Paint troubles

[Chance M]

I blasted, then used Ospho to treat my M rims. The pitting on inside is severe, but believe I'll get some years out of them now.

Problem is, I'm using paint from tractor supply. The red oxide primer I'm using after 2-3 days, still isn't hard. You can push hard and slide your finger and make a light print.

Can I go ahead and put my silver paint over that, with a hardener I might add and be ok? Really hate blast off what I've already done. Can I add a harder to the primer for future use?

 

[Andy Martin]

Let the paint cure a few weeks if you can. It will get hard eventually if you have anything else to do in the mean time.

 

[El Toro]

I think you should remove all the primer down to bare metal. Buy a good primer from PPG, Martin Senour or Dupont.
Hal

 

[gene bender]

What did the instructions on the can say

 

[CNKS]

I know you are trying to save money, but if you want reliable paint stay out of so called farm stores. I use acrylic urethane from PPG, costs probably 3 or 4 times the 1930's paint from TSC but it is easy to apply and lasts. Decent primer can be topcoated the next day, most of the time the same day. If you want a fairly decent paint that doesn't cost a lot, get it from CaseIH, I haven't used it, but most people who have approve it. CaseIH will have silver paint close to the original paint, and 2150 red.

 

[David G]

Give them a few weeks to cure, there is not way you can remove it now, short of re-blasting.

 

[gab]

I used the Farm/Fleet primer red primer on the inside of my rims and it dried slow but I wasn't in a hurry anyway. Like somebody else said I like the IH paint and primer and the rim paint, silver argent I think it's called.
There's a paint shop a few miles away from me that paints tractors and I think that's all he uses, neighbor collected some top shelf Farmalls and even some JDs and they look as good as it gets.

 

[ralph1111]

Just spray the silver on and forget it.

 

[Chance M]

(quoted from post at 08:18:08 06/07/15) I know you are trying to save money, but if you want reliable paint stay out of so called farm stores. I use acrylic urethane from PPG, costs probably 3 or 4 times the 1930's paint from TSC but it is easy to apply and lasts. Decent primer can be topcoated the next day, most of the time the same day. If you want a fairly decent paint that doesn't cost a lot, get it from CaseIH, I haven't used it, but most people who have approve it. CaseIH will have silver paint close to the original paint, and 2150 red.

I believe you are right. I'll let these wheels go and leave this primer, but gonna get some real paint to finish the machine. All this work and time not worth a weak paint that'll fade in no time prolly. Was trying to save....it usually bites our asses at some point, I know better.

Ralph, that's what I'm gonna do,lol... Paint these bad boys and take the paint back to TSC, lol. Got tubes and tires going back on tomorrow, might not happen now...smh!

 

[Andy Martin]

Interesting our different perspectives, isn't it? We probably need about four categories of questions to get more consistent responses on this board.

1 I'm doing a "better than factory" restoration, all casting numbers must match, all round dot bolts, each part sand blasted and painted before assembly. Tires had better not ever see any mud. May not want to start it to avoid burning paint off the manifold and discoloring the muffler. NOS required.

2 I'm doing a "factory quality" restoration, casting numbers are whatever if they fit, painted after assembly, plan to parade tractor and maybe do light work. Aftermarket add-on's ok.

3 I'm doing a "practical" restoration, want the tractor to look good in a parade but it has to do work and will get scratched up. Modern add-on's like an alternator and sealed beam lights are ok.

4 I'm fixing up my old junk and want to keep it running as long as possible. But I will plow it through brush with my brush hog behind.

All four of these types are on this discussion board, both asking questions and contributing. My answer for painting wheels, for instance, is for 3 or 4 above. I want the paint dry and hard where the tube or tire contacts it and I want to avoid future corrosion. But I use aluminum paint because it is cheap, dries quickly, and looks pretty much original, especially after weathering. You will not get the same answer from different contributors when each are answering from different perspectives above.

Just an observation.

 

[Nebraska Cowman]

It will harden by and by. I'd not worry about it. And I think hardner is over-rated. It just speeds up what is going to happen anyway. As far as fading the best protection is to keep the tractor stored inside. And a coat of wax once in a while will help paint keep it's shine years longer.

 

[Chance M]

If my wheels where in great condition, I might reblast. But, they are very pitted, to point that I should replace prolly. After all though, they are just wheels and require no part of the restored machine to be restored should I decide to get new rims and tires, which I'll have to eventually because the tires are so dry.

The paint has hardened more, so I think it'll be alright. Went ahead and put my silver on. They look ok, the pitting is very noticeable though, they'll do for now.

Thx for input guys, God speed. Chance

 

[Jim Becker]

(quoted from post at 06:18:56 06/08/15) . . . And I think hardner is over-rated. It just speeds up what is going to happen anyway.

It can really hurry up COPD, whether it was going to happen or not. Factor in the risks and the equipment requirements to reduce the risks, and hardener becomes a very expensive option.