Pickup A/C question

[john in la]

1998 F150
A/C works but is getting worse and worse as the days past.
While working on another problem yesterday I notice a oil wet spot on the hoses coming from the compressor.
Not one to really believe in stop leak I think it best to replace the entire hose assembly.

So questions are......
While I have the hose off should I go ahead and turn a easy straight forward job into a challenge that requires special tool and replace the accumulator (dryer) and orifice tube also?

A/C works well with a full charge; still has some freon in the system; and system has never been open; but it is 16 years old.

If you answer yes to above question is the variable orifice valve worth the extra $20 over a OEM orifice tube?

I am thinking replace the hose and hope for the best. At 16 years old you never know when the compressor is going to give out forcing me to replace the dryer and orifice tube again but looking from advise from experienced a/c men.

 

[Sean Feeney]

Buy the AC PRO kit $30 bucks and see what happens like you said 16 years old,

 

[HenryO]

Ford uses O rings in their connections. Being 16 yeaRS OLD I WOULD PUT A CAN OF A/C Pro with leak sealer that states "seals rubber" or "seals hoses. Many time the old hoses leak thrugh the ocvering. I had a 1995 Ford 350 that I did this with and all I need to do afterward is add 1 can per year for at least the next 6 years until I gave it to a Church which still does the same. JMT Henry

 

[john in la]

The rubber part of the hose and the O-rings are not leaking.

It is either where it conversions from metal line to rubber hose or more likely the metal line has a pin hole in it.
Real hard to tell as it has just started leaking but the fan is blowing the oil/Freon around on the tube.
Both the metal lines are wet from the manifold where it hooks to the compressor to where it conversions to rubber hose.
So I do not think it is where the manifolds bolts to the compressor either as that is down wind of the metal tube.

 

[showcrop]

Two things, since the receiver-dryer on my '93 Ford tractor was found to be badly blocked about five years ago, and I have read on this forum about numerous others being blocked, I would replace it. Second, this spring it appeared that the seal had blown on the compressor due to the spray pattern of the refrigerant, but the shop said that there was a relief valve in that area, and they found no leak and it is still blowing 40 degree air.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Since you say it cools well with a full charge, you MIGHT get by with just replacing the hose IF you have good vacuum pump to evacuate the system.I would not change the orifice tube unless a problem indicated it needed to be.BUT I would definitely replace the drier/accumulator.The desiccant in the drier protects the system from moisture internally.Moisture can freeze at the orifice tube,causing loss of cooling, and, mixed with refrigerant, creates acid which corrodes metal inside the system,ruining it. Mark

 

[casecollectorsc]

Don't put any leak-sealer in the system, your problems will only begin then.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Replacing the dryer is certainly a good idea. The variable orifice is, I think, really intended for R12-R134A conversions, but where you live you need all the help you can get. If you spend a lot of time in slow traffic, I'd say get it. If most of your driving is on the highway I don't think I'd bother.

A while back a bought a micron gauge, which is the only way to tell if you've pulled a good vacuum. It was a real eye-opener for me. Highly recommended if you intend to do much A/C work in the future.

 

[Tom vertiz]

I would just fix what is wrong. Also how much Time ahead are you? To change the receiver dryer and orrifice. All you need to do is recover the system and pull a vacuum again. Even if I didn't have the equipment for ac I would only fix the hose.

PS I work for a construction company and do ac stuff all the time.

 

[GarryinNC]

Add some R-134 until the suction line is good and sweaty all the way back to the compressor (my crude but effective rule of thumb). Run it a while and see how it does. You might not have to add any more for a year. Have seen it work out that way more than once. Plain old 134 with no fancy additives is only $5-$6/12oz can.
Make sure your fan clutch works properly and does not 'coast' when you shut off engine hot. If it is still cooling at all now, you probably don't have much of a leak. Have you had to add much over the years? Wipe off the hoses and see what accumulates back on them. If you had a 'pinhole leak', I think it would empty the system in a day or two. I am sure that Louisiana climate will test an A/C system!

 

[M-MAN]

If I'm not mistaken you'll be open to that orfice so why not change a $10 part while you're there. It will be dirty.

 

[john in la]

No the orifice tube is in the other line but if I change the dryer I will have to remove all the other stuff in the way so I would have better access at that line.

 

[john in la]

I have a set of gauges. I have access to a vacuum pump and dry nitrogen threw my daughters FIL but I do not know that he has a micron gauge.

Since I only work on my personal stuff it would be to big of a expense if he does not have it.

Thanks for the advise.

 

[john in la]

Truck sat for 2 years until I put a new motor in it for my dad last May. Put 2 cans in it then for the first time.

Worked good this year then developed a slow leak. I thought it was a can a year type of thing when I added 1 can about 2-3 weeks ago.
It is back to starting short cycle now so it is leaking a can over a few weeks.
It still cools in AM or on rainy days but does not work good enough in heat of day so it is about a can low right now and you can definitely see a wet spot on the metal part of the hoses by compressor.

 

[john in la]

The hose is a simple replace. You can get to the fittings without removing anything.
The dryer and orifice tube is a different story as you need to remove all the battery wire cluster off the firewall to even see it good enough to work on.

That's why I was so on the fence about replacing all of it. Will add several hours to the job; and it would cool good for at least a couple of weeks as it sits if I fill it with Freon till it leaks another can of Freon.

It still has some Freon in it as it cools so so in the early morning.

 

[john in la]

Yes I know leak sealer will only cause more problems.
That is why I am gona replace at least the hose.
Still on the fence about the dryer and tube.

 

[john in la]

Yes I have access to nitrogen flush and a good vacuum pump.
I think if I go to the trouble to remove the dryer the orifice tube is a given as it would then be easy access to the tube.

Thanks for the help.

 

[4play]

I wouldn't worry about the accumulator but I would replace the orifice tube (bare minimum you could clean it if not damaged), just get the OEM fixed orifice tube and be done. With a fixed orifice tube there is nothing to break or fail. The only thing that can happen is the small screen getting clogged with debris, which would happen on any tube design.

The orifice tube is easy to replace on those trucks, the accumulator, not too bad but more difficult, and not in the way of the tube

 

[jimg.allentown]

Well, everybody has to chime in with one of the "old wives tales" type of fix. Seems that if it fixed one for BillyBob a few years back, it will fix every system since.....

My suggestion:
If the hose itself is leaking, I would replace it. Pinpointing whether it is the hose or the o-ring in the fitting can be a bit tricky. In any case, it would be wise to replace the O-rings at all of the fittings with the proper size and composition replacements.
Replacing the orifice would be a matter of personal choice. It has no moving parts, and is not prone to failure.
Replacing the receiver/dryer would be a good idea given the age, and opening the system. It contains a dessicant to remove moisture, and is recommended to be replaced when the system has been opened.