Parts problems

[Jim in LA]

Received a proof meter and cable from here for my 51 and the inner cable is a little too short to engage in the meter head. I looked to see if there was an extension included but did not see one. Anyone else have this problem?
#2 Ordered alternator kit with universal bracket. I had to watch Dan and Rachels video to understand how it went together. One long bracket that attaches to the tab on the water pump back plate would not fit right and after close inspection from watching the video, I had to remove the nut that was tack welded to the tab. This allowed just enough clearance to permit everything to fit together. The tab actually needs to extend about a quarter inch more. Also the original gen mount was mangled and I still have a little tweaking to do to get the belt alignment spot on. The fun continues!

 

[Hobo,NC]

I duuno what the alignment deal is I will point out their is a spacer that goes on the alt shaft, it goes on then the fan and pulley. That spacer comes in different thickness. You can move the pulley in and out some by using spacers. About a 1/4" would be max as you would run out of threads on the shaft.

Some pulleys use a spacer between the pulley and fan to set the spacing between them, normally that's a set deal and can not be shorten up.

I have been lucky all I have brought fir : ). The ones I rolled my own have been able to master.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 18:27:51 09/13/23)

i had to use washers to get my alt to line up. looks great now tho.

edit: mine came from somewhere else, i don't remember where. it was the first thing i did after i got my N, and i hadn't been here yet. seems like every source of these brackets include some misalignment.

This post was edited by HFJ on 09/14/2023 at 09:31 am.

 

[Jim in LA]

I worked on it most of today and one problem is that I do not have the proper belt on it right now.
I dont know how many people owned this tractor but the one that converted it to twelve volt did
it from scratch and used all shop made parts. He mounted the alternator to the original
generator bracket after smashing up the bracket to make it fit the alternator and used some thin
belt off of who knows what. It does have a Gates number on it. This is where some of my
problem is in getting the original gen bracket straight. As to spacers for the pulley, as I was
looking at the alignment of the alt to water pump It crossed my mind if I could move the
alternator pulley out that would solve the problem. There were no spacers provided in the
alternator kit. Was able to run it for a while, clutch and tranny works and I drove it about thirty
feet. Brakes are so-so and need checking,steering is brutally stiff, steering box may be near
empty as it has been leaking for a long time. I have new seals to put in it. I have the alternator
going to a volt meter and it shows almost 16 volts running. I have a brand new in dash ammeter.
Would it be better to run the alternator through the ammeter instead?

 

[Hobo,NC]

Keep the voltmeter cuzz it provides the most useful information.

If it has the correct alt pulley it would use a B belt (5/8") If you decide to measure for belt application once you get the inches deduct at least 2" (maybe 3") for the correct B belt application. As an example it measures out to be 45" get a B43 belt.

It took me 50 years to horde these they are not for sale. : )

 

[lastcowboy32]

(quoted from post at 14:09:34 09/14/23) I worked on it most of today and one problem is that I do not have the proper belt on it right now.
I dont know how many people owned this tractor but the one that converted it to twelve volt did
it from scratch and used all shop made parts. He mounted the alternator to the original
generator bracket after smashing up the bracket to make it fit the alternator and used some thin
belt off of who knows what. It does have a Gates number on it. This is where some of my
problem is in getting the original gen bracket straight. As to spacers for the pulley, as I was
looking at the alignment of the alt to water pump It crossed my mind if I could move the
alternator pulley out that would solve the problem. There were no spacers provided in the
alternator kit. Was able to run it for a while, clutch and tranny works and I drove it about thirty
feet. Brakes are so-so and need checking,steering is brutally stiff, steering box may be near
empty as it has been leaking for a long time. I have new seals to put in it. I have the alternator
going to a volt meter and it shows almost 16 volts running. I have a brand new in dash ammeter.
Would it be better to run the alternator through the ammeter instead?

I took a steering gearbox off of a Ford 640 and sent it to the local dealer to rebuild... and then put it back on for a friend. About a year later, he tells me that the steering is really stiff.

I check out the tractor and, sure enough... the steering is stiff as a board. The gearbox has a hairline crack in it. I have no idea how it happened, but all of the gear oil was gone.

I put new bearings in the gearbox, epoxied the hairline crack... because I can't weld cast iron... then, I drilled out the gear oil plug and tapped it for a grease fitting. A few tubes of corn head grease, and... done...

Maybe your steering gearbox still has good bearings and such, but the seals are shot... if you don't want to mess with it, corn head grease may be your friend.