perkins ada 203 engine

[MF165]

I have a mf 165 with a perkins engine diesel that will not turn..
It was running great, clean oil , water,etc....start on the first crank and no knock ( anymore than any diesel engine )..No smoke,
I have been running perkins diesel engines for years....no problems....but then this dude is tedding hay the other day and he said that it made a loud noise and he immediately shut it off..
Any one have this problem? It is not a blown injector..have the injectors out and no fuel filled cylinder...I can't understand how this engine would suddenly lock up ?...any ideas would be appreciated...greatly....

 

[Tony in Mass.]

It is 'locked up'? doesn't turn? Like in 'seized'? You got to look lower than the injector pump. You should take the oil pan off.

 

[John Deere D]

With the clutch pedal fully depressed and transmission in neutral, will engine turn over with electrical starter?

Remove Engine STARTER and try turning engine both CCW and CW with a bar.

Remove Rocker shaft cover, view Valves/pushrods ....

 

[Larry in WNY]

Pull the starter and make sure the bendix gear didn't come apart and jam the flywheel. That happened on our MF 205. A good battery with 1000 cca will help the bendix return to the starter once it starts.

Larry

 

[MF165]

(quoted from post at 09:44:44 06/15/17) Pull the starter and make sure the bendix gear didn't come apart and jam the flywheel. That happened on our MF 205. A good battery with 1000 cca will help the bendix return to the starter once it starts.

Larry

Not the bendix, and yes the engine is seized up..took out the starter and tryed to move with bar no luck , put in new battery, and tried with transmission in neutral, and high/low was in neutral also..and clutch all the way down...still won't turn....
Helped a dude put in a ductless ac/heat system today..plan on starting to take the tractor apart tomorrow....
Thanks for everyones input..
I guess that i will start at the top and work my way down the engine......not sure about removing oil pan....it is cast and i will have to figure a way to support it...

 

[Larry in WNY]

To get the oil pan off, you'll have to remove the hood, fuel tank radiator and front end from the engine. Jack up the rear of the tractor before the clutch. The oil pan is part of the support structure so that can't be removed easily. Once you have all that removed you can place the engine on an engine stand after removing clutch and flywheel. You may need to figure out a way to bolt it on the stand if not a standard bolt pattern like a car engine. I did a 205 and had to make a plate to match the bolts on the engine and mounted that to the engine stand.

Larry

 

[MF165]

(quoted from post at 19:47:24 06/16/17) To get the oil pan off, you'll have to remove the hood, fuel tank radiator and front end from the engine. Jack up the rear of the tractor before the clutch. The oil pan is part of the support structure so that can't be removed easily. Once you have all that removed you can place the engine on an engine stand after removing clutch and flywheel. You may need to figure out a way to bolt it on the stand if not a standard bolt pattern like a car engine. I did a 205 and had to make a plate to match the bolts on the engine and mounted that to the engine stand.

Larry

Nice picture, wish i had a shop like yours..
I have taken the engine down to block, no problems that i can see, so its off with the oil pan....I have jacked up transmission and used jack stands as safety....I have already used jack stands on fronr part of tractor....Now the unbolting of oil pan and removal to see if i can find any thing wrong under side of engine...
and will have to go from there....thanks for the info Larry...

 

[rockepg]

With the top end off now have you tried to turn the crank?

 

[MF165]

(quoted from post at 08:40:34 06/17/17) With the top end off now have you tried to turn the crank?

I finally got the front off and the oil pan removed...
One of the connecting rod bearings is seized to crankshaft..still have remove bearings and check to see the damage to the crankshaft..connecting rod will have to be replaced..and bearings of course...
Do you have any ideas as to why this one bearing wasn't getting oiled? Rest seem to be fine...? If oil pump was bad then all should have been dry..or if oil level was low....just the one.. It is number two cylinder......thanks.

 

[MF165]

tractor was tedding hay with and old Grimms 4 rows of tines type. Not a hard pull....Not sure how the dude running the tractor did this, but everything he does , he manages to tear up....

 

[rockepg]

Most likely what you will find is something got into the bearing and started to eat it. Dirt or debris of some kind etc. It ground the babbitt, or aluminum, into a slurry and plugged the oil journal preventing oil flow.
A machine shop will have to determine if the crank can be saved or you need a new one. If it's not to bad it can be welded and cut but if the scoring is deep you might need new. Welding can work wonders but it has it's limits like anything else.

 

[MF165]

(quoted from post at 05:58:15 06/18/17) Most likely what you will find is something got into the bearing and started to eat it. Dirt or debris of some kind etc. It ground the babbitt, or aluminum, into a slurry and plugged the oil journal preventing oil flow.
A machine shop will have to determine if the crank can be saved or you need a new one. If it's not to bad it can be welded and cut but if the scoring is deep you might need new. Welding can work wonders but it has it's limits like anything else.

I found that whoever was in the engine last had put the bottom bearing in backwards..wonder it ran at all....
I believe that i will have to have a new crankshaft and while i am into it, I might as well do a rebuild new rods,bearings,rings,etc..the whole works......to the block anyway..\ Thanks for all your help....Mike