Painting wheels

[stevieb49829]

I moved this topic up from the paint forum for better exposure:

I need some advice. I sandblasted my wheels on the tractor myself. The wheels would not come off the axles. They are a combination of cast centers and steel rims and were rusty from chloride leaks. The blasting got the wheels down to stable (stuck) old paint and bare metal. The rims don't leak and are still solid.

Then I applied a rust converter (Corroseal), which did its job of turning the wheels deep black. Now my options are to brush a coat of good DTM white gloss as a primer (I have the paint) and then apply the final brush coat of Rustoleum (a custom blend to get the Massey Harris yellow). or skip the DTM white and go straight to the final coat of Rustoleum yellow.

This is not a show tractor, but I want the wheel paint to last. Is it worth putting the white on prior to the final yellow? I was thinking yellow over the black would be harder to cover and hide the black, than putting yellow over the white. Are there good and bad points to having the layer of white under the yellow. All the specs on the paint and rust converter say they are compatible. steve

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I moved this topic up from the paint forum for better exposure:

I need some advice. I sandblasted my wheels on the tractor myself. The wheels would not come off the axles. They are a combination of cast centers and steel rims and were rusty from chloride leaks. The blasting got the wheels down to stable (stuck) old paint and bare metal. The rims don't leak and are still solid.

Then I applied a rust converter (Corroseal), which did its job of turning the wheels deep black. Now my options are to brush a coat of good DTM white gloss as a primer (I have the paint) and then apply the final brush coat of Rustoleum (a custom blend to get the Massey Harris yellow). or skip the DTM white and go straight to the final coat of Rustoleum yellow.

This is not a show tractor, but I want the wheel paint to last. Is it worth putting the white on prior to the final yellow? I was thinking yellow over the black would be harder to cover and hide the black, than putting yellow over the white. Are there good and bad points to having the layer of white under the yellow. All the specs on the paint and rust converter say they are compatible. steve

I have spray painted my rims with enamel implement paint and a Rust-Oleum primer coat.
I first coated the rubber tires with used motor oil a fer times. Then spray painted and used a rag soaked with diesel to wipe off the over spray.
A paint brush will apply more paint. A paint

gun is faster.

 

[stevieb49829]

I would use my spray gun, but without an air dryer, and our damp spring conditions, I was spraying water along with the abrasive when I sandblasted. Not good conditions for paint. I do like the Rustoleum thinned with naptha to spray, though. It worked really well on my sheetmetal parts.

 

[JD Dave]

Most rust converters create a good base for a topcoat. I'm not familiar with the DTM product primer you are considering.
Many times, mixing products from different manufacturers can complicate and impede the proceess toward a good job.
I think at this point when you have applied the rust converter, you can do a topcoat with no problem.
That being said, I suggest you go over all surfaces with an appropriate grade of Scoth-Brite pad, scuff every nook and cranny, before topcoating to maximizing the paint adherence.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I would cut out a cardboard the size of the rim so you can use it to catch over painting whether it is spray or brush. Other than that I don't paint much. Just wheels for tires where the tire will set on the rims of the wheel /rim so they don't rust on the rim/wheel after years of being on. Some times I paint the exposed portion of the wheel. Rims get painted occasionally on the exposed portion.

 

[WESnIL]

My vote is two coats of primer and then likely two coats of top coat paint. Everything that I did was done with a brush so if going that route, add Floods Penetrol at 10% of paint volume to take out the brush strokes. That's if using oil based paint. Paint without primer is akin to growing corn without fertilizer.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Most rust converters create a good base for a topcoat. I'm not familiar with the DTM product primer you are considering.
Many times, mixing products from different manufacturers can complicate and impede the proceess toward a good job.
I think at this point when you have applied the rust converter, you can do a topcoat with no problem.
That being said, I suggest you go over all surfaces with an appropriate grade of Scoth-Brite pad, scuff every nook and cranny, before topcoating to maximizing the paint adherence.

This is what they say

Yes, but in most applications it is not necessary. An oil based primer is recommended if one is used.

I have used a product like thin a many a time I have had problems with paint adhering to it. I would ruff'er it up good.

 

[stevieb49829]

My vote is two coats of primer and then likely two coats of top coat paint. Everything that I did was done with a brush so if going that route, add Floods Penetrol at 10% of paint volume to take out the brush strokes. That's if using oil based paint. Paint without primer is akin to growing corn without fertilizer.

