Pipe plug

[rrlund]

Inaccessible how? Is the drawbar in the way? Take it off. Square it up with the grinder again, get a 12 point socket on it with a breaker bar on it. Put a floor jack under it so it can't slip off and use a piece of pipe on the breaker bar.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

A fellow I know ruined the sump of a1952 Ferguson TE20 . Sump plug was corroded, plug in good shape . He used a 6 foot length of scaffold tube on a socket and bar . The alloy base broke in a circular piece about the size of a saucer around the plug . What was it that Archimedes said about levers ?

 

[tomturkey]

Final report: removed as much gear lube as the suction gizzmo would. Then put some flame to it. Oil was boiling, plug got somewhat red. What little bit of stub I had rounded off, so I cut the end flat with the die grinder and drilled a hole. the remaining lube mostly drained out, I put the flame to the plug with a hole, the oil is still cooling enuff that the plug won't get cherry red. I tried an extractor, no go, flame again, extractor again no go. I drilled the hole a bit bigger, ofcourse I had missed center with my original hole. so with the larger bit I was getting close to threads on one side. Put the flame to it again, decided to use the candle wax, its worked for me before, went to a larger extractor. AT last it moved and spun out of the hole. Seems like no matter what, when you work on old iron, some thing is going to give you a devil of a time. Again to ALL thanks for your help. Got the new gear in waiting on a couple of seals and I will put it back together. Another installment on my million dollar education, one skinned knuckle at a time. lol gobble

 

[Janicholson]

I never reuse brake fluid that I vacuum out when bleeding the brakes". It is just not that expensive to always refill the reservoir with new. IMHO. but thanks, I do clean it with brake clean and air.

I agree, there is zero need. I would use a different hose on the intake to the little pump. Jim

 

[JOCCO]

Tom that is great news. so, the extractor worked? Get a good quality plug and use some never seize.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Not the same as your issue for a plug. On my 856 The drain plugs were so tight I could not get them out till I put a jack under the ratchet and put pressure on them so the square would not slip out then could get them to unscrew Once out replaced plugs with new ones and dind't tighten like it was the end of life it it was not that tight again. Just drill it out so the rest of the oil drains then heat the plug and let cool. The oil will seep into the threads and probably come out or just drill it out till almost gone and it will probably unscrew with a left handed drill.

 

[caterpillar guy]

When out run a magnet in the hole and around the threads will get the shavings in the threads out so they turn smooth and don't leak. We found that fine pieces of material in the threads make them turn rough and will seep sometimes.

 

[miangus]

Go ahead warm it up, let it cool and warm it up again. No need to get it red hot. Use a pipe wrench, if all else fails drill it out as others have suggested.

 

[Brown David]

Lol at the advice given after the issue has been resolved.

Why don't people read through the thread before posting? I really don't understand the logic of not reading completely before posting.

This isn't the only place where that happens either.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

I have a drain pug on a Farmall H that drains the transmission. The previous owner/owners have this pipe plug all rounded off and knarled up. I tried squaring it up a bit with a die grinder to no avail. It sits in a very inaccesable space, can't get a good hold on it with any thing. Normally I would put the heat to something stuck, but with a couple gallons of gear oi right behind it I'm a bit concerned about a fire. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.........gobble

Understand you got the plug out, but to assuage your concerns about fire for future projects...

If you're worried about igniting the oil on the other side of the plug, don't be. That's not how fire works. Just like with gas and diesel it's the fumes that ignite, not the liquid. The fumes are on the other side of a wall of cast iron with no way for the flames to reach them.

Oil that seeped through and is on the surface you're heating... that can catch fire obviously, but not the oil inside the tractor unless you get things VERY hot. So hot the tractor would be liquid.

 

[tomturkey]

Barnyard: once I drilled the hole in the pug. I was getting a bit of flame thrower action as the oil was dripping out. I am sure the flash point of gear oil is pretty high. but no one wants to burn down the shop so, caution id always warranted gobble

 

[T in NE]

Not the same as your issue for a plug. On my 856 The drain plugs were so tight I could not get them out till I put a jack under the ratchet and put pressure on them so the square would not slip out then could get them to unscrew Once out replaced plugs with new ones and dind't tighten like it was the end of life it it was not that tight again. Just drill it out so the rest of the oil drains then heat the plug and let cool. The oil will seep into the threads and probably come out or just drill it out till almost gone and it will probably unscrew with a left handed drill.

If it has the plugs with the recessed ⅜ or ½ square that a rachet fits in, get a set of pipe plug sockets.
I don't know why, but when the female square plug gets chewed up so a ratchet won't stay in it, the pipe plug sockets will back it right out.
I got online and bought a ⅜ and a ½ for the truck gearboxes the first time I ran into it and the boss borrowed a socket.
I checked the hubs on the 6150 for the first time a couple weeks ago, the previous owner had them so tight, I had to use my 2 foot breaker bar.