OTish car starter question

used red MN

Well-known Member
Location
Coon Rapids, MN
97 Buick Lesabre suddenly no starter engagement, lights on dash come on like normal with ignition switch and turning it to start position. I connected a starter remote crank switch at the solenoid S terminal. Turn key on and hit remote starts right up but dies after 3 - 4 seconds. My guess is fuel pump is not getting power, so it is only running on the initial system pump up. Anybody have a suggestion for me? To rows of higher amp blade fuses on firewall all check good power on both sides. Drove it everyday this week no prior indication of a problem.
 
97 Buick Lesabre suddenly no starter engagement, lights on dash come on like normal with ignition switch and turning it to start position. I connected a starter remote crank switch at the solenoid S terminal. Turn key on and hit remote starts right up but dies after 3 - 4 seconds. My guess is fuel pump is not getting power, so it is only running on the initial system pump up. Anybody have a suggestion for me? To rows of higher amp blade fuses on firewall all check good power on both sides. Drove it everyday this week no prior indication of a problem.
97 Buick Lesabre suddenly no starter engagement, lights on dash come on like normal with ignition switch and turning it to start position. I connected a starter remote crank switch at the solenoid S terminal. Turn key on and hit remote starts right up but dies after 3 - 4 seconds. My guess is fuel pump is not getting power, so it is only running on the initial system pump up. Anybody have a suggestion for me? To rows of higher amp blade fuses on firewall all check good power on both sides. Drove it everyday this week no prior indication of a problem.
Turn key to on position security light should go out after about 8 seconds. If light stays on or blinks you have a security problem.
 
I got it fixed by bypassing the circuit. The security system works by reading the resistor in the key. Something goes wrong in the detection circuit where it passes up through the tilt column and the key tumbler. So you wire a resistor in at the base of the column under the dash, this bypasses the need for the resistor in the key. If you watch the video posted by Hobo it will help you understand the rest what I say. My son found an assortment of .25 watt resistors on Amazon. Was able to get same day delivery. I essentially needed 3000 ohm resistor. The kit had a 2000 and 1000 due to tolerances put together in a series they gave me 2950, which was close enough. Solder it in and shrink tube it now back in business. Almost 220k on it.
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On another note, anyone recognize what an add on keyless entry looks like? Probably unusual for a 1997 not to have keyless entry, but it does not. Might even be a remote start. I was never offered a FOB when I bought it used through a private party. There are what look like three cube relays fastened together, it is the item with all the butt
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connectors that have no connections and the crimp on insulated female spade terminals are plugging into the “cube relays?” The other photo is wired connected to it making connections into the main harness going into the column.
 
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