Parts washer solvent

[JerryCPP (WA)]

I just bought a Harbor Freight parts washer, in preparation for the overhaul of a TO-20 Ferguson. Regular solvent is expensive, and gets sour in my small wash bucket. What are some less expensive alternatives?

 

[Jeff NWOH]

Not really inexpensive, but I use mineral spirits. Somewhere around $7 gal at Menards.

My parts washer is long overdue but I'm not too keen on buying 20 gallons.

 

[Brad Gyde]

Right, wrong, or indifferent, I have a home made parts washer and I use Diesel fuel in it.. It probably don't work as well as other things, but you said cheap, and it's cheaper than most other alternatives.

To clean off the "oily" residue left behind from the fuel, I use either Ether (starting fluid), Brake-Clean, or a solvent I get from my paint supply store to clean spray guns etc.. I believe the label on the can says #37 Cleaning Solvent.. Has lacquer thinner and naptha in it, per the label, IIRC, as well as a couple other solvents.

I thought about using the previously mentioned solvent to use in my parts washer as opposed to fuel (If I buy a drum I was quoted something like 6.50ish a gallon about 6 months ago), but it flashes/evaporates quickly.. If I were to leave some (say about 1/2" deep in a coffee can) sitting open, in a day or 2 it will be totally gone in warmer temps, it will literally remove cured paint.. especially "cheap" paint, and it just seems way too flammable to have that much sitting out in the open.. But man, it cleans..

Brad

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Read the instructions and look under the lid for a label.... sadly, it will most likely say "use water-based solvents only"...... Sadly, that information is somewhat "unavailable" when these parts washers are purchased..

Do lots of folks use mineral spirits and diesel fuel in these parts washers?? yep,, Your choice, but something to ponder....

 

[rustred]

diesel fuel is my very last choice as a parts cleaner and does the poorest job, and it is the worst for your skin also, and even poisonous. there is so many cleaners out there that surely a person can find something. even varsol mixed with some auto trans works good.

 

[Ted in NE-OH]

I use kerosene and I wear rubber gloves. To get any residual off before painting I use 90% rubbing alcohol.

 

[David G]

I got rid of my Northern aqueous washer and got one from TSC that handles mineral spirits. I get parts washer fluid from NAPA works great.

 

[john *.?-!.* cub owner]

This from tractor supply works very well, but is not cheap.
http://www.external_link/crown-reg-psc-1000-parts-cleaner-5-gal--3893915

 

[Butch(OH)]

The lowest cost way to clean depends on how often you have the need. Years ago I would buy a couple jugs of purple clean and go to the local car wash about 1AM and clean parts there, LOL Truthfully if your needs are seldom your best bet is to load things up and take them to town and drop them off at a shop with a parts washer or hot tank. If you have a bit more than now and then work about your only option is petroleum solvent of some sort. If you clean a lot of parts a spray wash cabinet cannot be touched for cost per part or (properly) ridding yourself of the dregs. Trouble is few have enough use to justify the up front cost of the machine. We bit the bullet a couple years ago and am glad we did. Id guess our cost per batch, electric, soap and all to be about $2 and the washer will hold an entire engine taken apart. An added plus is you can do other work, or take a nap instead of taking a bath and breathing solvents.

 

[Butch(OH)]

The lowest cost way to clean depends on how often you have the need. Years ago I would buy a couple jugs of purple clean and go to the local car wash about 1AM and clean parts there, LOL Truthfully if your needs are seldom your best bet is to load things up and take them to town and drop them off at a shop with a parts washer or hot tank. If you have a bit more than now and then work about your only option is petroleum solvent of some sort. If you clean a lot of parts a spray wash cabinet cannot be touched for cost per part or (properly) ridding yourself of the dregs. Trouble is few have enough use to justify the up front cost of the machine. We bit the bullet a couple years ago and am glad we did. Id guess our cost per batch, electric, soap and all to be about $2 and the washer will hold an entire engine taken apart. An added plus is you can do other work, or take a nap instead of taking a bath and breathing solvents.

 

[SW3]

I'll second the PSC-1000, works well and doesn't smell too bad. I think I go mine at menards though.

 

[sotxbill]

be VERY careful using brakeclean.. if you weld with it, it will create a super deadly gas called phospene... that will do serious damage in very very very small amounts. Usually permanent brain damage...as some have found out too late.

 

[pete 23]

It has become difficult in the last years to get good parts cleaning solovent. We used to get it in a 50 gallon drum at the shop and it always said dry cleaning solvent. I would add a little engine oil to it right off the bat because it really dried up your hands. It was good stuff. In the last few years I have got three different kinds, two were no good and one is pretty good. They start to stink like heck shortly and give me more trouble using than the older , supposedly not so friendly stuff we used to get. Trial and error.