect. If you can't find an ABC dealer near you go online Punch in ABC roofing , ect, for a search and get there toll free number and take it from there... Ask the dealer for a installation sheet it will make your work professional and much easier going -- JIM
 
Thanks Jim!
Called ABC and got a list of local dealers today.The price qouted on panel was around $2.60 a running foot.Hope I can find someone local that will sell for $2.
 
SBIN: peck away at them for a price cut--- I know it can be done because if I can buy it here in NY as high as things are here then it can be done elsewheres. Contractors discounts are always there for the taking too . Do you have any contacts in the trade -- they can get you what you want or perhaps they have contacts that have material or can get you a much better price. At any rate it is the best fix for your construction needs. As I have said keep looking for someone that isn't so greedy and you will have a good source for the present and the future needs. If I knew someone that was heading your way I would purchase it here for you and have them bring it to you.. keep plugging at it. ... One thing to remember is: white and black in certain lengths is always cheaper in price JIM
 
SBIN: Forgot to mention that you can purchase unpainted (galvanized) sheets much cheaper then painted types.. Then over time you can either paint or coat as needed. JIM
 

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