Pertronics 12 volt conversion

usedcarguy

Member
OK....getting around to putting the beast back together. I have a 1950 8N side mount. Purchased a pertronics module and 12 V conversion kit from
this site a few months back. Is it a good idea to bypass the ballast resistor or should I look into hooking up a automotive 30A relay to get full
benefit of the new system? Still need to hook up new lights....and of course a cell phone charger outlet.
 
A sidemount distributor did not come with a ballast resistor. The 12v conversion kit should have a 12v coil, i.e., a coil with 3.25 ohms or more of internal resistance.
75 Tips
 
Thanks, Bruce. I tore it down to nothing a few months ago.....couldnt remember if there was a resistor thrown into the trash heap of history or not.
 
Bruce stated the correct info. The OEM 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR was ONLY used with the FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR, '39 - '50. When thE ANGLE (SIDE) MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR was released, the Ballast Resistor became obsolete and the new side mt only used a junction block, p/n 8NNN-14458. Many fellas confuse the Ballast Resistor with the junction block and also if they add an external resistor in the circuit because they don't know how to wire a 12V system correctly. Guys get in trouble with their 6V setup, think they need to go to 12V, then get that all mucked up, so then assume (wrongly) the next step is to go to EI. As our late Sparkie Meister Dell always said ...if it won't start on 6V, what make you think it will on 12V??? Also, realize EI only replaces the need to use breaker points. Good for the electronically challenged and/or guys who don't have the patience to read the manuals, but know too if you wire one thing incorrectly with EI, you will fry the EI unit - a costly repair job. Perhaps this is why you had issues with the OEM 6V/POS GRN system as is the case with many. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring regardless if 6V or 12V. It doesn't matter which system you want to use, just be certain you know what you are doing and you do it correctly. There are NO FORD manuals that detail the correct way to wire the 6V/POS GRN setup to a 12V conversion. Only s few gurus have created documents for correct wiring methods. One fella, Jesse Morris, created his WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR document. Kevin LaRue also did sketches on 12V 1-Wire and 3-Wire Alternators. Best to invest in the original Owners manuals so you see the correct 6V setups and all the other systems to do PM on your tractor. There are but only one or maybe two correct ways to wire the 6V/POS GRN systems, and a hundred or more ways to wire them incorrectly, 12V especially. Here is the correct information on the FORD TRACTOR wiring systems:

NOTE: ALL Models used the FORD 6V/POS GRN Electrical System until the Diesel Models in 1957. The diesels used a 12V battery, a 12V Generator, and a 12V Voltage Regulator. 12V is always wired a a NEG GRN They still made gasoline models as 6V units. The 3rd most neglected part of electrical system failure is the lack of a fan belt tensioning bracket need to charge the battery plus operate the water pump correctly. You need proper fan belt tension regardless if using a GEN or an ALT otherwise you will never charge the battery. ALL 9N & 2N Models used a 1-Wire GEN with the ROUNDCAN CUTOUT. The Cutout is NOT the Solenoid. ALL 9N & 2N Starter Motors used a 6V, 1-Wire Unit with NO RELAY (SOLENOID). Beginning with 8N Model in 1947, the STARTER MOTOR now was a 3-Wire Unit with a RELAY (SOLENOID) fastened to the barrel of the starter, and now used a Voltage Regulator thru '64. BTW, starter motors don't care if 6V or 12V so don't think you need to swap yours out to 12V when going that way.


1939 thru 1950 = Front Mount Distributor; 6V Square Can Coil; 1-Wire. 9N-12250 Ballast Resistor required regardless if using 6V or 12V. Front MT points set at .015 and timing set per manual on your bench, BUT, mount it wrong on engine and you destroy the base. ALL FORDS use the 1,2,4,3 Firing Order. ALL N's use the CCW
rotation order. Beginning with the NAA, and all thereafter, rotation was now CW. With a front mount unit and doing a 12V conversion, if using the original 6V coil, you need to add an external 1-OHM resistor in-line in the coil circuit. swap out the 6V coil to a verified 12V coil and delete the extra resistor.