The Corroseal directions say to apply the topcoat right over the cured and dried rust converter. Adding my DTM (direct to metal) oil base enamel as a primer coat is not in their directions. However, I have the DTM, and I could Scotchbrite scuff the Corroseal, and then put the DTM on as a primer. My final will be the brushed on Rustoleum, unless I get some dry weather so I can spray it on. Do I need to scuff between the DTM and the Rustoleum if I stay inside the recoat window? Both are oil base enamels. One tire is already masked and ready to go. Thanks for all the suggestions so far. steve

 

[Ray,IN]

Black is much harder to cover, and remain so over time.

 

[T.R.K.]

Be careful to read the Rustoleum cans! I messed up, used the same thinner for the paint as the Rustoleum gray primer, and the paint never smoothed out. It looked like the surface of the moon. After I gave up and the paint dried, I finally read the cans, the primer called for Naptha as thinner and the paint called for (I think) mineral spirits to thin it.

You are right. Most times yellow will cover a lighter color than a dark one. But in my experience, it usually takes several coats to completely cover even the light color.

 

[560Dennis]

I’ve had good luck with an inexpensive foam roller , the YT offered paint flows really nice with 8 to one reduction , I think you’ll like it if its something you want to last. Just what I’ve tried
added it’s the van sickle here on YT

 

[da.bees]

Rustoleum has a yellow primer, why not use that and know it's right. Use the white DTM to pretty up something else around the place.

 

[Tgrasher]

Red oxide primer then top coat for lasting rust protection. If you can see your primer you don't have enough coats of color paint and darker primer will help you with this.

 

[Mark-Ia]

John Deere has a buff colored primer, looks like a flat Yellow. I'd use that or a grey colored primer before your top coat. A dark primer will be hard to cover with Yellow paint.

 

[stevieb49829]

I followed the instructions on the rust converter and painted the yellow right over the Corroseal. It took two heavy brush coats, and probably should have a 3rd coat, especially on the cast centers. After it hardens up a bit, I'm going to do a small test scrape to see how hard it is stuck. I have one more outside to do, then I'll post some pics. Like others said, black is hard to cover. steve

 

[moresmoke]

Just a tip for your moisture problems. An air dryer off a semi works really well at removing water from your air supply.


Pic is of an aftermarket option to provide inspiration. I have one taken from a wreck that is hooked to my shop compressor for the sand blaster supply, and I can plug a hose into it when painting. When I am done using it for the day, I stick a blow gun in the purge port to trip it and dump any accumulated moisture.

 

[stevieb49829]

Just a tip for your moisture problems. An air dryer off a semi works really well at removing water from your air supply.

View attachment 108311
Pic is of an aftermarket option to provide inspiration. I have one taken from a wreck that is hooked to my shop compressor for the sand blaster supply, and I can plug a hose into it when painting. When I am done using it for the day, I stick a blow gun in the purge port to trip it and dump any accumulated moisture.

That's a really good idea. I think my local junk yard might have something like that off a junk truck. I'm going to check. I don't know much about how they work. Will I need to wire in a 12V power supply?

Thanks for the suggestion. steve

 

[moresmoke]

That's a really good idea. I think my local junk yard might have something like that off a junk truck. I'm going to check. I don't know much about how they work. Will I need to wire in a 12V power supply?

Thanks for the suggestion. steve

The 12v is only for a heater to prevent icing of the purge valve. I’ve never had an ice problem in the shop?

Its just a filter housing with a inlet and outlet. There is an additional port to actuate the purge valve to drain any accumulated moisture. You could plumb in an airline and valve to work it, I just take an airline hose and blow gun and stick it in the port to cycle the purge valve. Ideally you would drain it at the end of the day after using it in a shop. I do well if I drain mine 3 times a year.

 

[stevieb49829]

The 12v is only for a heater to prevent icing of the purge valve. I’ve never had an ice problem in the shop?

Its just a filter housing with a inlet and outlet. There is an additional port to actuate the purge valve to drain any accumulated moisture. You could plumb in an airline and valve to work it, I just take an airline hose and blow gun and stick it in the port to cycle the purge valve. Ideally you would drain it at the end of the day after using it in a shop. I do well if I drain mine 3 times a year.

Thanks, I thought that might be the case, or some sort of relay for the purge. Does the filter element have to be changed eventually? I'm seeing used dryers on FB marketplace from $25 to $450. I'm going to call the junkyard and get a quote, too.

 

[moresmoke]

Thanks, I thought that might be the case, or some sort of relay for the purge. Does the filter element have to be changed eventually? I'm seeing used dryers on FB marketplace from $25 to $450. I'm going to call the junkyard and get a quote, too.

Todays trucks they recommend changing the element annually, but they have more delicate valves than the older trucks. The AD9 (or clone) like the pic had an element that would maybe be changed 2-3 times in the average trucks life. I have an older version AD1 on my shop compressor, it has been there for close to 30 years. I had put in a reman cartridge when I set it up and haven’t worried about it since.