ORIGINAL 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR, USED ONLY WITH THE FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:
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9N-10505-B CUTOUT:
U2VXum1l.jpg


FRONT MOUNT FIRING ORDER:
xlChOv7l.jpg

8N WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR, 6V & THE 12V CONVERSION:
TBC19a5m.jpg
noSTej6m.jpg
3XguzBIm.jpg

8N w/SIDE MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR USING A 6V COIL, NOTE INLINE 1-OHM RESISTOR:
2KkQjBam.jpg
XRLi3vSm.jpg





8N & UP 3-WIRE STARTER MOTOR w/RELAY:
arCFdgnm.jpg
Jl9V2qhm.jpg

DELCO 10SI 3-WIRE ALTERNATOR WIRING:
F2sVx3Om.jpg



Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 21:28:19 04/08/23) OK....getting around to putting the beast back together. I have a 1950 8N side mount. Purchased a pertronics module and 12 V conversion kit from
this site a few months back. Is it a good idea to bypass the ballast resistor or should I look into hooking up a automotive 30A relay to get full
benefit of the new system?

i don't know about six volt systems, but with 12 volt, pertronix advises to use no resistors inline, whether OEM or aftermarket addons.

in any case, zero is how many resistors you should have in a side-mount to begin with, so you're all set :)

as for "guys who don't have the patience to read the manuals"...

jmo, but also watch out for guys who don't have the patience to read the posts they reply to.
 

Resistance is resistance unless someone can show it differs : ).

The first few Pertronics I installed on Farmalls with a 12V system I used a 6V coil and resistor. I never had any issues with them. I guess the answer is if you have to ask the question go with the coil that has the resistance built into it they recommend.

A relay is not needed but if it makes you feel good goferit.
 
I converted my 8N to 12V and pertronix EI. My coil came without resistor build in so I had to use the white one (see the diagram) Petronix installation was easy and straight forward. What's funny lately my tractor will just die suddenly like it ran out of gas. So I took all the fuel filters out and cleaned them good. Still it won't start with 2 gallons of gas in it. Fuel tank was old and have a lot of sediment inside. Decided to just replace it with new one. Since I was doing that I decided to get a new sediment bowl and fuel line(old one was bent so many times by previous owner that it wasn't looking right). After I did all that the tractor still won't start. So I thought to myself it must be something electrical then. I start chasing all the wires and found that one of the wires by that resistor came loose and that's why it won't start. Hopefully I haven't damaged anything while keep trying to start it without that resistor connected.
mvphoto104570.jpg


This post was edited by KristofMI on 04/12/2023 at 05:44 am.
 
(quoted from post at 08:44:05 04/12/23) Hopefully I haven't damaged anything while keep trying to start it without that resistor connected.
mvphoto104570.jpg


This post was edited by KristofMI on 04/12/2023 at 05:44 am.

no. pertronix will tell you to get rid of that resistor anyway.
 
Really? I actually never ask them about it so I just left it there.
I purchased mine from steiner and their site says that I need to use the resistor


mvphoto104576.jpg



This post was edited by KristofMI on 04/12/2023 at 07:47 am.
 
KristofMI, without detailed knowledge or measurements, no one can say with any certainty that you need or don't need a resistor. Almost all widely inclusive blanket statements are wrong. One size seldom fits all.
You did what seller advised & if you didn't and burned up the parts you bought from them, they likely would not replace same.
 
(quoted from post at 10:38:07 04/12/23) Really? I actually never ask them about it so I just left it there.
I purchased mine from steiner and their site says that I need to use the resistor


mvphoto104576.jpg



This post was edited by KristofMI on 04/12/2023 at 07:47 am.

well, you could ask steiner then. i tend to believe a product's manufacturer is more likely to have accurate info about that product than a reseller would :)

and yes, really. i've never talked about this with steiner, but i have talked about it with pertronix. why not call both of them and ask?
 
well, you could ask steiner then. i tend to believe a product's manufacturer is more likely to have accurate info about that product than a reseller would :)

and yes, really. i've never talked about this with steiner, but i have talked about it with pertronix. why not call both of them and ask?
Which coil should I use on the Pertronix installed on a 601 134cu in?
 
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